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I'm going to be living in new zealand for the next 6 months or longer, but I'm struggling to find much climbing information on the internet. Can anybody reccomend me any good spots to look out for and maybe a decent guidebook? I'm going to be in auckland first so anywhere near there would be great, I tend to climb at about VS outdoors and 6a+/6b indoors. Thanks.
In reply to samual:
I'm so jealous.
We spent a month last Sept in New Zealand travelling from the north to south island, and I loved it over there. We did take our climbing gear, but didn't get climbing anywhere on the north island. We had planned to climb somewhere near lake Taupo, but when we got there we ended up getting snowed upon for a few days.
If you're heading to the South Island at some point, I would definately recommend Paynes Ford in Golden Bay, the spectacular Castle Hill, and the crags near Wanaka.
We used this website; http://www.freeclimb.co.nz/index.html
but also have a look at this, may give you a few ideas; http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=24
hope you have a great time.
I'm so jealous.
We spent a month last Sept in New Zealand travelling from the north to south island, and I loved it over there. We did take our climbing gear, but didn't get climbing anywhere on the north island. We had planned to climb somewhere near lake Taupo, but when we got there we ended up getting snowed upon for a few days.
If you're heading to the South Island at some point, I would definately recommend Paynes Ford in Golden Bay, the spectacular Castle Hill, and the crags near Wanaka.
We used this website; http://www.freeclimb.co.nz/index.html
but also have a look at this, may give you a few ideas; http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=24
hope you have a great time.
In reply to samual:
Sorry this is not quite what you after (for Auckland), but I can really recommend:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Australasia/New_Zealand/Canterbury/Port_...
if you are down in Christchurch at some point.
What's more, by the looks of it, that website might prove to be a useful resource.
Enjoy - it's a great place, of course.
Sorry this is not quite what you after (for Auckland), but I can really recommend:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Australasia/New_Zealand/Canterbury/Port_...
if you are down in Christchurch at some point.
What's more, by the looks of it, that website might prove to be a useful resource.
Enjoy - it's a great place, of course.
In reply to samual: I really enjoyed this place...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2237
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2237
In reply to samual:
Hey there, I'll be moving out there too, for a year or two. Don't know any good spots yet as I've never been before, but I bought this book recently from Cotswolds.
http://tiny.cc/1bq6xjewe3
It's not actually a guide book as such, but a crag guide the describes all the main rock climbing crags in New Zealand, with access info, climbing style maps etc.. I figured I could use this to decide where to go and buy the relevant guide books out there.
I'm flying out to Auckland in December. Sounds like we're climbing about the same level, if you fancy hooking up out there just send me an email.
Have fun,
Mike
Hey there, I'll be moving out there too, for a year or two. Don't know any good spots yet as I've never been before, but I bought this book recently from Cotswolds.
http://tiny.cc/1bq6xjewe3
It's not actually a guide book as such, but a crag guide the describes all the main rock climbing crags in New Zealand, with access info, climbing style maps etc.. I figured I could use this to decide where to go and buy the relevant guide books out there.
I'm flying out to Auckland in December. Sounds like we're climbing about the same level, if you fancy hooking up out there just send me an email.
Have fun,
Mike
In reply to samual:
There is enjoyable climbing on the North Island at Wharepapa (sport) and Whanganui (trad with the occasional bolt - or at least it was 5 years ago) on rhyolite tuff. Whanganui is a very beautiful spot though difficult to get to.
In Auckland itself there is strangely-situated basalt climbing on Mt Eden quarry - on the playing fields of a posh-looking grammar school.
The South Island venues mentioned by other posters are good too, but a very long way from Auckland!
A useful book would be Climbing New Zealand by Alastair Lee, who sometimes posts on these forums and may be able to give you more info. You could also try exploring this website: www.climb.co.nz.
There is enjoyable climbing on the North Island at Wharepapa (sport) and Whanganui (trad with the occasional bolt - or at least it was 5 years ago) on rhyolite tuff. Whanganui is a very beautiful spot though difficult to get to.
In Auckland itself there is strangely-situated basalt climbing on Mt Eden quarry - on the playing fields of a posh-looking grammar school.
The South Island venues mentioned by other posters are good too, but a very long way from Auckland!
A useful book would be Climbing New Zealand by Alastair Lee, who sometimes posts on these forums and may be able to give you more info. You could also try exploring this website: www.climb.co.nz.
In reply to samual:
Try http://mojozone.co.nz/node?page=4 and the NZ Alpine Club http://alpineclub.org.nz/. Have fun you lucky bu**er.
Try http://mojozone.co.nz/node?page=4 and the NZ Alpine Club http://alpineclub.org.nz/. Have fun you lucky bu**er.
In reply to samual:
Wharepapa South as already mentioned is a good weekend destination from Auckland. Ti Point is about 1.5 hours away north. Not sure of guidebooks sorry, but the Alpine Club website is definitely worth a look - there's some guides listed as pdfs on the website for some of the areas (I think).
(yep found it - http://alpineclub.org.nz/product?filter0=59 )
Here's a couple of other sites to look at:
http://www.climb.co.nz/Places/Wharepapa/Wharepap-Climbing.htm
http://www.freeclimb.co.nz/
Also Extreme Edge is one of the bigger (or again used to be) climbing walls in Auckland where you might get some more info/hook up with other climbers?
http://www.extremeedge.co.nz/
I see now there's 3...used to always go to the one in Morrin Road, Panmure.....
Hope you have a good time
Rebecca
Wharepapa South as already mentioned is a good weekend destination from Auckland. Ti Point is about 1.5 hours away north. Not sure of guidebooks sorry, but the Alpine Club website is definitely worth a look - there's some guides listed as pdfs on the website for some of the areas (I think).
(yep found it - http://alpineclub.org.nz/product?filter0=59 )
Here's a couple of other sites to look at:
http://www.climb.co.nz/Places/Wharepapa/Wharepap-Climbing.htm
http://www.freeclimb.co.nz/
Also Extreme Edge is one of the bigger (or again used to be) climbing walls in Auckland where you might get some more info/hook up with other climbers?
http://www.extremeedge.co.nz/
I see now there's 3...used to always go to the one in Morrin Road, Panmure.....
Hope you have a good time
Rebecca
In reply to samual:
I spent about a month climbing on South Island about 10 years ago. Its a funny sort of place - obviously it has a big rep for the outdoors, but that doesn't quite hold up to scrutiny in terms of rock climbing.
Don't get me wrong, there's some great climbing there, lots of Peak sized stuff, world class bouldering and plenty of Alpine scale stuff.
What it seems to lack is something on the North Wales / Lake District scale. Sizeable areas with classic multi-pitch cragging. If they exist, I didn't find them.
There's been a lot of development in recent years I believe, Pete Oxley has moved there I hear, no doubt there's lots of bolting going on.
I spent about a month climbing on South Island about 10 years ago. Its a funny sort of place - obviously it has a big rep for the outdoors, but that doesn't quite hold up to scrutiny in terms of rock climbing.
Don't get me wrong, there's some great climbing there, lots of Peak sized stuff, world class bouldering and plenty of Alpine scale stuff.
What it seems to lack is something on the North Wales / Lake District scale. Sizeable areas with classic multi-pitch cragging. If they exist, I didn't find them.
There's been a lot of development in recent years I believe, Pete Oxley has moved there I hear, no doubt there's lots of bolting going on.
In reply to jonny2vests:
Part of me is a tad disappointed that nobody has risen to my bait that NZ climbing (South Island only, and not the bouldering) is, well, mostly average. I thought there'd be a multlevel defense mounted, handbags at dawn etc etc. I'm quite willing to be corrected, but it seems judging by the response I was right.
Part of me is a tad disappointed that nobody has risen to my bait that NZ climbing (South Island only, and not the bouldering) is, well, mostly average. I thought there'd be a multlevel defense mounted, handbags at dawn etc etc. I'm quite willing to be corrected, but it seems judging by the response I was right.
In reply to jonny2vests:
>NZ climbing (South Island only, and not the bouldering) is, well, mostly average.
I'd say it's mostly horrific, with some average routes here and there.
>NZ climbing (South Island only, and not the bouldering) is, well, mostly average.
I'd say it's mostly horrific, with some average routes here and there.
In reply to jonny2vests:
I just thought 'He didn't go to the Darran Mountains, South Wye or Mt Somers"
I just thought 'He didn't go to the Darran Mountains, South Wye or Mt Somers"
Thanks for the help everyone, a lot more then I expected. Some of the websites will be a great help. Mike if I'm still in auckland december time I'd be up for a climb. I'll send you a message closer to the time.
In reply to KiwiPrincess:
I did go to the Darrans actually. Brilliant stuff, but quite Alpine. Not been to the other two, North Island perhaps?
I did go to the Darrans actually. Brilliant stuff, but quite Alpine. Not been to the other two, North Island perhaps?
In reply to Hibachi:
Climbed out in NZ a few years ago, picked up a guidebook which I'm pretty sure was called Rock Deluxe while out there.
If the slopers at Payne's Ford aren't to your liking, there are some really enjoyable bolted climbs near Pohara, on limestone seacliffs. Put up by the old guy who used to run Hangdog Camp, he was a real Deadhead so lots of routes named after Grateful Dead songs. Might not be "world class climbing" but a lovely laid back area with good hippy vibe.
Climbed out in NZ a few years ago, picked up a guidebook which I'm pretty sure was called Rock Deluxe while out there.
If the slopers at Payne's Ford aren't to your liking, there are some really enjoyable bolted climbs near Pohara, on limestone seacliffs. Put up by the old guy who used to run Hangdog Camp, he was a real Deadhead so lots of routes named after Grateful Dead songs. Might not be "world class climbing" but a lovely laid back area with good hippy vibe.
In reply to jonny2vests:
Mt somers is south of Christchurch, again a few hours walk in to the hut and another hour to the climbing but awesome trad.( for NZ)
South Wye is In Queenstown it is like the lower Wye creek but has more multi pitch but is another hour up hill.
Mt somers is south of Christchurch, again a few hours walk in to the hut and another hour to the climbing but awesome trad.( for NZ)
South Wye is In Queenstown it is like the lower Wye creek but has more multi pitch but is another hour up hill.
In reply to KiwiPrincess:
Ok. I, like many other visiting climbers had the Rock Climbing in NZ guide. From memory, I don't remember anything listed for Queenstown, so we bought this local guide which wasn't great and ended up at a local crag (Sunshine Bay?). South Wye sounds like it would have been much better (judging by your photos).
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> Mt somers is south of Christchurch, again a few hours walk in to the hut and another hour to the climbing but awesome trad.( for NZ)
>
> South Wye is In Queenstown it is like the lower Wye creek but has more multi pitch but is another hour up hill.
>
> Mt somers is south of Christchurch, again a few hours walk in to the hut and another hour to the climbing but awesome trad.( for NZ)
>
> South Wye is In Queenstown it is like the lower Wye creek but has more multi pitch but is another hour up hill.
Ok. I, like many other visiting climbers had the Rock Climbing in NZ guide. From memory, I don't remember anything listed for Queenstown, so we bought this local guide which wasn't great and ended up at a local crag (Sunshine Bay?). South Wye sounds like it would have been much better (judging by your photos).
In reply to jonny2vests:
Wye creek is the one. Nice views too. Sunshine bay is close to the road but very average climbing. There is a new Queenstown guide which is much better.
I guess that is the Problem with NZ any where good is usually quite a walk, Other than Castle hill etc, so you need to have the time up your sleeve, which dosn't really fit with a short holiday.
Wye creek is the one. Nice views too. Sunshine bay is close to the road but very average climbing. There is a new Queenstown guide which is much better.
I guess that is the Problem with NZ any where good is usually quite a walk, Other than Castle hill etc, so you need to have the time up your sleeve, which dosn't really fit with a short holiday.
In reply to KiwiPrincess:
Ok. I'm making notes. There's a reasonable chance I might end up working either at the University of Otago or of Christchurch.
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> Wye creek is the one. Nice views too. Sunshine bay is close to the road but very average climbing. There is a new Queenstown guide which is much better.
>
> I guess that is the Problem with NZ any where good is usually quite a walk, Other than Castle hill etc, so you need to have the time up your sleeve, which dosn't really fit with a short holiday.
>
> Wye creek is the one. Nice views too. Sunshine bay is close to the road but very average climbing. There is a new Queenstown guide which is much better.
>
> I guess that is the Problem with NZ any where good is usually quite a walk, Other than Castle hill etc, so you need to have the time up your sleeve, which dosn't really fit with a short holiday.
Ok. I'm making notes. There's a reasonable chance I might end up working either at the University of Otago or of Christchurch.
In reply to jonny2vests: Hey mate, good luck for your time in NZ. I'm a lifelong resident of Nelson and have been lucky enough to climb at Castle Hill, Christchurch's Port Hills as well as the sea cliffs on the West Coast and my local favourite; Paynes Ford. Unfortunately I can't give you much of a heads up on Queenstown or Wanaka, but I hear really good things about Wanaka at least. Although i'm a bit biased, I really do think Paynes Ford is a top contestant for South Islands best crag. It's never let me down. Plenty of climbs, (300+) i've been visiting Paynes for years and still have more than half still left to climb. There is a wide range of grades to climb from, the predominant average is about grade 22 (Aus), ranging from grades 13 to 30. 30. The rock is all limestone, and Pohara- (which is 30 mins drive from Takaka (the location of Paynes Ford))- also has some great limestone routes. It's less developed, and in places quite chossy, but the style of climbing is a refreshing change, more overhangs and a different feel. If you were looking for a good guidebook, I would highly recommend 'Golden Bay Climbs' (Best for Paynes Ford) or if you were looking for a general south island book (including Castle Hill which is handy) 'Southern Rock' is good too. You can buy GBC from Nelson at Altitude, or from Hangdog climbers camp next to Paynes Ford Reserve. South Island Rock you should be able to find anywhere in NZ. Be warned, I get alot of mixed reviews from tourists about Castle Hill. Those who appreciate the challenge of slopers and technical feet placements, smearing and some rather desperate body positions will love it, but if you're used to an infinity of crimpers and slots, you might be in for a shock. There are definitely some hard routes, but it's a different style of climbing you learn to appreciate, and there are so many boulders, you can end up spending an entire day just projecting one boulder and forget to check out the whole area. It's happened many times.. The port hills are interesting too, there are some hard routes up there and some good multi pitch, lead and mixed climbing to go with it. Best of all, it's directly overlooking christchurch city, if you were keen enough, you could bike up there from town. Absolutely worth a visit. The West Coast is best described as.. well.. weather dependant I guess, it's all trad I believe, but if you miraculously get a sunny day and have plenty of mosquito repellant like I did,, the climbing is both adrenalzing and photogenic. It's a place that can be surreal on a sunny day yet nightmarish on the contrary. so if you happened to be passing by (visiting Fox & Frans Josef Glacier for example) and the weather was good, check it out. Sorry I haven't been climbing in the North so can't help there, but if in doubt, most cities have an indoor gym to go crazy on, and you'll meet other internationals and locals who are looking to car pool for trips to the local crags, so meeting people is easy. Plenty of other stuff going on around in the South Island, river rafting, Able Tasman sea kayaking, mountainbiking, caving, mountaineering, motorcross, bungie jumping, skydiving and paragliding. If there's something you want to know, just ask. I've completed a diploma in Adventure Tourism so if there's something interesting in my reigion, I know about it! Hope my ramble helps if not interests someone. See you guys out there! :P
In reply to Jared Trewavas:
Re: Paynes ford- I hear that Hang dog camp is temporarily closed.It should be open by christmas and there are plenty of other camps in town but you will need transport.
Re: Paynes ford- I hear that Hang dog camp is temporarily closed.It should be open by christmas and there are plenty of other camps in town but you will need transport.
In reply to Hibachi:
IMPORTANT!!!
Hi Hibachi,
Buy as much outdoor equipment as you can in the UK or Europe and ship or take it with you to NZ. They do not make much in the way of gear so everything is imported and costs an extortionate amount to buy. E.g.A pair of La Sportiva Miura VS shoes are £120 in the shops in the UK expect to pay the best part of $400 in NZ. The same is for ropes, trad or sport gear. Boulder mats are also hideously expensive. If you fly by Emirates (as we have when we visited in January) you have an unlimited number of checked in bags allowed (weight limit is 30kg weight for economy, 40kg for business or first class) and they accepted out metolius fat bastard mat without question.
If you want to use this to your advantage and you are planning to carry on your trip elsewhere you can easily sell your stuff in Christchurch for a good price.
If you are at Christchurch then The Port Hills are your closest venue, these are chossy, loose and boldly bolted if bolted at all. The earthquake recently knocked a load of routes down and Castle Crag. The Cave in town is a cavern in a local park that contains huge steep roof routes from around 7b to 8c however its only climable in the summer due to seepage.
If you do stay in ChCh then its well worth the trip to Castle Hill Basin, the bouldering is world class. Quantum Field is the one most people complain about as its utterly alien to any form of climbing you would have done before. Spittle Hill and Wuthering Heights are probably your best bet to begin with. If you get the chance, try to get to Flock Hill. The climbing there is utterly world class.
Castle Hill Crags: Spittle Hill, Quantum Field, Rambandit Gully & Wuthering Heights
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=475107&id=679735250&l=fb3fb8a...
Flock Hill:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=478014&id=679735250&l=a9dc1af...
Wanaka & Jardines (Queenstown):
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=434912&id=679735250&l=a73be42...
Lastly, I have just done 9 months climbing in NZ and i'm now in Oz. If you need tips or help give me an email on Alexander_Wilkinson@hotmail.co.uk
IMPORTANT!!!
Hi Hibachi,
Buy as much outdoor equipment as you can in the UK or Europe and ship or take it with you to NZ. They do not make much in the way of gear so everything is imported and costs an extortionate amount to buy. E.g.A pair of La Sportiva Miura VS shoes are £120 in the shops in the UK expect to pay the best part of $400 in NZ. The same is for ropes, trad or sport gear. Boulder mats are also hideously expensive. If you fly by Emirates (as we have when we visited in January) you have an unlimited number of checked in bags allowed (weight limit is 30kg weight for economy, 40kg for business or first class) and they accepted out metolius fat bastard mat without question.
If you want to use this to your advantage and you are planning to carry on your trip elsewhere you can easily sell your stuff in Christchurch for a good price.
If you are at Christchurch then The Port Hills are your closest venue, these are chossy, loose and boldly bolted if bolted at all. The earthquake recently knocked a load of routes down and Castle Crag. The Cave in town is a cavern in a local park that contains huge steep roof routes from around 7b to 8c however its only climable in the summer due to seepage.
If you do stay in ChCh then its well worth the trip to Castle Hill Basin, the bouldering is world class. Quantum Field is the one most people complain about as its utterly alien to any form of climbing you would have done before. Spittle Hill and Wuthering Heights are probably your best bet to begin with. If you get the chance, try to get to Flock Hill. The climbing there is utterly world class.
Castle Hill Crags: Spittle Hill, Quantum Field, Rambandit Gully & Wuthering Heights
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=475107&id=679735250&l=fb3fb8a...
Flock Hill:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=478014&id=679735250&l=a9dc1af...
Wanaka & Jardines (Queenstown):
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=434912&id=679735250&l=a73be42...
Lastly, I have just done 9 months climbing in NZ and i'm now in Oz. If you need tips or help give me an email on Alexander_Wilkinson@hotmail.co.uk
In reply to alx: Thanks Alex, your pictures are amazing and are really getting me excited. Good call on the the equipment, heard it was expensive but didn't realise it was quite that price. I'll make room for some extra equipment.
In reply to Hibachi:
Hi Hibachi
I left my heart at Flock Hill, of all the places I have climbed in NZ (and the rest of the world) this is one of best venues I have ever been to. Stay at Flock Hill Lodge a bit up the road. $15 a night to camp and the showers are sublime. The staff are also ace, Amber is also a sports physio, perfect for fixing tweeks and aches!
Do yourself a massive favour, make friends with other NZ climbers (there aren't many, once you know one or two you know all of them by mates mates in NZ) and get them to take you there. There is no topo, the rock is perfect, little or no polish, thousands and thousands of quality problems. You could do a 100 first ascents each day for the rest of your life and never touch the same one twice.
Lastly ChCh is fine after the earthquake, a few streets got flattened but no one was hurt. The warning to stay away is rubbish, as a traveler you can still get what you need from it without any issues.
PS if you decide to buy a van/car from here, get a mechanical check before hand and do not buy anything cheaper than $3,000 as it will cause you more expense and harm than something a bit more $4000-$5000 mark. The Back Packer market is perfect for this
Hi Hibachi
I left my heart at Flock Hill, of all the places I have climbed in NZ (and the rest of the world) this is one of best venues I have ever been to. Stay at Flock Hill Lodge a bit up the road. $15 a night to camp and the showers are sublime. The staff are also ace, Amber is also a sports physio, perfect for fixing tweeks and aches!
Do yourself a massive favour, make friends with other NZ climbers (there aren't many, once you know one or two you know all of them by mates mates in NZ) and get them to take you there. There is no topo, the rock is perfect, little or no polish, thousands and thousands of quality problems. You could do a 100 first ascents each day for the rest of your life and never touch the same one twice.
Lastly ChCh is fine after the earthquake, a few streets got flattened but no one was hurt. The warning to stay away is rubbish, as a traveler you can still get what you need from it without any issues.
PS if you decide to buy a van/car from here, get a mechanical check before hand and do not buy anything cheaper than $3,000 as it will cause you more expense and harm than something a bit more $4000-$5000 mark. The Back Packer market is perfect for this
In reply to Jared Trewavas:
Psssst! He didn't mention that Takaka and Northwards in the South Island has been over run by hippies. Seen on the bog door at Hangdog Camp;
"When do you know you have been at Hang Dog too long?"
"When you ask the rock's permission to climb it...
....
....
and know to walk away when it says no"
Psssst! He didn't mention that Takaka and Northwards in the South Island has been over run by hippies. Seen on the bog door at Hangdog Camp;
"When do you know you have been at Hang Dog too long?"
"When you ask the rock's permission to climb it...
....
....
and know to walk away when it says no"
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