UKC

Hi

Am thinking of doing some big wall climbing, and well even though I've done a quite a few multi-pitch climbs doing trad. I wondered what is the best place to start am thinking of travelling to the states so Yosemite, would certainly be on my list.

What I would like to know is what is the most affordable way of getting there and equipment say for a three week trip. Any recommendations also on routes, I can climb up to E5.

In reply to halo: Bump!

In reply to halo: Fly to San fran then greyhound or Amtrak to merced, then yarts to the valley. Living in camp 4 is $5/night but is best to shareable large tent with others to get around the 7 day limit. There are lots of tricks to get free or cheaper stuff when you are there. Here are a few:
keep your cup or (or find a used one) at the lodge for unlimited refills on coffee and tea
sign the employee clip board at the checkout for 50% off - (don't check the 100% off or you will be asked for Id)
free showers at curry in the wooden building at the far end of the car park - ask for an extra towel at the front desk if you don't have your own
free Internet at curry
buy food outside the park if possible - is way cheaper
free coffee and hot chocolate at the awanhee in the mornings

In reply to halo: Also fly virgin. They allow an extra 23 kg bag free if you say it's sporting equipment

In reply to markalmack: Seriously??? That's brilliant!

In reply to halo:

For your first Big Wall trip I would definitely recommend Yosemite.

I have just come back from a fantastic trip, spending the whole of September in the valley.

As well as lots of other great routes, the highlights were climbing both the Regular Route of NW face of Half Dome and The Nose on El Cap.

I did find the grades quite hard as a whole and don't expect to be climbing the same as in the UK until you get used to the style of climbing.

We camped in Upper Pines for the whole trip which required a bit of subterfuge regarding not getting found out about being in the valley for more than 7 days until the 15th September. The advantage of Upper Pines is that you can drive right up to the pitch which makes it a lot easier for gear sorting etc.

The downside of Upper Pines is that it is used as a bit of a party campsite by large groups. Also expect to constantly be asked "Are you guys climbers?" and then have long chats with non climbers about the climbing. This isn't usually a problem unless you have just come back from a big day (or days) and need to simply eat, drink and crash.

I will certainly be planning another trip to Yosemite for some more big walling.

We met some great people and had some really good laughs both on and off route. Loads of big wall toilet humour which is best not repeated here!

Some tips;

Plan well ahead.

Sort campsite out before you get there.

Use Virgin for the free 23kg sport bag.

Expect to suffer in the heat for the few days.

If you plan to do a big wall - don't give in after the first day. 80% of climbers on The Nose bail during the first day or the morning of the second day. This is often because (we found from chatting with them) that one of the team wasn't up for it as much as the other. Both need to be fully mad for it and up for a bit of suffering!
Some had too much gear and found the hauling hard work (practice, I mean really practice before you go).
Another team of really good climbers bailed because they were wearing very tight climbing shoes and didn't have any trainers for belaying of jugging in.

Always start very early to avoid any possible queues and slower climbers ahead. We started up Half Dome at 12.30am and were at Big Sandy by early afternoon and The Nose at 3.30am. Surprisingly enough there weren't any people ahead of us.

Have fun.

Rich.

In reply to markalmack: Cheers fella for all the info, now am going to address it to my team England!

In reply to halo: I was speaking to a couple of pretty experienced big wall guys the other day, they both said they would recommend going to 'Zion' before Yosemite.

Will

In reply to Richard White: Cheers Rich for your points. Am sure it will be a good trip, my other option was actually Big wall climbing in Norway, you can also currently get flights to Norway one way from £29.00 Inc taxes. Which for Norway is really good.

Which am sure you'll agree is a good price, I was thinking of Kjereg, the rock is Gneis, different to the Yosemite Granite and less wearing on the skin! So I won't feel so trashed, not only that but is cooler too.

In reply to willoates: Zion, Utah hmmm. Could be worth thinking about but Norway is so cheap at the moment, only less hours of daylight.