UKC

You know what it's like, you rush to the crag and start a warm up by traversing the rock in your shoes/trainers. But more often than not, you're slipping off the good edges and getting burnt out by smearing everything. So what is the best approach shoe or trainer (non rock boots) to climb in? Kev

In reply to KH: Salomon Pro Sticky Lows, perfect scrambling/approach shoes

In reply to gwilym:

Montrail D7's are by far the best all round scambling shoe interms of performance and comfort, but the Scarpa lite assent is probally a better shoe for climbing but not as comfy!!!

In reply to KH:

5.10 Cragmasters. If you find any left for sale in this country do let us know.

In reply to KH:

Yep as has been said, it boils down to your style:

Old Skool Craggy: 5.10 Cragmasters
Nu Wave Techy Bouldering Cool: Salomon Pro Sticky Low

I am a cragmaster, nuff said.

I also use hemp rope, wear plus fours and smoke a pipe

Doug

In reply to Ray Von:

Outside in Hathersage have some for £60 smackers....

In reply to KH:

A subject close to my heart – I think the compound on Salomons is a bit hard for climbing in. Cragmasters are sticky but don’t have a tight enough fit and are too high heel for descent stability.

My favourites are Sportiva Boulders followed by Walsh Raids.

In reply to Ray Von:

Rock City in Hull had some for £45.

In reply to Andy Hyslop Rock + Run:
>> My favourites are Sportiva Boulders followed by Walsh Raids.

Both resoled with dotty stealth?
If so : who does this and how much?
Any thoughts on new guide tennies?

Sportiva Boulders already have a sticky dot sole on them. They are difficult to get hold of in the UK. I got my last pair at Mountain Works in Berkeley and used them for running and climbing up to 5.7 in the Sierra. They were completely thrashed after 4 weeks but I think that’s fair enough considering the hammering I gave them.

The Walsh Raid sole is good as it is, and because the fit is close you can edge with them fairly well. Certainly good enough up to Severe.

Generally I don’t like the fit on any Five Ten shoes. OK for walking up to crags but if you really want to move fast in rough terrain they are just too sloppy. Having said that the bloke who set the record for the California 14s 2 years ago used Trail Almighty’s.

In reply to KH: Walsh Raids every time, and they are light enough to carry up behind you.

In reply to Andy Hyslop Rock + Run:
Are they all ok for not slipping on grass? I have some fell running trainers that are great for not slipping on wet grass, but terrible on rock or even tarmac, and I want some trainers I can climb in, but I want them to be good on grass too........ will all the ones people are talking about be ok that way? Maybe I'd be best just seeing which fit best? I'll need them to be able to take orthotics.

I tried on the 5.10 ones and they just felt peculiar....... different shape from my feet I think.

In reply to gwilym: I use a pair of salomon pro sticky mids as pub boots and as a approach shoe the odd time but would NOT use then for scrambling nooooo way prob best to use stiff boot if already a comp climber or use the scarpa mescalito things if just a rock jock.

In reply to Andy Hyslop Rock + Run: I have had various outdoor trainers in the past but have never felt that secure in them, I particualy hated my salomons! The problems seem to be lack of grip on wet grass or rock, or the possibility of damaged ankles. Do you have a special technique for those record breaking descents?

In reply to BorisB:

another vote for Walshes.

Definitely the best for not slipping on steep, wet grass. They makes some lethal sea-cliff descents a lot less fraught. They are light enough to be easily carried on a harness. They edge quite well due to the thin sole and not having a rand but you need to wear down the studs around the toes a little first (climbing is very good for accelerating this process!). The sole is not 'sticky' but in practice they climb much better than clumpy shoes with the approved rubber. Severes are no problem and I've done Pembroke HVS's in them. For most people a combination of these and Ninja type slippers will be both lighter and do their respective jobs far better than some single compromise.

Ironically they are also currently far more trendy than approach shoes: they are a cult item in Italy and Hoxton fashionistas will approve.

All this and they come from Bolton!

In reply to Andy Hyslop Rock + Run: What about the new Scarpas Ascent Lite?

In reply to Andy Hyslop Rock + Run:

Used to have a pair of Cragmasters, pretty good but sloppy and got wet. Have trail almightys now, much tighter + more waterproof, also pretty good for running.

In reply to KH:

Meindl Air Active, the most comfortable things I've ever put on my feet. They hold the mid part of the foot well, so no slippage, but a roomy toe box when you're legging it and need to spread your toes. Cut low at the ankle bones (important for me - most of my shoes/trainers/stickies etc are too high and rub that part raw). Gore-tex, and they look great (all black), if you're fussed about things like that. Excellent grip on grass/rock/rubble/mud.

On the negative side, they're not cheap, even with a CCC discount, and they have zero protection for your ankles (as I discovered a fortnight ago, with a slip that's stopped me climbing for 6 weeks or so).

In reply to KH:

I have (had - they've aged) a pair of 5.10 crag masters and I dont really rate them.
I used them quite a bit, but within 6-7 months, the sole had seriously worn, and the side walls were beginning to thin, and get holes in (which was a tad annoying in the wet stuff). I sent them back to rock and run, and they refused to pass them back to 5.10, because I have pronation of my foot (as with the majority of the population, and one side had worn down more than the other)
Perhaps I had some bad luck...

Get something else,

cheers

tom

In reply to Tom Dingwall:
If you're pronating enough to get such uneven wear, consider getting a referral from your GP to a podiatrist to get orthotics. Cost me nothing and I wish I'd known about them years ago, before I did my knees so much damage. But at least having them now means they aren't getting worse as fast as they would have.

In reply to gingerkate:

Sportiva Boulders are OK on grass when new but lethal when they get worn down a bit. The new Scarpa models look promising but I haven’t tried them yet.

>will all the ones people are talking about be ok that way? Maybe >I'd be best just seeing >which fit best? I'll need them to be able to >take orthotics.

I use orthotics, but I don't bother with them in performance footwear that I am only wearing a couple of times a week. I good compromise for your approach shoes is a pair of Superfeet. They are sort of crude orthotics but they do the job for me if I wear proper orthotics the rest of the time.

Other brands that seem to have a reasonable compromise between good fit and stickiness are Garmont and one something called 'Super Fly' - can't remember the maker name.

I have talked to loads of show manufacturers over the years including Chris Brasher and Alan Evans of ETA. While we all understood what was required none of them really managed to pull off the perfect shoe. The ones that have turned out to be GREAT approach shoes have almost been designed by accident.

In reply to Andy Hyslop Rock + Run:
Cheers Andy.

In reply to KH: Does anyone hear actually know what the best approach shoe actually is - i.e. they have tried them all on and then made a judgement? Or are people merely recommending the brand that they are currently wearing?

In reply to Jon Dittman:
I think you'll find that Andy has tried most approach shoes and knows his stuff on this topic.

In reply to KH:

Have lead up to HS with my Solomon Functions. Very stable & sticky & has sticky toe & heel. I got them from TK-max for £25.00 - alas only in small sizes ( 6 & below)

In reply to KH:
5.10 Guide Tennies are superb if you can get hold of a pair. Snug fit and sticky rubber to boot

In reply to JayH:

I'll second the Meindl Air Actives - I bought them to use as an approach shoe and initially tried to save them for that. I've now given up and wear them day in, day out.

Tough as you like, comfy, good-looking and good performing shoes

In reply to KH: 5:10 Guide Almighty's. The best. End of story.

In reply to KH:

5.10 cragmasters- although they do wear out very quickly if used as general trainers for wearing into town etc

In reply to KH:

I know I've said it before but...

Meidl Mountain Cracks

In reply to Vdiff Dave:

Try the Montrail D7's ....you won't be dissatisfied.

Im my humble opinion they are the comfortable to walk in, yet offer a very good edge and toe for fairly technical climbing.

Have a look at them at Outside in Hathersage.

In reply to KH: I have used the 5:10 Guide Tennie for the last 5 years and they are nearly worn out. As soon as they become available again, I will be straight to the shops for a pair. See:

http://www.fiveten.com/products/index.php?action=item&id=67

The BEST climbing/Approach shoe bar none. Some approach shoes are better for pure walking, but it sounds like you definately want to climb in them as well. These are soled in the same 5:10 Stealth C4 sticky rubber as their rock boots, with the addition of a dotty tread for grip on wet grass, trails, etc.
I bought mine so that I could get to the base of the main cliff at Gogarth without flying down to my death. Apart from being comfy to walk miles in, they come into their own on rock. I'm often asked why I'm climbing in trainers, but quite frankly a technical rock slipper isn't often the best footwear to climb in. They are brilliant in cracks as you can stand all day on a foot jam with no pain, yet the knowledge that your foot isn't going anywhere. They are also good on small, sharp holds as they don't hurt your toes. I did Brant in mine straight from the box and spent the next few days leaving my technical shoes in the sack as I walked from the Pass to Dinas Mot and climbed Direct Route and Diagonal and descended - all without taking them off! I've bouldered slabs up to 6b in them as well - they stick like nothing else.

Unless they don't fit, I don't know why everyone doesn't climb in them!

In reply to KH:

Does anyone use 5.10 Ascents on long mountain routes and how comfortable would you say they were for typical scree descents.

Slug