/ NEW REVIEW: Marmot Alpinist Jacket and Pants

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Alpinist jacket in action. Solvalla icefall, Helsinki, Finland. Photo: T. Leskelä, 4 kbToby Archer reviews a top of the range Goretex Pro-Shell modular jacket and salopette system, designed for the wildest winter weather.

"Now the Alpinist system once again gives people the chance to have a one piece suit should they wish it or 'just' a top-of-the-range salopette and jacket combination on other days..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3282

Rob Winston - on 15 Dec 2010
In reply to UKC Gear: A one piece suit.How do you crap?
Marmot UK - on 20 Dec 2010 - marmot.com
Marmot UK is interest to hear your thoughts and feedback regarding the new Alpinist Jacket and pant.

The best pieces of constructive feedback will win a small prize.

Prize winner will be selected on December 23rd.



Djupnes on 20 Dec 2010 - 194.108.189.109.customer.cdi.no
In reply to Rob Winston:
As mentioned in the review, american alpinists have the ability to hold it in for weeks so over there it's a non-issue
wee jamie on 20 Dec 2010
In reply to Marmot UK:
> Marmot UK is interest to hear your thoughts and feedback regarding the new Alpinist Jacket and pant.

I shall need a set of Alpinist gear then! I have the Exum jacket and have very few criticisms. They are 1) The hood does not project forwards enough leaving the sides of my face exposed to cross-winds and precipitation (but it's a lot better than most). 2) Although the pockets are good for ventilation, anything in them will get wet from perspiration. Personally I'd prefer sealed pockets, not laser drilled holes. If I want to vent, I'll use the pit zips/main zip, not the pockets.

Good review Toby.

Jamie

In reply to wee jamie:
> 2) Although the pockets are good for ventilation, anything in them will get wet from perspiration. Personally I'd prefer sealed pockets, not laser drilled holes. If I want to vent, I'll use the pit zips/main zip, not the pockets.

That's an interesting point and something I haven't found yet but I can totally see how it happens. How did you discover that Jamie? It sounds like the type thing you would only find out from hard experience - such as pulling out a map that wasn't in a case from your pocket and thinking "Ach! minging! I've got a sweat soaked map!" :-)

I've never even tried on an Exum but am pretty impressed with hood on the Alpinist. It does feel pretty old school to me with side protection rather than one of those ones that seems to be designed for using with ski googles.
wee jamie on 21 Dec 2010
In reply to TobyA: Hi Toby, I have put my wallet and camera in the pockets before and they have suffered, mainly when it's raining and the jacket isn't breathing as well as it does in the dry (saturated outer layer, yes yes, I should probably tumble-dry!). It's not a huge issue, as if it's raining I won't have the camera out anyway, and now I just wrap my wallet up and stick it in my pack, and keep food in the pockets.
I will say though, that I've never used my pockets for venting - the idea just seems a bit odd, plus if you do have anything in the pockets, you'll have to stop and move them before venting. Surely when the pocket zips are open, the pockets don't open up to allow breathing? - They'll be flat against the chest, and won't allow for air-flow. Right?
The other slightly odd thing with the Exum jacket is the giant MARMOT logo on the inside of the jacket - why? It would have looked quite good on the outside, but surely a bit pointless where it is. Millet did the same on their K jacket a few years ago - a massive logo and picture laminated to the inner fabric, and I assume totally un-breathable. Crazy!
Not sure if the Alpinist has anything like this (I hope not).
It sounds like the Alpinist is a pretty bombproof jacket like the Glenmore jacket was - really tough and hard-wearing fabric with a great hood. Nearly got one myself, but bought the Exum as lighter and smaller pack-size alternative.
Jamie
In reply to wee jamie: the big logo thing - yes - Marmot seems rather fond of them! :-) The Alpinist has one as does the Genesis softshell I reviewed last year.
wee jamie on 21 Dec 2010
In reply to TobyA: I will also add that the hem adjustment toggles on the Exum look to be in the same place as the Alpinist - at the sides. A slight gripe for me is that they dig in to my hips when compressed by a rucksack belt. Couldn't the toggles be placed slightly further around to the front where the belt will exert less pressure?

Admittedly, I'm going off pictures of the Alpinist coupled with my own experiences with the Exum.
In reply to wee jamie: Haven't noticed that issue myself but the alpinist is a relatively long jacket so the hem sits lower than your waist/hip region - see the first pic of me climbing; the harness is well above the bottom of the jacket. But also we're lazy buggers in Finland so most of the climbs I have done it in range in the walk-ins from about 5 minutes to 30 seconds, so might not have noticed it. Having said that, I have been hiking in it including carrying my younger son in a papoose for some of the way and he the weight of a huge expedition pack these days! No problems then, so it might be just a longer design than the Exum?

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