UKC

Since it's got to that time again here is an update...

I've not been out much since I got back a few days ago but here's what I know:

The Argentiere basin:

Routes on Grands Montets ridge are all looking great right now. Frendo Ravanel is a WI4 for the moment. lots of ice

The Verte: Sans Nom is showing black Ice as usual, but the Couturier side is all amazing. The Couturier itself is in perfect condition. Routes on the buttress below the Grande Rocheuse (Late to Say I'm Sorry, Bettembourg etc) are all in stellar nick as well. Same for the Vivagel which is a real romp right now. Have equipped the descent down Late To Say I'm Sorry and down the Couturier.

Droites: Ginat is looking good but the lower ice field looks like long sections of black ice covered by thin snow, so not ideal. The Colton Brooks is not in for the moment. Legarde Direct should be pretty good based on the Couturier.

Petit Viking got done the other day as well

Midi north face: routes not really all there yet from looking at it, but strangely enough Fil a Plomb looks incredible.

Reports of two climbers on the Carrington Rouse/ Terrey Rebuffat. Thin ice but the line is there.

Argentiere icefalls as fattening up but not fully in their peak yet. Though most of the routes are there.

More info here: http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions

Have a good season
Jon

Hi all,

Reportedly the Modica-Noury & Gabarrou-Albinoni are also in top condition.

Cheers,

Will

Met some German lads heading down the Vallee Blanche today coming from the Ginat- they said conditions were prefect at the moment. Hope this is useful for someone.

Will

In reply to Jon Griffith:

Dru couloir is not in (met some german lads who said middle section totally dry)

Chere is in usual mint easy stepped out nick

In reply to JR: Just updated about conditions on the Verte...lot's to do but its about to get incredibly cold out here.

http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions

In reply to Jon Griffith:

Yes, was -30 outside the requin yesterday eve, two brits scrapped it on the first pitch of the chere complaining it was too cold. Absolutely stunning with the full moon though last night up there.

In reply to Jon Griffith: was in cham first weekbof the year. Seems that there has been hardly any snow,in fact they had snow making on near the middle station of the grand montets for a few days.

A few storms dropped a few inches of snow higher up though, and the cremerie was ok.

Hope you get some snow out there want some more skiing!

Cheers.
Dave

In reply to dave frost: Snow conditions in january have been realy good up high for sking, it was warm and rainy in town which ment warmer snow sticking to the steep stuff. Almost all of the steep spring lines in the argentiere basin got skied. Very cold now though and i would imagine the resort sking is not very nice.

In reply to Ben Briggs: hi ben, yep snow up high was good. We did point du view and the snow near the top was gorgeous, compared with chamois lower down which was horrible and crusty, the type of stuff that snaps knees, yuk!

Havr good un.
Dave

In reply to dave frost:

yeah off piste not great now, so goo you found something although i am suprised with all this wind.

Some might like the link to the current camp to camp page for mont blanc conds:

http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/list/areas/14410/date/3W/orderby/date/ord...

In reply to Jon Griffith: Been up at the Torino for the last few days and did the Tour Ronde North face and Rocheford for a photo shoot so lots of photos here:
http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions

Grand Pilier D'Angle looks amazing for the moment as well

Jon

In reply to Jon Griffith:

Jon - notice in your pics of the Verte you don't seem to have skis or snow shoes with you, had you dumped them at the bottom of the route?

In reply to Doghouse: Left skis at the base of the Couturier, then just downclimb/ rap back down. Much easier and faster than heading down the Whymper side
jon

In reply to Jon Griffith:

Just had a great day out on the Pellisier. Not too cold and pretty fat. Nice enough ski down too but getting mogully down low.