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Cuillin Ridge Traverse- Length of rope required?

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 Pete23 05 Jan 2011
I am looking to attempt a Cuillin Ridge Traverse in May and I was wondering if anyone knows if I can get away with using my 30M rope?
My concern is not having enough rope to abseil the Inn Pinn from the chain.
I am sure 30M is adequate for the TD Gap and Naismiths route on the BTooth (with a belay half way).
If anyone has any information on this it would be appreciated, thanks.
Peter.
 TomPollock 05 Jan 2011
In reply to Pete23:
Hi Peter, I'm pretty sure it's an 18 metre abseil off the Inn Pin so your 30 metre rope won't be long enough. I'm planning to do the ridge myself in May and I've got a really detailed description which I can email to you if you want-just email me and I'll send it to you.
Good luck, Tom
 Wilbur 05 Jan 2011
In reply to Pete23:

think you need 40m of rope. we took my wall rope which is 40m...
Alan Pearson 06 Jan 2011
In reply to Pete23: If you really want to use a 30 downclimbing the Inn Pinn is your only option unless you can use someone elses ropes for the ab. TD gap is just doable on a 30. I have used a 30 for day traverses but 40+ gives you a lot more options.
 James Edwards 06 Jan 2011
In reply to Pete23:
The In Pinn ab is 17m. Thus you 'could' jump the last bit by going off the end of the rope or fix the rope and ask the next party (if there are other people about) the release it and throw it off for you, or abandon a long sling / tat at the chain to get you a bit longer.
I use a 35m rope for my traverses and this is great for everything. As to Naismiths route on the BT tooth 30 would be fine, there are lots of places to stop and belay (small but good stances) even though from below it looks overhanging!
Hope this helps
James
 victorclimber 06 Jan 2011
In reply to Pete23: you could just get away with the Inn pin abseil with 30mts but the last couple of mtrs would be to down climb .doable
 Will Hunt 06 Jan 2011
In reply to Pete23: We had a 35m rope with us and I was looking forward to seeing if it would get us down the Inn Pinn without having to drop a metre do a couple of metres of downclimbing. We ended up going on the rope of the party in front of us.
It was enough for everything else (Naismith's in two pitches). 30m could be pushing it really.
 James Edwards 06 Jan 2011
In reply to victorclimber:
The bottom bit of the usual absail (i.e. straight down from the chain) is definitely not down climbable, indeed the last 1m undercuts, something i warn people i'm lowering down about as it can cause a nasty swing into the rock if you are not expecting it.
Victor might be referring to the VDiff that is on the North corner (to your right when stood at the abb looking out and down) but as you would then be going diagonally you would eat up another metre or so of rope (and if the rock is damp the bottom bit of the vdiff is very tricky).
I'm quite confident of the above as i have been on the In Pinn a lot of times with a lot of people.
hope this helps
James e
Alan Pearson 10 Jan 2011
In reply to Alan Pearson: ps. When I refered to downclimbing I ment back the way you came not downclimbing any part of the abseil which would not be a good idea in my opinion.
In reply to Pete23: 30m and a 30m length of pull cord?
Ron Davison 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Pete23: You need a 45m rope fpr the In Pinn abseil
 Simon Caldwell 11 Jan 2011
In reply to davison:
No you don't, I did it with 40m and it was ample. I've no idea how much less you could get away with though.
In reply to Toreador:

This has been reiterated so often. Isn't it generally agreed that something like 35m will be more than enough?
 Offwidth 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Toreador: Mine was nearer 38, also fine.
 Andy Nisbet 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Offwidth:

I think you'll get down with a 30m rope, on the rope stretch. You just have to be a bit careful finishing, in case the rope pings out of reach. I don't think it does. I've top-roped abseiling clients on a 50m rope, which menas one-third of 50m is the maximum length. So I would say 16m abseil at most.
 Jimmy D 12 Jan 2011
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

16m is bang on
 Mike Lates 12 Jan 2011
In reply to Andy Nisbet: Yep, 30m on the stretch of 9.1 single (Joker)is just enough. Not long enough for stacked abseils as you cant keep hold of the ends without tensioning them.
At busy times parties can put a long sling around the huge boulder behind the Bolster stone and abseil in the same direction but 40m is needed (the south wall direction needs 50m+ and is rough on ropes; north wall I've never tried) Get someone on top to throw your sling down afterwards. Explain carefully what is happening to other parties if you want to avoid an arguement, check for climbers on the short end and be patient/refuel etc.
The method used for years was to down-climb the short-side with the last person protected by the flake half-way down.
I abbed from this flake in October as I only had 17m total. Reaching it I realised that the whole flake could be looped but reckoned the rope would lock. With one hand holding the rope over a shallow spike on top of the flake tying an Italian hitch one handed was challenging. The length was alright but not an exercise I'd recommend overall.
Retrospectively I worked out that the last person must have climbed down to the flake, looped their rope over the shallow spike and down-climbed with tension from a belayer below.

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