UKC

Anyone ben and got any views about them?

I've heard Orgon has got a fairly wide grade spread, is that right?

Is it the kind of place with very separate sectors (i.e. a wall of 7s, then a wall of 4s, and never the two shall mix), so you'd be walking round a lot in a mixed group, or are the routes fairly mixed up? I'm possibly going as a part of a mixed group (5s through to low 7s) in a few months, so I'm keen to know how well it will work.

I don't know anything at all about Mouries, so any beta on that would be pretty awesome too.

Thanks a lot,

Andy

In reply to AJM: Not been to Orgon for many years, so maybe out of date, but I found it fantastic with plenty in the grades your suggesting. Also really good as it is in an arc so you can follow the shade all summer and climb all day, or in your case earlier in the year, follow the sun.
Also there was a big lake for swimming in.
don't know the other place sorry

In reply to AJM:

A few years since I last went but there is loads of climbing in a pretty compact cirque. There's a separate sector, Canal, with stuff from 5s to 8a on it. Or it did when I was there. There may be harder stuff now as well We had a good fortnight there.

Mouries is a long slabby crest with a flat meadow below as I remember and therefore very popular with familes. Mum and dad can climb while the rugrats play at the bottom or snooze in their pushchairs. I think the other side of the crag has some steeper stuff but we did not go there. There is loads of climbing in the Alpilles area at St Remy, Fontveille and Aureille. Again there are probably new crags since we were there. Buoux is also within easy striking distance by car.

We've had good trips there.

In reply to Wiley Coyote:

Sounds great - thanks a lot guys. Any specific route recommendations?

In reply to AJM:

Oh, and if anyone has used whatever the current local guide is, is it any good?

In reply to AJM:

I've been to both.

Orgon: A concentration of easier stuff near the car park covered in families, but harder stuff not far away. Easier stuff polished, but still climbable.

Mouries: South side more broken, some easier routes. North (Meadow) side is a continuous steep wall with very little easier stuff. I found it a bit undergraded. Your weaker climbers will struggle on this section, the 6-7 climbers will love it.

In reply to Chris Harris:

Chris,

Thanks for that info - looks great.

Andy