UKC

I've got to get myself a new jacket; my Lowe Alpine Pro, despite being a brilliant cut for me simply saturates in heavy weather now, especially if I'm exerting. Beyond re-proofing I fear. Want a technical jacket that'll cover all the bases for winter climbing, but will also handle wet multi-day itineries in the good'ole British summer. I think part of the problem is that I'm a big guy that likes to move fast, so if you've got heavy precipitation plus heavy condensation then no jacket I've tried has been able to cope as yet. Bit scared of the amount of outlay I'm going to have to consider (prepared to go up to 300 sheets if it works and has longevity) for an uncertain result. Any pointers are most appreciated.

JAMIE B>

In reply to Jamie B.:
i would suggest lightweight waterproof-breathable for about 100 notes:
mountain hardwear epic
lowe aton
marmot precip etc.

even isf they wear out 3 times as quick-and they wont- youve spent the same money
and wear your buffalo when it isnt lashing it down.
or get into the 21st century and have a modern softshell system to replace your buffalo

driclime
puff vest
puff jacket
lightweight waterproof. cost the same as your 300 quid waterproof asd so much more versatile...

In reply to Jamie B.: Also have the LA Pro and find v. sweaty - Dave's advice is pretty good although I have a LA Adrenalin Anorak, super light but as breathable as a bin bag... recently bought the Marmot Precip troos and they seem a lot less sweaty so the Precip Jkt might be OK for a light one...

Alternatively, when I was looking around Berghaus are doing a smock which was well less that 200 quid but still made out of XCR goretex. The reviews of it were very good in the Climbing mags. I decided I didn't need a new one in the end, but that was the one I was going to go for.

In reply to Jamie B.:
You can have my Alpine Pro, Jamie - I have another jacket & dont really use it any longer. Its a couple of years old but very little used. NOt sure if its a L or XL but if it helps I'm 6'3" with looong arms (neandertal). If you're interested you could make me an offer (50 quid-ish ?).... ?

In reply to TobyA: Just got Berghaus Paclite Smock £108, light as anything...even breathes a bit, but I got it cos I find the number of times I wear a waterproof is becoming less and less.....buffalo/montane top in winter and thin fleece/pertex top in summer....so waterproof sits in the bag till absolutely lashing it down.

Mike

In reply to d hunter r+r: ach pish, softshells shyte in winter, nae friction fer chimneys

In reply to EB:
pish yersel. just cuz yer grotex gis ya crotch rot an scrapes yer bollox raw theres nae need tae be cynical.

In reply to Jamie B.:

Hmmm. The longevity of it can't be compared with say XCR, but something like the Berghaus PacLite Pro jacket at around £150 is more breathable than XCR, and really really lightweight!

Not gonna be as hardwearing though!

In reply to d hunter: PISH PISH PISH!! ah wear paramo sallies RIGHT!!! however sir, i tried a paramo jacket in winter and it was PISH, as slippery as an eel and spits you out of chimneys, good old XCR GTX is ideal for scottish winter climban

In reply to EB:

no no no. laminates are not as good. i suggest you get a patagonia mixmaster jacket when it comes out.
Let us resolve this like gentlemen. I challenge you sir to a chimney climbing duel. you may use any grotex you care to. I ll have a nice soft shell.
My second sir will call upon yours.

In reply to d hunter: laminates are not as good? for what? facking DIY in yer hoose or somethin?

In reply to EB:
for staying comfy. its much better with soft shell. it really really is. not so sweaty and clammy by a long way. and warmer.
but if youre into suffering then by all means stick with a waterproof.
cheers d

In reply to MJH:


You haven't done much hillwalking in Scotland, have you?

JAMIE B>

In reply to d hunter:

are there to be mixmaster trews? and is it still possible to get a driclime with hood????

In reply to d hunter: sweaty and clammy????????? and warmer??? are you facking mad boy???????? i wasnt cold ONCE this winter, i think for a jacket for scottish winter yer talkin mince saying xcr GTX is shyte, I agree that softshell sallies are the way forward though..as I said i used a paramo jecket for a season and it was like wearing a floppy bath mat and fookin cauld and the cuffs were abysmal and the hood was shocking..
theres nothing like a good stiff one in a blizzard, OOOOOOOOHHHHHHH suits you sir

In reply to EB:

Indeed, sir. In my experience, a blizzard is snow, so you don't need a waterproof. And if its that crappy sleety stuff you can still get away with a light waterproof if you need one at all. I afgree wholeheartedly with your assessment of Paramo jackets. Try summat else. Like a nice Patagonia Mixmaster. Oh yes.

In reply to jono:

There will indeed be the whole Mixmaster gimp suit of matching jacket and trousers. Disturbingly the entire Rock + Run staff have ordered them for next winter.
I have spoken to Marmot and learnt to my dismay that they've stopped getting them with a hood in Europe. Madness. They did however reassure me that they'd reintroduce them next year. But as a jacket, not a pull-on. Can't have everything I suppose...

In reply to Dave Hunter, Rock + Run: I cant afford facking Patagucci facking gear Hunter!!!!!!!

ILL STICK WITH MA FACKING GTX SON!!!!! U FACKING LAKES FACKING GEAR FREAKS!!!!


DJ Mixmaster Brunskill

In reply to EB:
Gear freak? I have to be, its my job. Patagucci doesn't cost any more than other stuff nowadays. Mixmaster will be less than a heavyweight XCR. Honest guv.
But I suppose you're saving for your nice new Smartwool trolleys...
Keep taking the pills
Cheers D

In reply to Jamie B.:

Get naked, run around! be free!

Matt.

In reply to Dave Hunter, Rock + Run: so how much do youze lakes fannies pay for Patagucci mixmaster jeckets then??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

cheers

DJ Eddie Bonskid

PS IVE RUN OOT OF MEDICATION

In reply to Jamie B.: Just prefer to wear my montane top if it is that bad then you are going to get wet whatever you are wearing (perhaps a drysuit would be suitable!).

M

In reply to Jamie B.: Let's face it - on a wet scottish day, nothing is going to keep you dry, save staying in. Also, once a jacket is wet on the outside (which it will be unless you've had it less than 10 minutes and the dwr finish is still working) it can't breath properly anyway. Because of this, I'd say breathability is less of an issue than manufacturers would have you think. Basically, if it's cold (snow) you don't need a waterproof - go soft shell (much more breathable and comfy); if it's warm (rain) you're going to get wet, so go for something light which won't weigh you down or hold too much water.

In reply to EB:
How much? Well a bit less than you will, obviously. If you drop buy sometime we'd do you a good deal on a nice new Mixmaster uniform to go over your Smartwool grollies. You could repeat a couple of the Gable routes too, given conditions...
I suggest deep breathing and visualisation to overcome your lack of medication. Perhaps you know of someone who specialises in that sort of thing.

Tootle pip. D.