UKC

For the last 3/4 years I've used only la sportiva katana shoes. The overall performance is great and I'd ideally continue using them, but they seem to wear particularly quickly, despite not getting out on rock a great deal. On average the toe goes after about 6 months. A friend has had similar issues.

Is this normal? Are Katanas particularly bad for wear? Any alternatives that you would suggest?

Thanks,

Nick

In reply to nickdunn:

Seem to wear very well to me. In fact any Sportiva rock shoes/slippers I've had in the last 10 years have worn well relative to other brands.

In reply to nickdunn:
On average the toe goes after about 6 months. A friend has had similar issues.

Are you both 'scrabblers'? One of the guys in my club goes through toes on his shoes like there's no tomorrow, but he tends to 'scrabble' on features indoors instead of picking a nubbin and placing his foot on it positively. The other thing you might be doing at the wall is putting your foot on a big hold and allowing your toe to scrape down the wall as you move up on the hold - if the wall texture is aggressive that'll wear your toes out as well.

In reply to Toerag: Will keep an eye on it next time to see. Good suggestion, thanks.

In reply to nickdunn:
6 months doesnt seem too unreasonable for regular use...

In reply to nickdunn: Find that Katanas last me around 9 months of regular use, better than several other shoes I've tried. My footwork isn't slick though! Indoors is quite often harder than outside on your shoes in my experience, especially aggressively textured walls.
So two part plan to improve shoe life:
1. Improve footwork.
2. Climb outside more and inside less.

In reply to nickdunn:

that´s why I have put the slightly stiffer 5.10 XS stealth soles on my Katanas at the lats resoling. Seems to improve things a lot,

CB

In reply to nickdunn:

Totally agree. Katanas wear out very quickly on the toe (6 months is usual). I think the rubber must be much thinner for some reason.
It's not just me either, everyone I know who has/had them has had the same issue. Damn good shoe though..

In reply to nickdunn:

ive had a pair going on 7 years - only because theyre so cripplingly painful to wear i only keep em for certain edging routes.

In reply to nickdunn: I was disappointed with the wear on mine too, i got them in october and the right shoe has a hole in the front, however the worst thing is that the metal ring the top velcro strap goes though on the right shoe has nearly come off and is now attached with finger tape.