UKC

Hi,

Can anyone recommend a decent guide/company to go with for a Mount Kenya expedition involving the technical climbing to the highest peak (Batian)?

Also, how have you organised it. Did you book it before travelling or whilst in Nairobi?

Thanks.

In reply to climberuk:

see if you can track down Wilson Njeru Edward

In reply to lost1977:

he is on FB

In reply to climberuk:

I know nothing of how to go about climbing Mt Kenya, but did a quick google and Wilson Njeru Edward seems to work for this organisation: http://www.climbingafrica.com/OURGUIDESPORTERS.html

In reply to climberuk:

You can book companies either in Nairobi or in the various villages around the base of the mountain. The important thing is either case is to talk to the company in detail to understand their experience and how they treat their employees.

When I was on the mountain we wanted to hire porters to bring a food resupply halfway through our trip. One company insisted we had two porters, despite the weight being well within the capabilities of one person, because it was their policy never to let employees on the mountain alone. Another company kept saying all we needed was one porter as it would save us money. We went with the first company.

On Mount Kenya, unlike Kilimanjaro, there is no need to have a guide to be in the park. In 2006, if you were in the park for what they called 'technical climbing' then your park rates were also reduced.

Mehmet

In reply to climberuk: ask for Duncan. He's one of the rangers. You'll be in luck if he's available. I have his further details if you are interested. See my pics he's on them.

In reply to clarkie: sorry this is off topic, but i thought the Amphatheatre, base camp 2 photo is superb. not a bad view from the bed room. :-D

In reply to clarkie:

looking at your photos i'm pretty sure i met Duncan some years back when i was there, great mountain isn't it

In reply to climberuk:

I am currently negotiating a trip to climb Batian with 'Mt Kenya Guides and Porters Safari Club' http://www.mtkenyaguides.com

Does anyone have any experience/knowledge of them? I found them by googling, not by recommendation, so am interested in any comments.

In reply to Fredt:

Savage Wilderness Safaris are great. http://www.whitewaterkenya.com/

In reply to JayPee630:

Can you give a little more detail, have you had experience of climbing with them?

In reply to Fredt:

Yes, sorry. I led a trip up Mt Kenya for a UK trekking company, and they provided the local guide. I only did the trekking trip, not the climbing summit though, but I'm jealous, it looked incredible!

I then went and stayed at their camp for a few days which is a beautiful place next to a river. While staying there I met Mark Savage who is bit of a legend in the area, and they just impressed me with their knowledge and set up.

In reply to climberuk: I'd drop an e-mail to Dave:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=44049

he was up there not so long ago, and might have some useful info.

In reply to malky_c:

I would get in touch with Michael Gichigo at Snowpeaks Tours. He guided us (Africa 3 Peaks Expedition 2008) up Lenana on Mount Kenya and organisd the technical guides for our attempt on Batian. He also organised Kili for us. He had great contacts and had been working on Mount Kenya for over 10 years. He also visited me in Nairobi twice to confirm details before our expedition. I highly recommend him. He might be on a mountain so try his mobile if you don't get a quick email response.

http://www.snowpeakstours.net/Mountaineering.php
snowpeakstours@gmail.com
+254 722307663Mobile
+254 202340580Mobile

Enjoy, it's a great trip. Cheers, Ricky.

In reply to climberuk: Hi, I went with a company called EWP in 2008. It all went very well on the mountain, we did a complete circuit of the mountain, climbed a small peak along the way, and the Batian. I would use them again. The only down side was when it came to tips! It has always been my experience in Africa (5 trips) that the Africans always want far more than originally agreed and they are not very gracious about it - I hope you have a better experience, and good luck.

In reply to topout8848m:

http://cosleyhouston.com/kenya.htm

In reply to climberuk: Try looking up Peak High Mountaineering. peakhigh.co.za or email them gavin@peakhigh.co.za. They're based in South Africa but do organise trips on request to Mt Kenya.

In reply to climberuk:

Sorry for the thread hijack, but out of interest is the Dimond Couloir a thing of the past now?

In reply to climberuk:

Thanks for all the replies. Lots of options to go through now.

Cheers all.

In reply to climberuk:
It's good when you talk to a guide directly rather than a company. Kenya companies don't have guides. They contract.
I lead climbs on mountains in this region. I guide safaris too.
Wilson

In reply to Exile:
Graciers on Mt.Kenya is a sorry state. They are almost gone. Lewis gracier which is the biggest remains a shadow of the past. Mt.Kenya is no longer a icy climbing mountain but lather a rock climbing mountain. There are good climbs though.
Wilson.

In reply to Rwe:

Is the Diamond couloir now a distant memory, friends did it back in 1989.

In reply to climberuk: Hi.
Had a look at your profile and I'm just wondering why it is you think you will need a guide on mt Kenya? WhenI did it many years ago were were just a couple of club climbers with a bit of alpine experience between us. Pete Hudd was probably leading to your standard, and he was the stronger of us. I'm not sure I'd call it an expedition: more a pretty demanding Alpine climb. We climbed Nelion and on to Batian and back, then stayed in the Nelion summit refuge before descendin the next day. It took us two attempts because of the weather.

In reply to climberuk:
Alan Kimber (scotland based guide) used to do a trip to Mt Kenya.
You can do it without a guide. I did Firmin Hicks on N Face of Batian many yrs ago, just 2 of us with a small tent and food for 3-4 days. The abundant fauna in the forest is almost as much fun as the mountain!

In reply to climberuk:

Agree with above links about needing a guide. Mt kenya has god's own rock boast solid predictable weather and if you can climb HVS then all the normal routes up Nelion and Batian should not be a problem. Did the Shipton route up Nelion last April and there was only one pitch harder then VS. tHE CLIMBING IS GREAT! and unlike Kilimanjaro you just pay at the gate and go.. no flapping around with the local companies etc etc.

In reply to climberuk:

Hi,

I lived out there for a few years and would agree with the comments about finding a guide personally- either go with a recommendation of someone on UKC or someone you know- if you just go to a company you might well be told what they think you want to hear- which is not always the best 12 pitches up Batian!

http://www.hepworthadventures.co.uk/images/FlashPhotos/Batian.html is a link to one of my trips up Batian (the chap I went with was a local based in Naivasha who had never touched snow before!)
The mountain you do and the route you take will depend on the time of year that you want to go up it. If you want to do Nelion then Oct-Feb is best, if you want to do Batian then June - Sep is the best. Obviously if you want to do winter routes then swap the mountain/ route and you might well be lucky.

Cheers
Jez

In reply to climberuk: obviously all up to you but i climbed it with a mate a few years back. he took a porter who also pointed out the way to point lenana then left us to it. the normal route is no different to an easy alpine rock - something like the NE of l'M perhaps.

just trying to save you a few bob....

awesome trip though. make sure you read No Picnic on Mount Kenya.

In reply to climberuk: I was there last year with work and did it all on a tight budget in country, I got a lift to the gate hired a porter and walked in over three days to the Austrian hut. My itineray was as follows:
Day one gate - weather station
Day two weather station to McKinders hut
Day Three McKinders hut to Austrian hut.
Day 4 - 6 Summit Nelion / Batian
Day 7 walk out to gate
1. Take your own dehydrated food, I would bring it in from the UK.
2. You can get a porter from any of the guiding companies on the way to the entrance of the park.
3. You can book all the routes and accommodation at the park entrance.
4. Gas is hard to come by so use a multi fuel stove.
5. Hire a tent or take your own, the only place I would recommend staying in is McKinders hut the rest are bogging. At all costs do not stay in the Austrian Hut as they cook in the entrance and the fumes are a killer for acclimatisation.
5. You only need one Ice axe per person to get across the glacier and the gates of the mist. Crampons are a must if you want to cross the gates of the mist. Ice axes and crampons can be hired in country if needed.
6. You only need a light british trad rack and 2 x 60m ropes.
7. When crossing the gates of the mist abb into it on one rope and leave in place and cross with the other rope, this allows you to get back easier.
8. You can kip down in the Howell hut on top of Nelion if needed but only stay in Ballies bivi if you really have to as its bogging and half full of snow and crap.
8. Best guide books are Kilimanjaro and East Africa by Cordee or Mountain club of Kenya guide book to mount Kenya by Iain Allen. Both books are available in the UK, I got mine from Needle sports in Keswick.

Finally I made this Topo of the normal route on Nelion if its any help.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd281/jon859/nelionroutetopo.jpg

I cant remember my overall cost but it wasnt more than $400

In reply to jon59:

Hey,

That topo is really helpful.

Do you (or anyone) know anything about the Scott-Braithwaite route and/or the Diamond Buttress.

Cheers,

Tom

In reply to jon59:

That's good advice; one thing I'd add is that a 4+ season sleeping bag is essential unless you want to get cold at night.

Another observation would be that you clearly acclimatise pretty quickly!

When I did it, we gave ourselves longer for acclimatisation by doing some minor surrounding peaks. On Nelion, we puffed a bit on the ascent but suffered no problems with altitude until I woke up in Howell's with what *might* have been early cerebral oedema the following morning. I was vomiting and in no fit state to climb, so we had to miss out on Batian but I recovered fairly quickly once we got below the amphitheatre on the descent.

In reply to Conquistador of the usless: It's a thing of the past.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: I climbed them when I was doing my rescue training. About 10yrs ago. It was challenging though.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
Diamond buttress route can be climbed Dec - Mar but you will have to wait for the sun to move around to climb the Scott-Braithwaite route Jun - Oct. The only climbs getting done when I was there was the normal route onto Nelion which sees alot of traffic. On this thread a guy called wilson has popped up, Im certin he was on the mountain last year when I was there guiding a british couple up the normal route, he seemed like a good lad and looked like he new what he was doing, I would have climbed with him.
All the other routes are done each year but route finding can be problamatic as some havnt been climbed for years.

Forgot to add before:

1. A good sleeping bag is essential unless you want to get cold-as mentioned.
2. Cross the glaicer at night and climb the first few pitches by head torch and wait on the traverse for the sun to come up, this gives you a good head start.
3. The abseil from the top of Nelion is now bolted and marked with green paint and it sort of follows the normal route, though they do take a bit of finding.
4. Take lots of tat and malions for the abseil.
5. Wear a helmet theres lots of loose rock.
6. Dont stash kit outside as the Kenyan marmot things eat everything including my mates leather boot tounge!!!

In reply to jon59: Surely I meet you.