UKC

The latest news from our intrepid access man, Les Ainsworth, is that the Hoghton Estate have agreed that the climbing season for 2011 will now run from the date the peregrines fledge (round about 7/8th June last year) to the end of August. Although we'd still like to get year round access (and discussions will continue to try to secure this in the future) the situation for 2011 is now significantly better than it has been for many years.

Hoghton has probably the finest single rockface in Lancashire with many absolute classics that are as good as the best Millstone can to offer. However, the crag is set in woodland and is prone to over growing. Attempts to clean up have been made in previous years with limited success - with a very short period of agreed access the level of traffic on the routes has not been enough to keep them clean. Inevitably, because of the limited access, people have also been discouraged from really going to town on cleaning the crag.

But this year is different!

The North West Area Meeting on Monday May 23rd, 7.30 pm at the Belmont Bull will be making plans to get Hoghton back to its former glory. We want as many people as possible to get involved and everyone, whether BMC members or not, is invited.

Free chips and butties as usual.

Hope to see you there

Colin Struthers, NW Area Chairman

In reply to colin struthers:

Great news! I have fond memories of climbing there in the late seventies and thinking at the time that the crag is of national importance - for instance Rhododendron Buttress, Mandarin and Boadicea would be three star routes at Millstone or Tremadoc. To my mind the BMC North West are doing a great job by eg sorting out crags such as Wilton and Frogsmouth. If you could pull off Hoghton (hope there's no-one called 'Hoghton' reading this)that would a real service to climbing, not just in the NW but nationally.

In reply to colin struthers:
Great news! If i'm home from uni, then i shall try and come down

In reply to colin struthers:

I think that in order to help keep the routes clean the trees at the top of the crag need to be felled. I understand that this might not be acceptable to the estate for a variety of reasons. Look at the photos in the Lancs guide, hardly a tree in sight.

ALC

In reply to a lakeland climber: When was the last time you visited the place? 6 very large sycamore where removed from the base of Rhododendron Buttress last year, and the large oak felled from the large ledge half way up, not to mention some hardcore scrub bashing. Its made a massive improvement to the climbs in the area, more light and air moving over them. I think felling all the trees at the top might be asking for a bit to much. What the place really needs is some traffic to help keep the high quaility routes clear.

In reply to climbingpete:

Last visit was during the world cup last year, can't remember the exact day. Wasn't thinking of all the trees! Just enough at the crag edge to stop tree litter. There may have been work done after that time but the main part of the quarry floor had been cleared.

ALC

In reply to colin struthers: just rip all the trees out. it's been done at Lawrencefield. Who needs green stuff everywhere?

In reply to colin struthers:

Colin, I definitely think a call to the Lawrencefield Brigade would be a good idea

E

In reply to unclesamsauntibess:

Assuming you're not joking (I've been caught out by this irony mularkey on here before), I put it to you, sir, that you are an ignorant philistine. Apart from the ecological side (and it might be an SSI), trees perform useful roles in climbing. They look nice, they provide belays and they can provide shelter from the rain. Usually they just need thinning out and the odd one taken down. Could I suggest, if it's not done already, that before crag clean-ups the BMC arrange for a suitable professional to advise on which trees/areas should be cleared.

In reply to Pekkie:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=459029

E

In reply to Enty:

Hmmm, Lawrencefield. I like the dispute over 'Three Trees Climb' and the suggestion that it should now be called 'Three Stumps Climb'. I am in a bit of a dilemma on this issue. On the one hand I like to think that I am a bit of an environmental warrior and love to hug trees. On the other I like climbing and there is no doubt that trees sometimes get in the way and can create a micro-climate that encourages moss etc. However, I don't see why we can't find a solution that satisfies both points of view. I just don't think that you should 'whizz the lot'.

In reply to colin struthers: Thats brilliant news! Only done mandarin but it was superb, and a real shame this is such a neglected venue.

In reply to colin struthers: there have been a few clean-ups here over the last few years. I went on one of the first and it was a good turnout BUT like Colin says it does need a big effort (and better access). One of the lines I tried to clean was mostly unreachable due to the huge rhododendron cornice. If these could be obliterated it would be a major step forward - anybody got a big drum of herbicide?

In reply to colin struthers: Brilliant news that, and well done to Les for this.

Hoghton is a very sensitive venue for a number of reasons (peregrines and ravens, as well as Lord de Hoghton's grouse and pheasant stocks) but really is a fantastic gritstone quarry - probably the best in the country when it's cleaned up - and with quite a history behind it as well.

There are also some really good and really hard lines still to go at, on some impressive territory. Well worth joining in the cleanup and scoping out these lines.

Phil

Re the great tree debate. Everyone is aware that fewer trees/scrub is better for biodiversity, aren't they?
Just asking, like.

Full update on BMC website here http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=4306