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I'm spending a week in Munich during the summer holidays planning to do some climbing. Had a look through the UKC database and there appears to be sod all. But considering that its right next to the Alps there must be something. Is it possible that anyone could point me towards a guidebook or give me some further information?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
In reply to Quarryboy: Not a crag, but if you're a German speaker this may be of interest:
http://www.alpenverein.de/template_loader.php?tplpage_id=12
They own an Olympic Gold Medal awarded to one of the North Face of the Matterhorn first ascensionists.
http://www.alpenverein.de/template_loader.php?tplpage_id=12
They own an Olympic Gold Medal awarded to one of the North Face of the Matterhorn first ascensionists.
In reply to Quarryboy: plenty of alpine stuff, garmisch is the nearest place.
Lots of great indoor walls in munich. The Germans know how to do walls. Cafes, Beer, climbing.
Lots of great indoor walls in munich. The Germans know how to do walls. Cafes, Beer, climbing.
In reply to Quarryboy:
The Alps are ~100km away. There is indeed some climbing there if you can organise the transport. A new guidebook has just been published, by the look of things: http://www.kletterausruestung-shop.de/aid-743-Kletterfuehrer-Muenchen-rockt...
> So is there not really any outdoor climbing around there then?
The Alps are ~100km away. There is indeed some climbing there if you can organise the transport. A new guidebook has just been published, by the look of things: http://www.kletterausruestung-shop.de/aid-743-Kletterfuehrer-Muenchen-rockt...
In reply to Quarryboy: Jim Titt, who occasionally posts on here, lives in the Munich area, so hopefully he'll see this and post a response. I friend of mine who was passing through Munich last year contacted Jim and he took her to the Frankenjura to climb. I've heard that there is an old quarry in the Munich area that has long been the local practice ground. There are also crags and alpine faces in the Bavarian Alps not too far from the city.
In reply to Quarryboy:
Munich itself is kinda flat but Garmisch and other alpine areas are 80 klicks away and have a full range of grades from easy via ferrata to Huber brother multi pitch desperates.
The Frankenjura, Germany's most celebrated sport climbing area is a couple of hours north and has more routes tah you can shake a stick at, best from 5+ upwards.
Munich itself is kinda flat but Garmisch and other alpine areas are 80 klicks away and have a full range of grades from easy via ferrata to Huber brother multi pitch desperates.
The Frankenjura, Germany's most celebrated sport climbing area is a couple of hours north and has more routes tah you can shake a stick at, best from 5+ upwards.
In reply to Quarryboy:
Munich, you should be out drinking and I can recommend plenty of good places to go...
Failing that we dragged ourselves away from the beer for a bit to the big (when I say big, its enormous) alpine club run wall which was excellent. Everything is on lead so you need a rope or hire one.
Munich, you should be out drinking and I can recommend plenty of good places to go...
Failing that we dragged ourselves away from the beer for a bit to the big (when I say big, its enormous) alpine club run wall which was excellent. Everything is on lead so you need a rope or hire one.
In reply to Quarryboy:
Nearest to Munich is, as described, a grotty quarry though by UK standards it´s probably a world-class venue! 40m sandstone slabs and granite.(3/4hr by car).
To the east the nearest area is around Rosenheim (1hr)with loads of crags, to the west things like Kochel and a few other crags, further on is the Allgau (1 1/2hrs) with its somewhat esoteric climbing.
Northwards (1hr)is the Southern Frankenjura with a couple of thousand routes and the birthplace of sport climbing in Germany and then further is the Northern Frankenjura with its 8,700+ finger-pocket pulling. (2hrs).
The DAV wall in Munich is now even more gigantic (biggest in the world by a long way) and the other main wall is Heavens Gate owned by the IG Klettern (the rivals to the DAV) which is merely huge but higher (30m). Across the road is the worlds biggest boulder hall. There are some others dotted around of little interest to a visitor.
Jim
Nearest to Munich is, as described, a grotty quarry though by UK standards it´s probably a world-class venue! 40m sandstone slabs and granite.(3/4hr by car).
To the east the nearest area is around Rosenheim (1hr)with loads of crags, to the west things like Kochel and a few other crags, further on is the Allgau (1 1/2hrs) with its somewhat esoteric climbing.
Northwards (1hr)is the Southern Frankenjura with a couple of thousand routes and the birthplace of sport climbing in Germany and then further is the Northern Frankenjura with its 8,700+ finger-pocket pulling. (2hrs).
The DAV wall in Munich is now even more gigantic (biggest in the world by a long way) and the other main wall is Heavens Gate owned by the IG Klettern (the rivals to the DAV) which is merely huge but higher (30m). Across the road is the worlds biggest boulder hall. There are some others dotted around of little interest to a visitor.
Jim
In reply to Quarryboy: I didn't know about the quarry, where's that!? Another vote for the Thalkirchen wall from me, and Heaven's gate looks interesting - 60m ropes needed!
http://www.kletternmachtspass.de/diehalle/hallenbilder
Apparently it can be hard to hear the climber at the top of the silos due to the echoeyness.
http://www.kletternmachtspass.de/diehalle/hallenbilder
Apparently it can be hard to hear the climber at the top of the silos due to the echoeyness.
In reply to Quarryboy: DAV walls round Munich - Gilching is to the south (accessible on the S-bahn?) http://verbundklettern.de/
In reply to Quarryboy:
Masses of climbing around Munich if you've got some transport but you need drive an hour or a little more, check out the Out of Rosenheim guide, Chiemgau Rock guide, Best of Genuss and Extreme guides for the bigger stuff. You're also not that far from some world class spots in Austria (a little south past Garmisch), the Tirol guide is good for this. My advice, spend a day in Munich, then go south!
Masses of climbing around Munich if you've got some transport but you need drive an hour or a little more, check out the Out of Rosenheim guide, Chiemgau Rock guide, Best of Genuss and Extreme guides for the bigger stuff. You're also not that far from some world class spots in Austria (a little south past Garmisch), the Tirol guide is good for this. My advice, spend a day in Munich, then go south!
In reply to Matt Vigg:
I live in Munich. As a resident there's disappointingly little - sod all - within afternoon/evening range (compared to when I used to live in Manchester, work in Cheshire and pop to the Roaches of an evening for example). Although, as several people already said, the climbing walls are good so that's some consolation.
But for day or weekend trips the possibilities are unlimited if you have transport: high class sport climbing at Kochel (also reachable by train) or Alumühltal / southern Frankenjura. Or Alpine. It would be theoretically possible to do a route in a day in (e.g.) the Kaisergebirge or the Berchtesgadener Alps if you were fit and willing to get up really early. (A theory which my mate and I plan to test in July)
There's a new selective guidebook "München Rockt" covering moderate grade cragging with day travel range. For the Alpine stuff the various "Österreich Genuss" books are good, or bergsteigen.at is a really good website if you can read enough German to click your way through the search pages.
But also as Matt said: if it's primarily a climbing trip then you're wasting your time in the city. Go to the Frankenjura or the Alps. Infinite wonderful possibilities in both places.
I live in Munich. As a resident there's disappointingly little - sod all - within afternoon/evening range (compared to when I used to live in Manchester, work in Cheshire and pop to the Roaches of an evening for example). Although, as several people already said, the climbing walls are good so that's some consolation.
But for day or weekend trips the possibilities are unlimited if you have transport: high class sport climbing at Kochel (also reachable by train) or Alumühltal / southern Frankenjura. Or Alpine. It would be theoretically possible to do a route in a day in (e.g.) the Kaisergebirge or the Berchtesgadener Alps if you were fit and willing to get up really early. (A theory which my mate and I plan to test in July)
There's a new selective guidebook "München Rockt" covering moderate grade cragging with day travel range. For the Alpine stuff the various "Österreich Genuss" books are good, or bergsteigen.at is a really good website if you can read enough German to click your way through the search pages.
But also as Matt said: if it's primarily a climbing trip then you're wasting your time in the city. Go to the Frankenjura or the Alps. Infinite wonderful possibilities in both places.
In reply to Toerag:
You´ve never been to Bad Heibrunn????
http://www.klettergarten-bad-heilbrunn.de/
Used to be better with the somewhat traditional bolting on the slabs which made them exciting but got severely de-tuned when they re-bolted it and no fun any more, the granite at the end is fierce with some of the nudgiest slab climbing I´ve done.
Usually a swamp at the bottom (there is a stream and it´s mostly in the shade), dirty on the slabs and full of "alpine courses" in red hats kicking rocks on your head learning abseiling and stuff.
Part of the climbing in Munich experience!
Jim
You´ve never been to Bad Heibrunn????
http://www.klettergarten-bad-heilbrunn.de/
Used to be better with the somewhat traditional bolting on the slabs which made them exciting but got severely de-tuned when they re-bolted it and no fun any more, the granite at the end is fierce with some of the nudgiest slab climbing I´ve done.
Usually a swamp at the bottom (there is a stream and it´s mostly in the shade), dirty on the slabs and full of "alpine courses" in red hats kicking rocks on your head learning abseiling and stuff.
Part of the climbing in Munich experience!
Jim
In reply to Quarryboy:
Definitely seen some pictures of climbing around Munich. The Wettersteingebirge to the southeast have some alpine stuff and long limestone slabs. Probably about two or three hours drive from Munich.
This guy has some topos: http://www.bergfuehrer-bernhard.hangl.at.tf/
Definitely seen some pictures of climbing around Munich. The Wettersteingebirge to the southeast have some alpine stuff and long limestone slabs. Probably about two or three hours drive from Munich.
This guy has some topos: http://www.bergfuehrer-bernhard.hangl.at.tf/
In reply to Quarryboy:
> I'm spending a week in Munich during the summer holidays ....
The Wilder Kaiser is within reach if you have transport. Many Germans do days out if they live near the Austrian border. See the Panico guidebooks Band 1 and Band 2. There are some fun routes on the Wildangerwand which are fairly easily reached, well bolted French style clip ups, up to 3 pitches. Or ? pull your finger out and get on the bigger walls further up the Steinerne Rinne.Without knowing more about your climbing taste/experience its difficult to suggest specific routes. Dave In reply to jimtitt:
You forgot to mention the mosquitoes at Bad Heilbrunn, although I suppose they're implicit in your accurate description of the swamp. I don't know about "world class by British standards". I'd put it about on a par with Yarncliffe. Kochel is only four kilometres further according to google maps.
I'm just reading the article about Toni Lamprecht in the current DAV Panorama where he extols the wonders of Baierbrunn - which I suspect makes Stoney Middleton look and feel like untouched virgin rock.
You forgot to mention the mosquitoes at Bad Heilbrunn, although I suppose they're implicit in your accurate description of the swamp. I don't know about "world class by British standards". I'd put it about on a par with Yarncliffe. Kochel is only four kilometres further according to google maps.
I'm just reading the article about Toni Lamprecht in the current DAV Panorama where he extols the wonders of Baierbrunn - which I suspect makes Stoney Middleton look and feel like untouched virgin rock.
In reply to AlanLittle:
Funny, I never got on with Kochel but I went there early in the development and wandered for hours searching, maybe I´ll have to give it another go one day if I´m feeling strong. Wrong side of Munich for me though, I live up near the airport so the Altmuhltal is only an hour away.
Baierbrunn-I went,I saw,I went for a beer (I´m not much of a boulderer)! Better climbing on the Isar bridges.
Spent last weekend bolting a fantastic cliff in the Allgau near Oberstdorf so not so far from Munich, maybe one and a half hours The walk-in was a killer though!
Jim
Funny, I never got on with Kochel but I went there early in the development and wandered for hours searching, maybe I´ll have to give it another go one day if I´m feeling strong. Wrong side of Munich for me though, I live up near the airport so the Altmuhltal is only an hour away.
Baierbrunn-I went,I saw,I went for a beer (I´m not much of a boulderer)! Better climbing on the Isar bridges.
Spent last weekend bolting a fantastic cliff in the Allgau near Oberstdorf so not so far from Munich, maybe one and a half hours The walk-in was a killer though!
Jim
In reply to Quarryboy: There is a bridge on which you can climb close to Munich - Info:
http://www.bergundsteigen.de/forum/viewtopic.php?id=4009
http://www.klettergruppe.dav-oberland.de/brueckentopo.pdf
I´d go either to Frankenjura or south to the alps -> you need transportation. If you´re interested in sports climbing check out (Nassereith, Tumpen Engelswand, Karres Rote Wand,...) http://www.climbers-paradise.com/klettern/sportklettern.html
Doing ferratas would also be an option.
http://www.bergundsteigen.de/forum/viewtopic.php?id=4009
http://www.klettergruppe.dav-oberland.de/brueckentopo.pdf
I´d go either to Frankenjura or south to the alps -> you need transportation. If you´re interested in sports climbing check out (Nassereith, Tumpen Engelswand, Karres Rote Wand,...) http://www.climbers-paradise.com/klettern/sportklettern.html
Doing ferratas would also be an option.
In reply to AlanLittle:
It's not just theoretically possible! This is how I normally go climbing here. In one to two hours' drive from Munich you can get to the start of the walk in for:
- central Wilder Kaiser - Totenkirchl / Fleischbank / Predigstuhl (1.5 hrs drive, 1 - 2 hrs walk in)
- southern Wilder Kaiser - Vordere Karlspitze, Bauernpredigstuhl, Ackerlspitze, Maukspitze (1.5 h hrs drive, 1 - 2 hrs walk in)
- southern Wetterstein - Schüsselkarspitze (2 hrs drive, 2.5 hrs walk in)
- northern Wetterstein - Bernadeinwand, Zwölferkopf (1 hr drive, cable car for some routes, 2 hr walk in for others)
- Untersberg - Salzburger Hochthron (1 hr drive, cable car + 15 mins walk in)
- Untersberg - Berchtesgadener Hochthron (1 hr drive, 2.5 hr walk in)
- Karwendl - Dammkar (1.5 hr drive, 1.5 hr walk in)
In fact the list of routes between 100m and 600m long which you can do as day trips from Munich is just so long that it would be possible to go on for ever.
OP: If you are fifteen then I guess you won't be driving. However, it is also easy to get to some of these - most notably the routes above Garmisch and Mittenwald - by train. Three good starter routes could be:
Kreuzwand - Ma-Ma Kante (V) - train to Mittenwald
Zwölferkopf - North Ridge (IV, descent unpleasant) - train to Garmisch
Bernadeinwand - Direct North Face (V) - train to Garmisch and then cable car
If you have got time on your hands you can also get to the Stripsenjochhaus in the Wilder Kaiser by train to Kufstein and then up the Kaisertal to the Stripsenjoch from there. If you have got enough money for a few nights in a hut then this is possibly the best introduction to the climbing around here. A handful of easy routes and countless from VI upwards. (The Wilder Kaiser and the Wetterstein are the Munich climbers' "local" just like Pembroke is for Bristol climbers.)
Another possibility if you have got a few days is the Oberreintal Hut in the Wetterstein - train to Garmisch and then long (3 - 4 hrs) walk in. Also a handful of easy routes and countless from VI upwards.
Guidebooks linked to from crag pages in UKC database.
Alex
> It would be theoretically possible to do a route in a day in (e.g.) the Kaisergebirge or the Berchtesgadener Alps if you were fit and willing to get up really early. (A theory which my mate and I plan to test in July)
It's not just theoretically possible! This is how I normally go climbing here. In one to two hours' drive from Munich you can get to the start of the walk in for:
- central Wilder Kaiser - Totenkirchl / Fleischbank / Predigstuhl (1.5 hrs drive, 1 - 2 hrs walk in)
- southern Wilder Kaiser - Vordere Karlspitze, Bauernpredigstuhl, Ackerlspitze, Maukspitze (1.5 h hrs drive, 1 - 2 hrs walk in)
- southern Wetterstein - Schüsselkarspitze (2 hrs drive, 2.5 hrs walk in)
- northern Wetterstein - Bernadeinwand, Zwölferkopf (1 hr drive, cable car for some routes, 2 hr walk in for others)
- Untersberg - Salzburger Hochthron (1 hr drive, cable car + 15 mins walk in)
- Untersberg - Berchtesgadener Hochthron (1 hr drive, 2.5 hr walk in)
- Karwendl - Dammkar (1.5 hr drive, 1.5 hr walk in)
In fact the list of routes between 100m and 600m long which you can do as day trips from Munich is just so long that it would be possible to go on for ever.
OP: If you are fifteen then I guess you won't be driving. However, it is also easy to get to some of these - most notably the routes above Garmisch and Mittenwald - by train. Three good starter routes could be:
Kreuzwand - Ma-Ma Kante (V) - train to Mittenwald
Zwölferkopf - North Ridge (IV, descent unpleasant) - train to Garmisch
Bernadeinwand - Direct North Face (V) - train to Garmisch and then cable car
If you have got time on your hands you can also get to the Stripsenjochhaus in the Wilder Kaiser by train to Kufstein and then up the Kaisertal to the Stripsenjoch from there. If you have got enough money for a few nights in a hut then this is possibly the best introduction to the climbing around here. A handful of easy routes and countless from VI upwards. (The Wilder Kaiser and the Wetterstein are the Munich climbers' "local" just like Pembroke is for Bristol climbers.)
Another possibility if you have got a few days is the Oberreintal Hut in the Wetterstein - train to Garmisch and then long (3 - 4 hrs) walk in. Also a handful of easy routes and countless from VI upwards.
Guidebooks linked to from crag pages in UKC database.
Alex
In reply to Quarryboy: There's also some bolted lines on a wall halfway up the Kofel:-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kofel
does anyone know anything about them? Someone was obviously doing more bolting or working lines last September as there was a rope rigged up.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kofel
does anyone know anything about them? Someone was obviously doing more bolting or working lines last September as there was a rope rigged up.
In reply to Toerag:
That´s Klettergarten Kofel, topo in the Ammergau guide from Panico. Reportedly reality may be different from what the book says! Mostly 7´s.
That´s Klettergarten Kofel, topo in the Ammergau guide from Panico. Reportedly reality may be different from what the book says! Mostly 7´s.
In reply to jimtitt:
On a slightly different topic... What are the rules and ethics in Bavaria/Germany on bolting new crags? I've found a few potential crags, but one in particular that looks really good, only thing is it's next to a path, but it's a non-DAV path so rarely used. Would you bother talking to the DAV first before bolting, or just locals or both or neither!? (Yes I am as clueless as I sound). Ta.
> Spent last weekend bolting a fantastic cliff in the Allgau near Oberstdorf so not so far from Munich, maybe one and a half hours The walk-in was a killer though!
On a slightly different topic... What are the rules and ethics in Bavaria/Germany on bolting new crags? I've found a few potential crags, but one in particular that looks really good, only thing is it's next to a path, but it's a non-DAV path so rarely used. Would you bother talking to the DAV first before bolting, or just locals or both or neither!? (Yes I am as clueless as I sound). Ta.
In reply to Matt Vigg: Make a new thread for this and watch the carnage ensue
In reply to JimboWizbo:
No need for carnage, I'm talking solid limestone crags in Germany in sport climbing areas, no cracks to be seen. And I'm asking about local ethics before doing anything!
No need for carnage, I'm talking solid limestone crags in Germany in sport climbing areas, no cracks to be seen. And I'm asking about local ethics before doing anything!
In reply to Matt Vigg: I'm tempted to do the same thing (climbing around Munich) as I might be there in the summer for a week. Think I'll keep an eye on this thread
In reply to Matt Vigg:
You´ve GOT to talk to the landowner and if he agrees then normally the forestry guys and then the hunters. They are very fussy and the fines are gigantic!
I´d contact the local DAV/Ig Klettern rep.
Jim
You´ve GOT to talk to the landowner and if he agrees then normally the forestry guys and then the hunters. They are very fussy and the fines are gigantic!
I´d contact the local DAV/Ig Klettern rep.
Jim
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