UKC

Sport climbing, lowering off the top anchor question

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needvert 29 Jun 2011
Hey all,

So today I encountered at the top of a bolted climb, two U bolts. Thats ok, I know what to do there.

But there was also a snapgate carabiner hanging on a chain about half a foot above the two U bolts.

IDoes the carabiner-on-a-chain serve some utility that eluded me, or is it old obsolete hardware?
 Darron 29 Jun 2011
In reply to needvert:

Quite possibly for clipping into whilst you thread the staples.
 JLS 29 Jun 2011
In reply to needvert:

Some people are happy to clip a snapgate and lower off, it's very convient. Personally I'd only be really happy to do that if I wasn't stripping the route and would so have the back-up of all the other clips and bolts.

I'm guessing one arrangement is a replacement for the other, so if I was using it, I'd be keen to known which was which.
 GrahamD 29 Jun 2011
In reply to needvert:

Maybe the bolts have been replaced and someone simply hasn't removed the original anchor.
needvert 02 Jul 2011
We did use the snapgate, just the snapgate, to lower off.

Made me slightly nervous but I was the novice climber here and figured it'd take some quite bad luck for things to go wrong.
 trouserburp 02 Jul 2011
In reply to needvert:
If the snap-gate was chained to a second bolt for back-up I would be absolutely fine with it. If on its own I'd only use it if I was feeling lucky.
Would be quicker than threading and I guess it's easier to replace a snap gate than a whole bolt when the ropes wear it down. I think snap-gates are only unusual due to their thievability

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