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via ferrata krabs

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 cas smerdon 01 Aug 2011
It is possible to buy proper via ferrata kits without the krabs but advice is that you need proper via ferrata krabs marked 'K' and not normal climbing krabs marked 'H'. Why is this? Normal screwgates are designed to hold a fall. In fact why can't you just use wiregates as you never do up the screw on via ferrata as you want to undo it again easily.

and if anyone says 'because you will die horribly' then I will hunt you down and you will die horribly!!

Just looking to save money but srill have a proper safe system.

Thanks for sensible replies
 remus Global Crag Moderator 01 Aug 2011
In reply to cas smerdon: normal climbing krabs are aluminium whereas via ferrata krabs are steel. Aluminium would wear really quickly if you used them on a via ferrata.
 simondgee 01 Aug 2011
In reply to cas smerdon:
the krabs on my vf kit (that i bought years ago are alloy but they are slide lock ie the gate is only opened when the sleeve is pulled down, a bit easier to work than twist lock. I would not use a snapgate of any kind or a conventional screwgate (as it would only get used as a snapgate without securing the gate)
The K denotes that the krabs are for via ferrata use only and not suited for climbing. Though more awkward to operate HMS twist locks would be good for use for both and wide enough. have fun.
 lithos 01 Aug 2011
In reply to remus:

not true, mine are alu (2 differmt makes) not steel
they are however

*rated at 30Kn much stronger than normal
* generally have a locking mechanism that can easily be undone
with one hand (eg a sleeve) you could try a twist lock but they aint as easy
* they have a wide gate opening for clipping onto ladders etc

in conclusion, using beefy lockers would be ok but not as good. (IHO)
 remus Global Crag Moderator 01 Aug 2011
In reply to lithos: my mistake, sorry for the misinformation.
 The Ivanator 01 Aug 2011
In reply to cas smerdon: Got a Petzl Vertigo Via Ferrata lanyard (with Krabs) used for one week in the Dolomites, not fallen on, happy to part with for £25 or £20 collected ...email if interested.
Shirebikes 02 Aug 2011
In reply to cas smerdon:

VF Krabs can be steel or aluminium

they have a min gate open of 8kN
they have a larger gate opening.

The biggest difference however is they are tested over an edge, which normal biners are not. imagine a fall on a vf, your krabs are going to hit the horizontal bolt, causing a bending moment perpendicular to the normal direction. with via ferrata biners you are safe that this has been tested. normal wiregates and screwgates have not.

they are also autolocking.

so, using normal biners, you will die horribly

at the end of the day have you not thought that if manufacturers thought it was a good idea they would have already done it...

Ed
OP cas smerdon 02 Aug 2011
In reply to Shirebikes: I have 2 twist lock biners marked F. They have wide opening. Have only recently seen the kits avaiable without krabs and assumed they were selling like that because they thought climbers would already have krabs. Doesn't seem much point if you then have to buy special krabs as it would end up costing more.
 Monk 02 Aug 2011
In reply to cas smerdon:
> (In reply to Shirebikes) I have 2 twist lock biners marked F. They have wide opening. Have only recently seen the kits avaiable without krabs and assumed they were selling like that because they thought climbers would already have krabs. Doesn't seem much point if you then have to buy special krabs as it would end up costing more.

It's possible that they sell them without krabs so that you can choose your own VF krabs to use (there are several different designs). Also, I guess there is a chance that you may want to retire the fabric parts of your system but keep your old krabs.

Having been down the same route as you (i.e. looking to get a VF rig as cheap as possible), I ended up buying the cheapest set I could find in Italy - about £25. Even my cheap VF krabs are better than using normal krabs - they have a wide gate opening (some of those cables are pretty fat) and a one-handed-opening locking gate. I don't think that risking having the gate open in a VF fall would be a good idea. More expensive krabs I have used are much easier to operate and more comfortable in use, but for occasional use, cheap and cheeful works fine.

However, I think that if i already had the krabs you describe, I'd be tempted to use them. Expect to get frustrated with the gates though - you do an awful lot of clipping and unclipping on a VF.
OP cas smerdon 03 Aug 2011
In reply to The Ivanator: Hi I am interested and have emailled. Can I buy kit?
Baz47 08 Aug 2011
In reply to cas smerdon:
All safety issues aside, on any one ferrata you could be opening and clipping both craps over a hundred times. This could be whilst hanging upside down on one arm. If you go on a two week Via Ferrata trip you would be well advised to get some one handed slide gate crabs like the Petzl Vertigo.

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