UKC

Cassin / Badile

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Anonymous 02 Jun 2003
Does anybody know, where I can get a topo or some info about the Cassin on the Badile?

Thanks for any answer!
chris mellor 02 Jun 2003
In reply to Anonymous:
Swiss Rock: Granite Bregaglia. Available through climbing shops and, to them, from Cordee. It has a description, topo (page 187) and photos of the Cassin route on the Badile. The route looks fantastic.
C.
OP Anonymous 02 Jun 2003
In reply to chris mellor: Anything on the web?
OP Anonymous 02 Jun 2003
In reply to Anonymous:

Um ... the guidebooks?

Don't know where you live, but the Alpine Club 'Bernina & Bregaglia' guide has, of course, a route description for this climb.
OP Anonymous 02 Jun 2003
In reply to Anonymous: I look for web topos / infos!
 Bob 02 Jun 2003
In reply to Anonymous:

Typing: cassin badile topo into google should give you some starters.

Bob
OP Rory Chisholm 02 Jun 2003
In reply to Anonymous:

Jürg v. Känels "Plaisir Süd" Guide has a topo for the
cassin route on Piz Badiile.

He does point out that while the belays were bolted in '99
nothing else has been so it may not be that easy even with
a topo to find the route (i.e. no shiny line of bolts to
follow - and it isn't a straight path either).

Regards,

Rory Chisholm
John Alcock 10 Jun 2003
In reply to Rory Chisholm:
You pretty much keep heading diagonally left. In other words if it looks too hard above then try traversing.
After a while the crux upper chimneys become visible and you just head towards them.
There's a choice of exits depending on how much time you've got. Really it's a question of following your nose.
Rick 10 Jun 2003
How hard is the route these days, I've been told was about VS 5a if you used a couple of aid moves, otherwise HVS 5b.
Is that still about right? Are all the stances bolted but nothing else?

Thanks
john alcock 13 Jun 2003
In reply to Rick:
HVS 5b sounds about right. Maybe just about E1 on one pitch (though that could be the weight of my sack.Don't remember all the stances being bolted. Certainly you'll want a standard rack.
it took us nearly as long to ab back down the North Ridge as it did to go up the Cassin. We kept jamming the rope.
 Carless 13 Jun 2003
In reply to john alcock:

Yeah HVS 5b - but there's only 1 pitch with 5b on it - easily aided.

Did it some years ago and most of the stances were bolted BUT for 60m ropes - so having only 50m ropes was a minor pain.

There's a load of old pegs as well, but take a rack.

Abbing down the N ridge is now easy as it's got big shiny ringbolts, tho' we did get lost at one point and ended up abbing on old tat for 2 abs before re-finding the rings.
JOHN ALCOCK 16 Jun 2003
In reply to Carless:
Funnily enough both we and another party I know lost the ring bolts for 2 abs. Strange eh?
For us the rope kept sticking in cracks when we pulled it down, so we kept having to reascend sections to free it.
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