UKC

I'd really like a pair of Petzl Quarks. They seem the business and I've climbed with other people using them. I can't justify buying a new pair though.

As a member of an HM Forces mountaineering club, I can get my hands on a brand new pair of DMM Rebels for about £185, which I know is an awesome bargain.

So the question is, do I spend the £185 on a new set of Rebels which aren't my first choice or use that same amount to buy a pair of Quarks that have had a couple of seasons use?

In reply to Freddie 1: Nothing like having your own gear from new. I handled the Rebels recently and was very impressed.

1 vote for new rebels.

In reply to Freddie 1: Why can't you justify new Quarks? Given the choice I'd save up for them rather than get Rebels, they are supposed to be decent (never used them) but are dated. DMM are supposed to be bringing out a new winter range at some point soon so you'd probably be better off waiting. Or see if cotswold will order Quarks for you then use your AMA discount to get 20% off them.

Rgds,

Col.

In reply to colk1000: Even with the discount, I reckon it would still cost me in the region of £100 more than the new Rebels. That's a significant amount of money.

In reply to Freddie 1: if you get the rebels, you`ll save money, but spend every winter looking at other peoples quarks & wishing you`d spent the extra dosh & bought the quarks instead!!!
i think you knew the answer to your post already!!

davey.

In reply to Freddie 1:

At the grade you say you climb in your profile, any axe will do. We used to climb grade VI with kit you wouldn't consider for a walk these days.

ALC

In reply to Freddie 1: Have you ever tried Black Diamond ?? I'm a big fan of their kit, I have a pair of Cobras and Vipers. The vipers I got in a sale and I'm
Waiting for the right moment to sell them. What i will say is that their kit is fantastic quality and just feels as though it was ergonomically developed to feel at one...

The Black Diamond range come at a price but in the end you get what you pay for..

I got a pair of the old style Quarks that I consider getting rid of. They have seen one season of use only. The only real wear is on the picks. I have never droppped them and they never have been used for torquing but only in ice.
Should you decide to go for the second hand option, drop me a mail with an offer. I am sure we could come to an agreement.

By the way, the reason I want to sell mine is because I want to upgrade to the axes I intially wanted to buy when I started ice climbing but I was too stingy to spend the money, i.e. BD Cobras.

Cheers,
Nille

In reply to Freddie 1:

always get the tools you really want.
you will only pine for them then buy them later, so its cheaper in the long run.

personally, i put up with enough compromise in life as it is, winter climbing is MY pursuit, the gear i use one of the few things i can be in control of, other aspects of life can make up the balance.

>want to upgrade to the axes I intially wanted to buy when I started ice >climbing but I was too stingy to spend the money, i.e. BD Cobras.

Ya good luck with that

Had both and prefer the Quark old or new, for several reasons.

In reply to Freddie 1:

I have had a pair of Rebels for about 5 years and used them for all sorts of stuff. They are unique in their i-beam construction and i think this makes them handle well. I am a confirmed gear freak but see no reason not to keep using them. They were one of the first to introduce the trigger grip style rest which the quarks now have, the only difference is the quarks is now slidey. The rebels do get scratched easily but this is only cosmetic. I also prefer the DMM picks over the petzl ones as they (DMM) give easier first time placements. Save your dosh.

In reply to Freddie 1:

You know you can actually order the tactical rebels with your magical discount card, like normal rebels but full black....so cool!

In reply to Freddie 1:

Similar conundrum here. I have used Flys for the past 3 seasons & had no problems. But compared to my mates new Quarks they seem very heavy & crap really. Although I know had I not started thinking about getting shiny new axes & drooling over my mates, my Flys would have coped perfectly fine with what I want to climb over the next winter or two.
Damned shiny new gear. its not what you NEED but what you WANT.

In reply to Freddie 1:

Think all us gear freaks are in the same boat!!

I got the Aztars a couple of years ago and have had to make drastic changes this year them to keep me from buying the new Quarks.

I have made them leashless (a big faff and cost)and bought new T rated picks for the oncoming season.

Strangely enough after buying all the bits for them there wouldn't of been much in it if I would of sold them and bought the Quarks !!!

good luck with whatever you choose

Gaz

In reply to Andy Mountains:

Having said that, if I were in your B3 boots I would save & get the Quarks! You've got at least 12 weeks until you're gonna need them, so break it down.... £8 a week extra outlay to get the axes you really want.

In reply to Freddie 1:

Bloody hell fire you've got me REALLY thinking about the Quarks now. I see Joe Browns have them for £290 a pair.
Should I sell my Flys.....

In reply to Freddie 1:

I'm going to keep going against the flow here.

Have you handled both sets of axes? Until you do so there's no point discussing price or which other people prefer.

I was looking to replace my (26yr old non-matched axes) axes a couple of years ago, everyone recommended Quarks, tried them along with a couple of Black Diamond axes, picked up the Rebels and got my card out. They felt right for me.

To follow up on my first comment - I did Orion Face Direct with this http://www.smhc.co.uk/objects_item.asp?item_id=31977 & a Camp Baltoro hammer that I can't even find a picture of but it was of similar ancientness.

ALC

In reply to a lakeland climber: I've had a play with the Quarks while out in the mountains but I haven't handled the Rebels. Living on Dartmoor, we don't have a multitude of shops selling axes. Cotswold's only pair of axes are Hornets. I'm moving to Scotland in a few weeks so I'll try to get a feel of some Rebels then.

I know there's no need to buy some new tools yet (September), but I'm spending every waking moment thinking about axes and the new possibilities of living near the mountains. I'm not sure I can wait more than a few weeks.....

In reply to smithy:

I've seen them - they look awesome, but being Rebels they're not going to stay that way for long.....

In reply to Freddie 1: shame you don't have a talented mate who works in engineering and has a multitude of methods for making them look "cool" again! :P

In reply to Freddie 1:

Not handled the Rebels but was in the position recently of owning 2 brand new pairs of axes.

BD Viper and Petzl Quark

The Quarks are still in the garage sold the Vipers.

The Quarks felt much nicer, more balanced, and a better swing.

Try them both then make a decision.

In reply to Freddie 1: "Buy nice or buy twice". Hats off to the pioneers who climbed VIs with antiquated equipment. But just cos it's possible - when there was no choice - doesn't make it a good idea (or fun) when you do have a choice

In reply to Freddie 1: Seriously? I would go for the quarks every time. Axes are built to last. If you are worried about a few seasons writing them off then you are underestimating their longevity! Buy the ones you prefer. Besides, the rebels will look older after one weekend than the quarks after a season! Either way you get shafts that will last, and and picks are comparable to replace on either.
That said, both are space age technical pieces that will probably never hold you back, so dont sweat it!

In reply to iksander: climbing without the latest equipment is definitely fun! Nothing better than soloing past a team of punters on a scottish III with their ultralight monopoints and altitude boots carrying a single axe and a cotton t-shirt ; )
But also, quarks and rebels are both fantastic axes, not antiquated equipment, and neither could ever be accused of 'holding you back' on a VI?!