In reply to fly or die:
The Rockfax guide and it will give you a good start if you go to one of the many climbing libraries they have attached to climbing walls. In short it is pretty expensive to live their. We flew out for a week, hired a car and a cottage. You can camp near Gandalf but obviously have to get all that extra kit out there, you can get away without a car too if you are really tight as you can hitch a fair bit but have to get out there in the first place. Car ferries are an alternative to air but take a good while - driving through Europe will take an age.
On routes. They are awesome, not much single pitch in the guidebook and what there were seemed as sandbags (due to the Norweigan system) however stacks of roadside multipitch. Vestpillaren is the route of the island going at about E2 5c, we didn't do it as we weren't confident enough. This was the only dissapointment of the trip. Be climbing solid HVS before you go out in order to get the most out of the area if you are there for a week else you may start running out of stuff to do (from Rockfax).
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