UKC

I'm trying to find any information about climbing on the north face of Triglav in Slovenia. Has anyone climbed there? I'm interested in maybe doing the Slovenian Route (Grade II/III). Any ideas about rock quality, protection, bivvies, approach, etc? Thanks

In reply to chick mackay:

I was in Triglav National Park earlier this year. We drove in from Mojstrana, a small village just west of Jesenice. Theres a road that takes you all the way up the valley to the refuge, how possible this will be in winter i dont know.. The roads pretty steep! However there is a marked trail from Mojstrana to the Refuge, thinks its about 20km of the top of my head.

We never actually got chance to climb the face unfortunately, the weather was poo. However we were told that the rock is generally ok with a few friable areas, its also general practice to take a shed load of pitons along too. Even in summer.

As for bivvies, i wouldnt. Stop in the refuge at the road head the night before, and make sure you do your route in a day. Theres 2 further refuges on the summit of triglav where you can spend the night.

Ive got a topo of the classic northface route "KRATKA NEMSKA" 1 move of IV, the rest II/III 800 m, 20 pitches.

Let me know if its any use to you and i'll email it over.

JP

That would be great if you could email it over. Can you do it on the forum or do you need my email address? Thanks

In reply to chick mackay:
Hi!
My first post here.I assume you want to climb this route in winter time.
Unfortunately there is no or very littel snow at the present.The best time to climb Slovenian rute is from the end of february to the end of april. When there is a lot of snow, it is more like a steep gully with some easy mixed climbing in between.Generally rock quality is not so good.As this is the most climbed route on the nort face of Triglav, there is a lot of in situ protection already, but you can take some pitons and ice screws just in case.Approach can take you anywhere from 1 up to 4 hours easily,if you have to walk all the way from Mojstrana (12 km).In that case, it is best to walk to the refuge in Vrata valley on the afternoon and sleep over nigt in a winter room.From there it will take you another hour to the base of a climb.The route it self can be done in 3 to 4 hours, so there is no need for any bivvies.The descent will take you on the other side of the mountain, so you will have to arrange the transportation from Krma valley to Mojstrana (5km).
Hope this helps a bit.

In reply to matejn:
Hi - thanks for the information it is very helpful. Is it possible to climb the route in summer or is the rock too loose? Do you have a photo or topo by any chance?

In reply to chick mackay:
It is perfectly ok to climb it in summer. This route is a mixture of walking and climbing. http://www.planinskivestnik.com/files/File/arhiv_pdf_pv_2006_01.pdf#page=69