/ First 8000m peak options
Any advice appreciated.
Not sure I fancy Cho Oyu.
Gasherbrum II ?
The dangers and difficulties of BP should not be underestimated, however, BP or G-II are both good options for a first 8000er, and a lot cheaper than Nepal or Tibet. And a far better mountaineering experience all round.
I'd thought Manaslu.
Sounds a bit more interesting (and serious) than Cho Oyu.
Anybody done it??
snow plod to start with, but gets interesting fast. much quieter than nepal, a different crowd, pakistan alone is amazing.
and you get to sit and stare at k2 every day, which puts everything into perspective.
Both are condition dependant, especially from BC to camp 1. On BP the danger is largely rock fall and to a certain extent avalanche on the lower slopes. But at least you are 'climbing' straight from the glacier. On G-II you have a long and tiring slog through the icefall, avoiding the crevasses. The climbing doesn't really begin until above C1. I prefer BP to G-II, but after the sun turns the snow to porridge they are both b****ds!
I wouldn't say Broad Peak was a great first choice if you wanted to maximise your chances of summiting (I went there as my 1st). The summit day is a very big day and contains the most technical climbing on the mountain. Don't expect fixed ropes much above camp 2 (6500m ish) - not that you really need them if you're competent and conditions are hugely variable, getting down from camp 1 was probably the most dangerous section. Having said that if you're keen for the challenge then go for it.
You won't be alone on either Broad Peak or G2. There'll be around 50 - 75 people in BC for each mountain, if not more for G2.
I would personally recommend Cho Oyu, it is a bit of a slog and if you are into the technical side of things I can see how it wouldn't appeal
But it depends on what you want to get out of it. Personally I went there to see how my body coped at that altitude and was mainly it in for the physical challenge so it was perfect for me
Why unsure of Cho Oyu? If you want to go high only you know how technically apt and experienced you are. You could go up Everest on a guided tour and need little tech experience but the cost is mega(south side).
Why not go to lower mountains 6500-7500 where you could be the only person on the mountain, cost less and experience the mountains as they should be. The main high peaks are littered with people and their litter. There are so many choices if you do a bit of research. OR alternatively go to the Andes and the lesser known 6500-6900 dirt cheap and lovely. Not including Aconcagua of course.
it all depends what youre in this for. if its to tick an 8000m peak, then go 'easy' on G2, BP, whatever. if its to build up to some particular project then the 7000m idea is great as it will allow for more technical climbing in a less diluted environment with potentially more focus on the logistics. if its the start of an attempt for all 14 then again the easy option, but maybe something in nepal where you can throw down a 6000m acclimatizing peak before hand.
if its about everest then think about the company you might use for that as building a relationship with could work for the greater process.
much depends too on how into all this you want to get. how willing are you to accept NOT summiting? how into BC life are you?
the differences between nepal and pakistan are significant and worth taking into account.
Elsewhere on the site
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
Aiming at designing and producing the best belay glasses to protect climbers’ necks, Y&Y focuses on every detail to... Read more
On Sunday 12th October the Depot Climbing Centre Leeds held its 5th annual Battle of Britain competition. The competition has... Read more