UKC

I've heard about the rockfall on this route (pitch 3?), but I don't know how much the route is affected. Can one still climb it on more or less the original line?

In reply to bpmclimb: Yep - you can climb it all the way to the second belay and it is absolutely as was. The crack that you used to climb above the belay is gone, but it's reasonably clean and climable if a little dirty and runout now. Didn't climb it before the rock fall so couldn't make a comparison, but we did manage to get to the ledge.

In reply to mike kann:

Yes. agree with this. Did it before and after.

In reply to bpmclimb:

Hi Brian

As others have said, you can follow the description as in LWV, but go straight up the crystalline crack/fault through the bulge above the 2nd belay as for Tarnhelm. I cleaned this off with John last month, and removed some loose stuff which had given Tarnhelm a bad rep. The rock's still not perfect (there's one obvious dubious but useful flake) and nor is the gear, so it's probably best to run pitches 2 and 3 together and use the belay pegs as runners rather than risk a factor 2 on them.

Although you can't top out, you can still do the top pitches above, as there is a new abseil station (rope and ring) at the top. In this case they're worth it - the climbing above the Great Ledge is possibly the best bit of the route and certainly the hardest bit of it now.

Rick