UKC

trim long arms
trim body (doesn't "balloon" when wearing a harness)
light <450g
tough-ish
HUGE HUGE hood
one (maybe two )big chest pockets
pit zips

That's it.

What'd y'all think?

In reply to iksander:

Rab's fit tends to be trim with long arms. Look at the Momentum (no pit zips but eVent breathes really well), Alpine Tour (has pit zips and possibly an even bigger hood?) and Demand (if you don't mind smocks).

The Berghaus Asgard Smock is SUPERB (i love mine to bits) and they makes a jacket version with venting pockets so I'd definitely look at that too. Gorgeous cut for climbing in and mega hood.

In reply to jadias: Hmm smock's a good idea. The demand pull on looks good but not convinced about the exoskeleton hood adjustment, I'm for ever getting slings and ropes stuck on my head and would soon get tangled in that

In reply to iksander:
My ME morpheus is excellent. All of the spec you require, good pockets and huge hood which easily fits in your head and helmet. No Pit Zips unfortunately but the big chest pockets seem to let heat out. Also very tough,I've had mine two years and I've used it on plenty of climbing/travelling trips and only shows minimum wear.

In reply to iksander: are pit zips a definite or would you be happy with event fabric? dont think neoshell goes below 500g

ME Firefox or others in their alpine slim fit
Montane Mohawk or Air
Rab Momentum


Body and long arm fit is relative so you will have to try them on, I find some a bit tight on the shoulder but good elsewhere,

In reply to iksander:

I'm fairly sure they've changed it so it's now covered. I looked at a Demand last summer which had that and a better fit than the one I tried on in the winter - I assume it was a newer version.

The Asgard Smock is literally flawless if you can find one. No pit zips but a deep chest zip to vent and I've never found it too sweaty, somehow. The full-zip jacket version has vents/pockets. Trim cut with an excellent pattern, long arms with superb gusseted armpits for mobility while climbing, huge hood which fits incredibly well, simple no-frills design, excellent fabric... hands-down the best waterproof I've ever used.

Not used it for winter climbing but Leo Houlding's team used them on Asgard and they seemed to take a thrashing so I assume they're durable, too. Most mine's ever had was a day of Cornish granite (minor thrutching involved).

In reply to iksander:

Rab Stretch Neo jacket.

Ticks all the boxes except for pit zips, it doesn't need them, Neoshell is noticeably more breathable than Pro Shell/eVent in my experience.

It's a great jacket, can't rate it highly enough.

In reply to Styx:

2nd vote for Rab Neo. Given mine some use now and I just don't think about it at all. Works perfectly.

In reply to iksander: The Mount Asgard jacket is so light I've just got one to use as a summer waterproof! I did get it cheap at their factory outlet though. Can confirm the nice trim fit although it has no pockets, the side zips are just vents. The smock in the same size seemed baggier.

In reply to iksander:

see if you can track down a westcomb neoshell jkt (our man dane did a review of it a while back).

a different neoshell to what rab, marmot and mammut have used and a sign of whats to come.

i have a jkt that fits your description perfectly (in NS, from a niche company called teton bros), pm me if youd like details.

sorry for the cryptic post. all will be explained.

In reply to iksander: Haglöfs Electron stands out for me, fantastic jacket. The Spotz is also awesome, slightly heavier but I gets therefor more durable.