/ NEW REVIEW: Alaska: Winter Climbing Expedition Gear
"If you're into your granite winter mixed climbing (ŕ la Mont Blanc massif) then Alaska should be high on your list of places to go. It's the exact same granite but just way bigger. Think Chamonix on steroids and you're heading in the right direction."
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3994
Nice little article. Thanks very much JG. I would certainly love to go climbing in Alaska - just need to get a bit fitter and a lot gnarlier!
As a Montane faithful I was wondering what people would think about wearing one of the montane extreme smocks for something like this?
Mine's done me proud in Scotland, Wales, England, Winter alps, Peru, Bolivia, Kyrgzystan. Probably encountered temperatures down to around -20C
I remember montane did a colder weather version but I can't see it on their website. Was it called "eight"?
I'm surprised about the problems with the Primus Omnifuel. I have the opposite with primus and MSR. MSR pumps seams to be a lot weaker and i have seen many with issues with the rubber pump seals and the plastic notch thingy, that holds the pumprod in place. The aluminium pump from Primus, with a leader pump seal, never seems to be a issue.
You're right, the M10 and Ascencionist aren't in Patagonia’s SS12 range. An alternative for the M10 would be the Super Pluma, their top minimalist Gore-Tex Pro Shell hard shell. And an alternative for the Ascencionist would be the Simple Guide Hoody, their lightest-weight alpine soft shell hoody (also easier to spell!). For winter 2012 Patagonia will be introducing more soft shells and hybrid jackets (eg soft shell and hard shell in the same jacket).
Great article btw, after spending some time in Alaska last year, with a view of Denali in the distance, I've been constantly dreaming of cming back one day and actually to some climbing.
A bit surprised that both stoves featured is ones that use a secondry conroller valve. Firstly they use far more spares and secondly, they are a beast to prime up in the cold and when the flame is dimmed at very cold temp they have a tenancy of stopping.That is why the XGK was invented in the first place. It has a much bigger vaporiser.
Admittedly it wont make a great fondue in the snowy mountains.
Jetboils on the other hand, an Alpinist's gift.
So why is the title 'Alaska Winter Climbing Gear' when it does not talk about climbing there in winter at all? (Not that anyone sane would.)