/ Multipitch around Cham?
Looking for some recommendations for some really good multi-pitch near Chamonix. I've already done some routes on Brevent and I have few ideas in mind but it's always best to ask for other ones!
Taking a beginner (to multipitch not climbing) so nothing too difficult and preferably with no glacier/ice/snow on the approach and descent.
We'll be bivvying as well so even better if there's a plce to sleep near by! Not much to ask I know...
There are some great routes on the Aiguille de Plaz Torrent, which you access from Le Buet. Plenty of fantastic bivi spots and it's an easy descent involving just one abseil off the back.
If it is the former, I did a really nice four-pitch bolted route on a buttress/ridge well below the Brevent only 10min walk from the middle station in 2009 with a couple of novices. Will try and find the name, but it was a great wee route. It would not be enough for the meat of an overnight trip but it would make a great 2-3 hour introduction before attempting something bigger in the Aiguille Rouge the next day.
If it is the later then you have no shortage. As a starter, the Aiguille du Pouce is utterly superb and everyone I know who has gone rock climbing up near the Envers hut has raved about it.
The one on Brevent is propably Voie Frison-Roche. It's a really good climb and only one on Brevent in that grade range I think.
I will also recommend Cocher-Cochon. Nice climbing and easy to get off on the way up if you have to. http://hasemannphotos.com/galleries/climbing/climbing-gallery-9/ I don't have a photo of the last pitch unfortunately, that is a really great one up an arete.
The routes on Pouce should be really good if you want something longer. I haven't been on it myself but I would really like to.
A lot of the routes can get busy during the summer holiday. I will recommend La Fontès de Jouvence (5c+) on Aig. de Purrie if you want to have a route for yourself. No people there when Gliere was totally crowded, and it was a nice route. Read a little photo report here: http://hasemannphotos.com/la-fontes-de-jouvence-5c-aig-de-purrie/
As has been said Aiguilles rouges has lots. Some snow patches linger in areas depending on when you go and that season's snowfall. Often access is fine with trainers and on many routes you can leave rucksacks near the base. Lots of bivvy sites within 5 minutes of Index chairlift including the old station which has lovely soft ski cushion mattresses and, being close to the lift, means you can carry luxuries!
Piola guide is great ' The Aiguilles Rouges 1'. From this bivvy site here are a few recommendations:
Aiguillette de la Floria: 6 nice 5/6 pitch routes 5b / 6a. Quick access and descent. 10 minutes from bivvy. Arete Rouge is great. Friendly first multi pitch crag.
Grande Floria: 10 5a - 6b 6/7 pitch routes. 20 minutes from bivvy. Abseil or walking descent or possibility to go up to summit via three more lovely pitches.
Pouce: Awesome big crag. 14 plus pitches. Voie des Dalles and Voie des Francaises are lovely.
Aiguilles Crochues: Many varied routes. Voie Ravanel is about 16 pitches 5c.
There are several more routes within 10 minutes of the bivvy but they are often busy. If bivvying just wait until the crowds have gone in the later afternoon and even the really popular routes can be quickly climbed with nobody else around.
Walking up to an hour in either direction from the bivvy opens up many more routes. Perseverance, Pourrie and many more.
Mid level Aiguille de Midi station has bivvy sites nearby. Sometimes some soft snow may need to be negotiated. On the Peigne slabs Lepidopteres is a lovely little climb and Arete Papillons, a great route, is more alpine in nature. The summit of the Peigne can be reached via great routes and Voie Contamine is an awesome 6a route.
Have a look at
on the BMC site. I have translated all the route descriptions on the C2C site into English so you do not even have to buy a guidebook. As C2C is a wiki type site, the descriptions are improving daily and I hope you have the chance not only to enjoy some of the routes but also perhaps improve some of the descriptions. I am putting some of them on to my Kindle, but not sure if this is the way forward yet.
Good to know, thanks. I usually get in by mantelshelfing the front access, was that boarded too?
This doesn't make sense Charlie.
Well the Vallon de Berard is the valley, not a climb. You must mean something else?
Not being pedantic Charlie. Where is it?
You seem to have deleted your posts Charlie. Did you mean L'Ile des Razmokets?
L'Ete Indien is indeed a very enjoyable climb, the valley is very quiet and the situation is great!
> L'Ete Indien is indeed a very enjoyable climb, the valley is very quiet and the situation is great!
Whole bunch of new routes there now Liz. One that goes right to the top of Mont Oreb, in fact...
> Whole bunch of new routes there now Liz. One that goes right to the top of Mont Oreb, in fact...
Jon, sounds great, are there topos available anywhere?
They should be in the new Aiguilles Rouges Vol 2, supposed to be out for the summer.
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