UKC

Looking for some recommendations for some really good multi-pitch near Chamonix. I've already done some routes on Brevent and I have few ideas in mind but it's always best to ask for other ones!

Taking a beginner (to multipitch not climbing) so nothing too difficult and preferably with no glacier/ice/snow on the approach and descent.

We'll be bivvying as well so even better if there's a plce to sleep near by! Not much to ask I know...

In reply to apd:
There are some great routes on the Aiguille de Plaz Torrent, which you access from Le Buet. Plenty of fantastic bivi spots and it's an easy descent involving just one abseil off the back.

In reply to apd: Are you thinking Severe/VS or E2/3? Some more info on grades might help.

If it is the former, I did a really nice four-pitch bolted route on a buttress/ridge well below the Brevent only 10min walk from the middle station in 2009 with a couple of novices. Will try and find the name, but it was a great wee route. It would not be enough for the meat of an overnight trip but it would make a great 2-3 hour introduction before attempting something bigger in the Aiguille Rouge the next day.

If it is the later then you have no shortage. As a starter, the Aiguille du Pouce is utterly superb and everyone I know who has gone rock climbing up near the Envers hut has raved about it.

In reply to liz j: That sounds really good, thanks!

In reply to The Ex-Engineer: Ah yes sorry, it would be around VS or French 6a bolted. I think I might know which ones you mean, there are a couple near to each other between the lift stations...

In reply to apd: Some good stuff in the Aiguilles Rouges as has been mentioned - Aiguilles du Pouce & de le Perseverance are fun. Also have a look at the Arete des Papillons on the Pelerins. For valley routes check out La Barberine just over in Switzerland - Sylvie-Phobie was good fun (in the dark...) and if you want a change of scenery the Dalle d'Amone in the Swiss Val Feret is quite relaxed but on no account climb it if rain is possible.

In reply to apd: Aig. Rouge will be a good place for that. There's an excellent guide book by Piola.
The one on Brevent is propably Voie Frison-Roche. It's a really good climb and only one on Brevent in that grade range I think.
I will also recommend Cocher-Cochon. Nice climbing and easy to get off on the way up if you have to. http://hasemannphotos.com/galleries/climbing/climbing-gallery-9/ I don't have a photo of the last pitch unfortunately, that is a really great one up an arete.
The routes on Pouce should be really good if you want something longer. I haven't been on it myself but I would really like to.
A lot of the routes can get busy during the summer holiday. I will recommend La Fontès de Jouvence (5c+) on Aig. de Purrie if you want to have a route for yourself. No people there when Gliere was totally crowded, and it was a nice route. Read a little photo report here: http://hasemannphotos.com/la-fontes-de-jouvence-5c-aig-de-purrie/

In reply to apd: It's been 16years but L'Index and the Chapelle de l'Egliere are what you're after.

In reply to apd:
As has been said Aiguilles rouges has lots. Some snow patches linger in areas depending on when you go and that season's snowfall. Often access is fine with trainers and on many routes you can leave rucksacks near the base. Lots of bivvy sites within 5 minutes of Index chairlift including the old station which has lovely soft ski cushion mattresses and, being close to the lift, means you can carry luxuries!
Piola guide is great ' The Aiguilles Rouges 1'. From this bivvy site here are a few recommendations:

Aiguillette de la Floria: 6 nice 5/6 pitch routes 5b / 6a. Quick access and descent. 10 minutes from bivvy. Arete Rouge is great. Friendly first multi pitch crag.
Grande Floria: 10 5a - 6b 6/7 pitch routes. 20 minutes from bivvy. Abseil or walking descent or possibility to go up to summit via three more lovely pitches.
Pouce: Awesome big crag. 14 plus pitches. Voie des Dalles and Voie des Francaises are lovely.
Aiguilles Crochues: Many varied routes. Voie Ravanel is about 16 pitches 5c.

There are several more routes within 10 minutes of the bivvy but they are often busy. If bivvying just wait until the crowds have gone in the later afternoon and even the really popular routes can be quickly climbed with nobody else around.
Walking up to an hour in either direction from the bivvy opens up many more routes. Perseverance, Pourrie and many more.

Mid level Aiguille de Midi station has bivvy sites nearby. Sometimes some soft snow may need to be negotiated. On the Peigne slabs Lepidopteres is a lovely little climb and Arete Papillons, a great route, is more alpine in nature. The summit of the Peigne can be reached via great routes and Voie Contamine is an awesome 6a route.

Have fun!

In reply to Mark / Alps: The Index bivi was boarded up this summer. It was still accessible, just. But they were clearly trying to keep people out so maybe they have plans for the building or something.

In reply to apd:

Hi,
Have a look at

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/article.aspx?id=4312

on the BMC site. I have translated all the route descriptions on the C2C site into English so you do not even have to buy a guidebook. As C2C is a wiki type site, the descriptions are improving daily and I hope you have the chance not only to enjoy some of the routes but also perhaps improve some of the descriptions. I am putting some of them on to my Kindle, but not sure if this is the way forward yet.

In reply to conorcussell:

Good to know, thanks. I usually get in by mantelshelfing the front access, was that boarded too?

In reply to apd: There's some really good stuff up the Berard Valley. Did the Vallon de Berard last year and it's good quality up to F5+ ish. L'Ete Indien a bit further up the Valley is supposed to be really good too

In reply to Charlie Boscoe:

This doesn't make sense Charlie.

In reply to Charlie Boscoe:

Well the Vallon de Berard is the valley, not a climb. You must mean something else?

In reply to Charlie Boscoe:

Not being pedantic Charlie. Where is it?

In reply to Charlie Boscoe:

You seem to have deleted your posts Charlie. Did you mean L'Ile des Razmokets?

In reply to Charlie Boscoe:
L'Ete Indien is indeed a very enjoyable climb, the valley is very quiet and the situation is great!

In reply to liz j:

Whole bunch of new routes there now Liz. One that goes right to the top of Mont Oreb, in fact...

In reply to Mark / Alps: The whole of the front was boarded up.

In reply to apd: Thanks everyone! Some really handy stuff...

In reply to apd: Le sapey is excellent with a great choice of routes. Can be v hot....start very early and take a helmet. I was there yesterday and after slogging up the last 150 mts of deep wet snow and mud - hilarious! (normally an easy path in summer).....was rewarded with an excellent days climbing. One team on woody woodpecker, we did entrez dans la danse(F 5c/5b) then first 5 pitches of docteur banjo (up to F6a). Enjoy

In reply to jon:

Jon, sounds great, are there topos available anywhere?

In reply to stuartby:

They should be in the new Aiguilles Rouges Vol 2, supposed to be out for the summer.