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Craig Bwlch y Moch Access Issues

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 Elfyn Jones 10 Apr 2012
Parking and wild camping issues are creating problems at Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog. Owned and managed by the BMC on behalf of all climbers, Craig Bwlch y Moch is an iconic tradtional climbing venue but unfortunately poor behaviour by a minority of climbers are creating access issues at this popular site.

In particular some climbers have been camping "wild" at the crag and abusing the generosity of the neighbours, including using the facitilites at the nearby Eric Jones campsite.

Please help to maintain good relations at this important site by only parking at the cafe car park (which is available free when the cafe is shut), not camping wild below or at the crag itself, and please do not enter the fields below the crag and do not descend by crossing the fence at the top of the crag.
There is more info on the BMC website :-
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bwlch-y-moch-tremadog-access-issues

Elfyn Jones
BMC Access & Conservation Officer (Wales)
In reply to Elfyn - A+C Officer For Wales: some people are just too effing lazy/cheap/inconsiderate.

Use a campsite whoever you are, they're not expensive and at least you won't spoil everyone else's fun!

ridiculous
 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 05 May 2012
In reply to Elfyn - A+C Officer For Wales: I'd just like to point out that this warning has not been heard by climbers. I was there on thursday and there was no litter or fires by the Vector Buttress car park. This morning I saw this.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=284113721683485&set=a.284113178...

Really, some people need to realise that their actions could have serious consequences.
 mhawk 05 May 2012
In reply to Mark Reeves: To be fair, this could very well have nothing to do with climbers. Would like to think that, as a community we are at least a little more respectful of are play areas. Worth taking an empty plastic bag to the crag to do a mini clean up with each trip though,! good for the environment and good PR.
 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 05 May 2012
In reply to rampantchopper: Whilst in the main most climbers are more respectful, some are not. This has been highlighted at this site in the past month. Also not really the kind of place a 'non-climber' would hang out.
In reply to Mark Reeves: I disagree Mark. it's highly possible that a group of teenagers with a car could drive there from not very far away in the search of 'seclusion'. I like to be a little bit more optimistic about fellow climbers behaviour.
Bimbler 05 May 2012
In reply to higherclimbingwales: I'm not so sure, I regularly see people camping there who are clearly there to climb... I'm not even sure a bunch of teenagers in a car would describe that area as 'secluded'!
 Enty 06 May 2012
In reply to higherclimbingwales:
> I like to be a little bit more optimistic about fellow climbers behaviour.

I wish I could think like you. Climbers did this at our local crag:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/elcap2011/6847682667/in/set-72157629166714018

Built a fire under two classic routes.

E
 Adam Long 02 Jun 2012
In reply:

Drove past earlier on the way to Lleyn and there was a campervan, huge tent and fire in situ. Hopefully some locals can drop in and have a word...

 Pencarth 03 Jun 2012
In reply to Adam Long:
On what grounds would you ask them to leave ? There is nothing to indicate who owns the parking spot. Why don't the BMC put up a sign saying No overnight camping ?
In reply to Pencarth:
> (In reply to Adam Long)
> On what grounds would you ask them to leave ? There is nothing to indicate who owns the parking spot. Why don't the BMC put up a sign saying No overnight camping ?

On the grounds that there's a reasonably priced campsite run by a top bloke within spitting distance?

On the grounds that having a fire in a wood is a stupid thing to do?
 Pencarth 04 Jun 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:
I agree but my point was that there should be some kind of sign there to prohibit overnight parking and that the pull in spot is private property.
This section of the old road, which is where the parking spot is, actually belongs to the farmer at Portreuddyn. I think it's highly likely that if this kind of behaviour persists he will block it off.
 Adam Long 04 Jun 2012
In reply to Pencarth:

Not having that kind of detailed information is exactly why I didn't stop myself. As I understand it this hasn't been a problem in the past, so why now? Signs or blockages should be a last resort compared to spreading a bit of information. I'm sure if every climber who passed the camp mentioned that whilst it might not be illegal, its not in the best interests of access, then we wouldn't have a problem.
 Adam Long 04 Jun 2012
In reply to Adam Long:

Just to clarify I meant 'didn't stop' as in, didn't stop the car and have a word with them. I've never camped at Tremadoc.
 Calum Nicoll 04 Jun 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> (In reply to Pencarth)
> [...]
>
> On the grounds that there's a reasonably priced campsite run by a top bloke within spitting distance?

And? This isn't a monopoly.

>
> On the grounds that having a fire in a wood is a stupid thing to do?

Why? Providing you take the neccessary precations, there's no problem.
In reply to Calum Nicoll: The simple fact of the matter is that it doesn't matter why they are there or what they are doing - they simply shouldn't be staying there overnight and leaving a mess as it is (rightly or wrongly) climbers that get the blame. Why risk jepordising upsetting the landowners and future access to one of the most popular crags in N wales just because you're too cheap to pay the (very reasonable) camp fee to a legend amongst men, (should be Sir) Eric Jones?
 Bulls Crack 05 Jun 2012
In reply to Elfyn Jones:

How very, very stupid A cr*p place to wildcamp. Ahd how the f*** do you end up in some farmers yard getting off Tremadaog? Want a night out? Go to Hyll Drem and sleep in the sheep sh*t under the overhangs.
In reply to Calum Nicoll:
> (In reply to victim of mathematics)
> [...]
>
> And? This isn't a monopoly.

No, just because it isn't obligatory doesn't absolve you from being a tw*t for not paying to camp there though.

>
> [...]
>
> Why? Providing you take the neccessary precations, there's no problem.

And you can vouch that they did?

Was it you?
Anonymous 06 Jun 2012
In reply to Adam Long:

Adam,

The campervan parked there on Saturday was ours. It was only there during the day while we were climbing and was not used for camping there overnight. We left the crag about 6pm when the rain started and headed for home. If we were going to camp at Tremadog we would definitely stay at Erics.

Ali
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Adam Long)
>
> Adam,
>
> The campervan parked there on Saturday was ours. It was only there during the day while we were climbing and was not used for camping there overnight. We left the crag about 6pm when the rain started and headed for home. If we were going to camp at Tremadog we would definitely stay at Erics.
>
> Ali

So Adam was mistaken about the campfire?
Anonymous 06 Jun 2012
In reply to higherclimbingwales:
No, not disputing what Adam said at all. Just wanted to point out that the van was purely there as transport to the crag. We did not stay overnight and had nothing to do with any campfire or the tent that was there. I've replied on here because I do not want anyone who saw our van there to associate us with the behaviour described, just because we happened to be parked at the same parking spot.

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