UKC

Last year an assessment of the existing "rabbit hole" belays at the top of Witches Quarry was undertaken. Unfortunately we couldn't get any accurate details of how these were originally fixed - it was suggested that they consisted of metal spikes somehow driven into the ground - all a bit vague really. Inspection of these anchors was also difficult as they were well hidden by the surrounding turf. The position of these anchors, (which were sited very close to the edge because the farmer didn't want holes in the middle of his field), was also not ideal as the angle of load if two were used together was generally too wide. For all these reasons the BMC NW Area decided to replace the anchors with professionally made anodised belay stakes.

This work was completed yesterday and a big thanks to all those who took a turn swinging a hammer to get them into some very difficult ground. The situation now is that:

- There are 6 sets of two stakes along the wall at the top of the crag. These should pretty much cover every climb with the exception of two locations where it was agreed that installing a 2 bolt belay station at the edge would be preferable. The farmer again stipulated that he didn't want any obstructions across his field. Climbers therefore need to run their ropes 35' across the field to reach the stakes and, given the stretch in this length of rope, should take care to sit tight on their belay.

One other job completed yesterday was the removal of the very old bolt used to protect the crux of 'Mist over witches' - it now has a shiny new 10mm stainless bolt (before anyone kicks off about this, the decision is consistent with the policy re replacing fixed gear adopted by the NW Area last year)

Finally just a short message to the d**k who nicked the hangers from one of the belay stations - these were replaced and secured against repeat theft yesterday. If you stole them to save yourself the cost of buying your own (£4) you are a truly sad individual. If you stole them because you dont agree with them being there then perhaps you ought to get down to an Area meeting and make your case, instead of behaving like someone who thinks he alone has the right to make these sort of decisions on behalf of everyone else (and who is therefore still a d**k)

Cheers

Colin

NW Area Chairman

In reply to colin struthers: I understand it was J.B ( dont want to name him without him agreeing) who had something to do with the metal stakes in the top of the cragg as a condition by the farmer. Some were hard to find and it always felt weired belayed between two of them.

Sounds like a great improvment many thanks to the BMC.

The two bolts at the top of Serenity have been missing for a while but the threaded bar was left in place (I could never understand this)if they were removed on ethical grounds why leave the threaded bar?

Mark.

When did the BMC start publicly swearing at people who disagreed with them? Why wasn't this tactic used when everyone was dry tooling on the Embankment wall at Millstone? Did I miss a memo?

In reply to ERU:

The part of the post about the replacement belays was written in my formal capacity as Area Chairman.

The message about the theft of the hangers was made in a personal capacity. I am not the 'BMC' - I'm a volunteer who happens to be the Area Chairman (also a voluntary position).

However, I am the person who installed and paid for the gear that was stolen and who has since replaced it again at my own cost. I absolutely reserve the right to call the person who did this a d**k........ and a wan*er!

In reply to colin struthers: Totally agree with you Colin. Its just a pity that the w*&%ers who did the theft dont also have the balls to come on here and say what their issue was, in public, or is it because they know exactly what the response to them would be.

In reply to colin struthers:
Thanks to you, and anyone who helped for doing this
Cheers
Nick

In reply to colin struthers:

Thanks Colin, good work and also accurate assessment of the person who nicked the bolts. The rings were always hard to find, too far apart and of a dubious history.

In reply to colin struthers: Well done Colin and to all who helped.Witches is one of my favourite crags.I agree with your personal view that any who disagree with the anchor should man up and make their point in public rather than commit theft and unilaterally take away everyone else right to choose.

In reply to colin struthers:


Tbf more posts like this would make more inclined to pay BMC subs more often.