/ Hanging Belay Station, Wiregate or Locking Biner.
Because I am a new climber and am still learning, I tend to review how the climbs went, what was good technigue and what needs further work.
I thought lockers better because that is what I was taught for top rope anchors and just insticitvely went with that, but now thinking about it, lead climbing is all wiregates and the only reason I can see for a locker is if useing clove hitches to tie in.
So the question is; at a hanging belay station ( not top / bottom rope anchors ) is it usual to use wiregate biners or lockers ?
Nothing wrong with being safe and there's nothing wrong with using snapgates either!
Whatever comes to hand, typically for me this will be a mixture of screwgates and opposed snapgates. A little bit of redundancy goes a long way, and more importantly prevents you from going a long way :-)
If the krab's in a position where the gate might be compromised, I'd use a screwgate. If it's out of sight I tend to use a screwgate. I have screwgates on slings and so those get screwgates by default.
Otherwise, wires, cams etc used as part of the belay get whatever comes to hand.
What they said ^^^
In the list of things that could go wrong whilst climbing, the failure of a wiregate where the gate is free from the rock is not high up on it.
I think the best answer is it depends. If you are using a single attachment point biner anywhere in the belay then it should be a screw gate or 2 snap gates back to back. Otherwise it depends on the quality of the other pieces if one piece is the bomber bit and the other a less good backup it may be wise to have a screwgate on the bomber bit also. However if you had 3 good bits as your belay I'd be happy with snap gates on each of those. You also need to consider how easily the gates could be opened (protrusions of rock etc)
> I have screwgates on slings and so those get screwgates by default.
Me too. I have a spare one on my harness for clipping in as well. On a hanging stance where you are shifting around, clipping ropes in and out, rearranging things as you lead through... being attached by a separate sling with a screwgate at one or both ends means there's one less thing to worry about, which means you can focus on the important stuff.
In any situation where a single failure (however rare) would be fatal I'd use a screwgate.
Mounting the barricades and sharpening their guillotines possibly ?
To add: although not ideal, you can use snapgates for clove hitches but screwgates are better for these, esp. pear-shaped ones.
It all depends. If it's a single critical point you need to take precautions against the rope getting accidentally released. If it's a redundant point it matters less and a snaplink will do. If that snaplink is in obvious danger of being opened then again you should take precautions, either moving it, turning it, doubling up or using a locker.
Some people are only happy with all-screwgate belays, some are totally slapdash, most are somewhere in between. The best advice is to think about why you're doing something, what can go wrong and what would happen if it did. The worse the consequences the more care needed to avoid that thing happening.
As I feel I have to carry enough screwgates to cover every anchor potentially needing one, I know for certain that I have enough screwgates, ergo I use a screwgate every time. I don't need to add that to the decision making en route so I don't. I have been called a safety freak though.
For me this issue boils down to there only ever being 3 reasons to use a screwgate (or back-to-back krabs) rather than just a normal wiregate/snapgate krab:
- it is a single point of failure.
- it is out of sight.
- it is in a high risk position susceptible to both being disturbed and not to be continuously loaded (e.g. clipped to my tie-in loop).
Once you have a clear set of criteria, I find it is easier to make objective rather than subjective decisions. It is also then much easier to explain your actions to other climbers.
True - Better to be able to explain and if necessary improvise rather than just relying on the dogmatic approach.
Thanks for all the polite ! and helpful replies; the test seems to be can you explain to a climbing partner your actions and in doing so any problems soon become apparent.
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