UKC

Hi All,

Can anyone recomend some non-obvious quality north faces in the Alps (i.e. longish TD-ED ice/mixed routes not in Chamonix and not the Eiger/Matterhorn). Looking at options for this Autumn and want to add some stuff other than the above to the wish list.

Cheers,

Will

In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris: Haven't done either but some of the routes on the Fiescherwand (North Face of the Fiescherhorn) could fit the bill. There's also plenty of TD/ED on the North Faces of peaks above Lauterbrunnen too, good video of the Barry-Nicholls Route on the Gletscherhorn here youtube.com/watch?v=7mykYfwtXq4& .

In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris: Not a North face, but very long and full on, the Via Brioschi on the East face of Monte Rosa has to be a fantastically impressive thing to do.

Not done it though, so don't know any more than the guide book description.

In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris: Fourastier Route on North Face of the Ailefoide, grade TD.

In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:
I'd second the suggestion of the Oberland. Gletscherhorn, Grosshorn, and Aletschhorn were excellent summer climbs when I did them in 1970s so probably good now in autumn. You say not the Eiger, but consider the Lauper which was crampons all the way in snowy conditions. The Lauterbrunnen Breithorn also looks good though I don't have personal experience of it.

Thanks for the replies so far, just the sort of stuff I am looking for.

Cheers,

Will

In reply to rif:

Don't know about Mike's suggestion of the Fiescherhorn though. On my two visits to the Schreckhorn hut, it's looked like death on a stick. However, it features quite prominently in the old AC guides - I suspect it's changed a lot since then. Have you done it Rob?

In reply to jon:
No, and haven't even seen it from close up. One of my climbing partners did a route off to one side of the Fiescherwand (Ochs? does that make sense? -- I don't have access to guidebooks just now) and found it challenging, but I don't recall whether he reckoned it was dangerous.

Rob F

In reply to jon:


I remember being in Grindelwald once, watching it appear as the cloud cleared. It was like watching the repulsive monster appearing in a horror film. I got the impression that the Eiger Nordwand was for pussies who were too timid to try the Fiescherwand (mind you the Eigerwand utterly terrified me, while not looking remotely appealing to climb).


Yes, even more of it has fallen down, probably on anyone rash enough to climb it!

In reply to Martin Haworth:

Does anyone know when this is likely to be in climbable condition? I really like the look of it (sry to hijack your thread a little)

In reply to Hannes: Often in condition in May, June, July, or even later, really depends on the year. If you go to the camptocamp website and find it on there you will see a list of dates when people have logged ascents.

In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris: Some of the Routes on the Lyskamm N Face look good (the ones with less exposure to serac fall). Schreckhorn has a TD and a TD+ on it's North Face.

In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris: there are some interesting and not too hard routes on the N face of the breithorn I tried one in June, snow conditions were decidedly funky.

Also the dent blanche n face by any route, I've been interested in the weber pillar but there are other routes further right more suited to autumn. I spoke to a sponsored German speaking climber who climbed something there and recommended it. I wouold probably take some pegs for belays

Also had a fascinating chat with a dutch woman who had cruised an number of cool faces round arolla back in the day. What you need is 1000m of Ben nevis hero neve...

Let us know how you get on

In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:

Have you considered the North Face of Monch? It's jostling for top position on my non-Chamonix list.

In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:
North color on the Ortler is impressive - bit scary but not technically hard

North face of the Gran Zebru - now with a hard mixed initial section

The new gulley climbs on the Adamello NF sound exciting in a fantastic setting

Loads of tough routes on Monte Disgrazia

There are some hard peaks in the Bernina as well, west of the main summit, with hard mixed climbing.

Loads more ...

In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris: If it's a dry autumn, the Gervasutti - Devies on the Ailefroide might be safer than in summer. In the same massif, the Meije north face has numerous options, though the harder ones also involve a lot of rock. Incredible mountain.

You really want to push the boat out? Try the Gspaltenhorn.