Don't know about this year, but you'll probably need them if you plan to descend the glacier on the north side.
We did this last year after doing the VF on the west ridge. Crampons were quite handy for the approach and for the last icy bit on the descent.
Been up it last week, rock is dry, starting to get icy on the glacier. The guides are guiding it.
On June 16th, it was a little wet on the Don Quixote and a lot of wet on the other routes. On the descent there was at least 30cm of snow.
We had ultra light running shoes and nothing else. I quess it could be a bit slippery if the glacier was dry. Short trip report here:
I checked the timestamps on my photos. Timewise it went more or less like this:
14:20 Left the office in Finland
16:05 Boarded the airplane
19:00 Arrived at Milan Malpensa and started driving
23:30 Stopped for a bivy beside the road.
5:30 Woke up and continued driving (6 hours of sleep)
6:30 Took some pics of the descent route near the lake
7:30 Started the approach from the parking
8:45 Took some pics at the Falier Hut
9:45 Arrived to the base of route and ate some sandwiches
10:15 Started climbing
14:00 Arrived to the mid ledges and changed the leading block.
(we did some "extended" pitches but no proper simulclimbing)
17:30 At the bottom of the crux pitches
20:10 Topped the route - enjoyed the view!
20:40 Started the abseils (two of them with 50m twins, towards the lake - would have been ok with a 50m single if you leave a couple of slings)
22:10 Arrived to the road
23:15 Hitch hiked a car (saved probably one hour of hiking)
23:30 Back at the car
The rack we had was one set of stoppers, Cams C3 #1 & #2 and C4 #0.3 to #2. We had 50m twin ropes, 15 quickdraws, one CamelBak each, 0,5 litre extra water bottle for the approach, some candy for food. Clothing: a Merino T-shirt, thin fleece, a 100g running wind jacket, wind stopper gloves a fleece hat and ultra light trail running shoes.
After this trip I've bought a set of small dyneema tricams but I'm not sure if they would have helped. A couple of hooks for protection would have been nice. The pitch after the crux was fairly runout.
Elsewhere on the site
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more
If asked to name a British female climber who stood out at a time when British women's climbing wasn't... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
On the run up to Christmas we have some great savings on all your favourite brands, so its the perfect time to do the... Read more