UKC

I'm lucky enough to be getting a week's climbing in Croatia from the end of next week. Should help deal with the no-climb British weather!

I've noticed there are some pretty impressive looking routes at some accessible grades, like this one at 6c:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/7/392077-largest_IMG_3195....

Whilst I'd be happy trying to lead the grade, I've not climbed anything like it before. How on earth do you clean the route after you've climbed it?

In reply to Bertbee:

As you lower off, clip a quickdraw between your harness and the rope that goes directly to your belayer. This will help keep you close to the wall as you lower. Be very careful before you unclip the last draw though - there could be a very big swing and potentially enough rope out for you to hit the floor. Make sure your belayer is prepared and that you have a plan (which will depend on the surroundings).

In reply to Bertbee: Either "2nd" (Bottom-rope by tieing into the other end of the rope), or get your mate to "2nd", removing QD's as they go minimises any problems with swinging (unless they fall near the top leaving the last few in place...)

Or as stated attach yourself to the rope, you can prob boulder up to get the last QD/2 almost from the ground if it risks a big swing.

In reply to Bertbee:

Awkwardly with much huffing and puffing.

As Monk says, clip yourself to the clipped-in rope with a draw so you can follow it down rather than lowering out into space. As things get very steep you'll find the clipped in rope bows away from the wall as you lower down it and you'll have to stop to pull in when you need to reach a clip. Judging when to stop lowering and start pulling in takes practice. Getting the clips out is a case of either pulling onto the rock briefly or opening the gate and bouncing them free of the bolt. The bottom clip is best removed before the 2nd clip, usually by hanging upside down from near the second bolt and reaching down, doing so usually gives you enough height to swing away safely. Make sure you unclip yourself from the belayer's rope before you free the belayer's rope from the bolts or it all gets very messy!

jk

In reply to Bertbee:

Be warned: on some routes, getting the draws out is harder than the climbing!

In reply to All:

Cheers for advice.

So I presume that you're either looking at losing a crab at the anchor, or there will be one in situ to lower-off?

In reply to Bertbee:

On really big roofs eg. the Grande Grotta on Kalymnos, you need to strip it in two goes - ie get the top half out by lowering off, and get the bottom half out on 2nd. Serious faff. If it is a popular route on a big roof, if you are lucky someone will have left an in situ krab, maillon, ring or similar, that you can clip your rope into as you lower down past it, which means you don't need to take such a massive swing on the subsequent clips.

clean nose quickdraws are a total godsend on these routes.

In reply to Bertbee:

There will always be something in place to lower off (or there should be). It's a reasonably good idea in some areas to have a couple of old krabs and tat - some European climbers seem to be a lot more trusting of old gear than I am! Definitely check what you are lowering off before you commit. I've seen horrendously worn threads and incredibly rusty gear at lower-offs before, especially near the sea.