/ Frankenjura top tips please
Me and my girlfriend are heading out to the Frankenjura in a couple of weeks for ten days of sport climbing.
We just got the guide books delivered, and aside from being in German, they seem really well laid out and useful but they are absolutely massive!
Does anyone have any top tips for places to visit so we can thin down our options a bit? Between us we'll climb anything from f6a to f8a, long or short, steep or technical so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
We are staying just inside the frankenjura area near Bamberg and have a hire car so can go pretty much anywhere.
Thats perfect, thanks. :)
And the weather is bound to get better.
Don´t forget to visit the small breweries in the area (Hetzelsdorf, Unterleinleiter, Weiher, Hohenschwärz,....).
For climbing I recommend the Trubach valley area, but the entire area is small enough to visit different regions by bike (no problem by car, public transport a bit harder).
Orang Utan 9- Wolfsberger Grotte is a cool route. Also well worth a visit is Schlosszwergwand this is a large crag on two levels with a mixture of vertical often a little runout routes and very steep shorter routes, it has been very busy there the last two years though and is not good if it rains.
I would say you need a car, especially in the bamberg area. Its a good 30/40 min drive to Trubach from there, action direct area is around 1 hour away. closer to you and also really good is the area around Waischenfeld, Andeltodrom is a very steep short crag which is good in nearly any weather with good routes from 7+ to 9+. A drive along this valley is a must with loads of impressive crags either side of the river.
Lots of info in the UKC destination article here:
Have a good trip!
And the Meister brewery in Unterzaunsbach!
Thanks everyone, that should keep us busy :)
The Hirschbachtal has a shed load of stuff to go at in lots of different grades in a relatively small geographical area. It's nice high-concentration climbing. Other than that though, if you've got a car or bike, then there's so much stuff to do, you can fill months!
The only thing that's a bit lacking the the Frankenjura is longer, multipitch stuff. There is some to find, but not a huge amount. Have fun, and, as somewhere said, the beer here is fantastic!
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