/ Frankenjura top tips please

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Dandan82 - on 19 Jul 2012
Hi all,
Me and my girlfriend are heading out to the Frankenjura in a couple of weeks for ten days of sport climbing.
We just got the guide books delivered, and aside from being in German, they seem really well laid out and useful but they are absolutely massive!
Does anyone have any top tips for places to visit so we can thin down our options a bit? Between us we'll climb anything from f6a to f8a, long or short, steep or technical so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
We are staying just inside the frankenjura area near Bamberg and have a hire car so can go pretty much anywhere.
Anyone?
nicg - on 19 Jul 2012
In reply to Dandan82: Bamberg area has some great crags and is much less visited so makes a nice change. Weather this year is pretty rubbish but most of the crags are dry and mostly free of seepage, we climbed all day last week in heavy rain due to the steepness of the crags.. I would say there is not really so much in the lower grades in this area, better routes tend to start in the low 8's (german not french..) some highlights from myside; Diebesloch is shortish and steep with good routes from 7+-9. Eherbacher Wand is a really good intro into steep pockets, good routes in the mid 8's but sometimes wet to the first bolt. Toni Schmid Ged.-Wand has longer slightly overhaning (compared with the others) routes on nice rock. If you can climb 8a then Downunder at Torbogen is well worth a try (the huge arch is hidden in the trees) hope you have a good visit..
Dandan82 - on 19 Jul 2012
In reply to nicg:
Thats perfect, thanks. :)

anyone else?
cb294 - on 20 Jul 2012
In reply to Dandan82:

And the weather is bound to get better.

Don´t forget to visit the small breweries in the area (Hetzelsdorf, Unterleinleiter, Weiher, Hohenschwärz,....).

For climbing I recommend the Trubach valley area, but the entire area is small enough to visit different regions by bike (no problem by car, public transport a bit harder).

CB
nicg - on 20 Jul 2012
In reply to cb294: Agree the Trubach valley is well worth a visit and is the area most people end up in on their first visit. Worth looking at would be the classic Fight gravity 8+ or if you like caves then
Orang Utan 9- Wolfsberger Grotte is a cool route. Also well worth a visit is Schlosszwergwand this is a large crag on two levels with a mixture of vertical often a little runout routes and very steep shorter routes, it has been very busy there the last two years though and is not good if it rains.

I would say you need a car, especially in the bamberg area. Its a good 30/40 min drive to Trubach from there, action direct area is around 1 hour away. closer to you and also really good is the area around Waischenfeld, Andeltodrom is a very steep short crag which is good in nearly any weather with good routes from 7+ to 9+. A drive along this valley is a must with loads of impressive crags either side of the river.
In reply to Dandan82: Hi,

Lots of info in the UKC destination article here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2742

Have a good trip!

Jack
John W - on 20 Jul 2012
In reply to cb294:
> (In reply to Dandan82)

> Don´t forget to visit the small breweries in the area (Hetzelsdorf, Unterleinleiter, Weiher, Hohenschwärz,....).

And the Meister brewery in Unterzaunsbach!
Dandan82 - on 20 Jul 2012
In reply to everyone:
Thanks everyone, that should keep us busy :)
Epic Ebdon - on 21 Jul 2012
In reply to Dandan82:

The Hirschbachtal has a shed load of stuff to go at in lots of different grades in a relatively small geographical area. It's nice high-concentration climbing. Other than that though, if you've got a car or bike, then there's so much stuff to do, you can fill months!

The only thing that's a bit lacking the the Frankenjura is longer, multipitch stuff. There is some to find, but not a huge amount. Have fun, and, as somewhere said, the beer here is fantastic!

Tim

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