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Climbing in New Zealand

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aecoombs 24 Jul 2012
Hi Guys,
I new to UKC but thought I'd try and get some knowledge from the vast quantities of well travelled people who use the site. Im moving to New Zealand for a year at the beginning of next month, in a town called Tauranga, North Island. I've recently started climbing this year and almost ready to start leading VS 4c level climbs. Im keen to keep the momentum going in New Zealand and wondered whether anyone could give me any insider information? Especially things like, where is good, distances between places and the crag, what sort of stuff from the rack do you use alot of over there?
Or if anyone is out there at the same time and needs a partner who is climbing that level to let me know!
Regards
 KiwiPrincess 24 Jul 2012
In reply to aecoombs:

Hello
I used to Live in Auckland.
I climbed Quite a bit in the North.

Kawakawa bay is a new location.
Whanganui bay " the bay" has good climbing in a Maori Communty down a long private road( small access fee)
Waipapa dam is Good.
Froggatt, smiths, Baileys etvc aree OK, Very developed sport.
Bryces climbers lodge, cafe and gear shop is a good pplace to Visit. Bryce has Climbed all over the area for decades so can tell you anything you want to know. He is lovely But gruff.

I used More finger sizes But had up to Cam 4. I don't Know of any one that had pitons etc up there. Most people will be sport climbers only.

There is climbing in the Karangahape Gorge. Never been but it sounds adventurous.
Take a Longer trip to Taranaki- Looks amazing( tradlines)

Search for freeclimb, online guides. I have an OLD 1991 Central north island rock guide which My Mother sent me another second hand copy so Could Send you when you arrive if you pay courier

Most places will Be 2-3hours drive
Tauranga has some keen climbers and a Gym called the rockhouse.
sankster 25 Jul 2012
In reply to aecoombs: hi, i live on the south island and don't really know the north that well, but paynes ford near takaka and mt sommers in canterbury are great places to climb, and wanaka is worth a visit, all if you're heading south. You'll love nz
 glaramara 27 Jul 2012
In reply to aecoombs: Alright. I'm going out there end of august for about 2 years and moving to Hawke's Bay, north island. More keen on alpinism than cragging but would be up for sun kissed rock as well....
 diddler 27 Jul 2012
In reply to aecoombs:

Another vote for kawakawa bay and whanganui bay, by far the best two places to climb on the north island in my opinion. both beautiful locations aswell.

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