UKC

Not to discuss ethics, blah blah blah.

simply to ask, does anyone know of any Crags uk or abroad, where chalk is banned, like it is in Font?

In reply to lm610:

Have you been to font? I know that historically chalk is frowned upon, but the boulders are most certainly not chalk-free!

In reply to lm610: not a topic of if people use it or not. But just wanting to know where it affects access agreements

In reply to lm610:

There ar 3 routes at Eridge Green where chalk is banned (but climbing allowed) to protect rare mosses from a change of pH as I understand it.

NB on large parts of the same crag climbing is banned

In reply to lm610: I don't know of anywhere.

In reply to lm610: All of the sandstone pillers in Easten Europe.

In reply to Blinder:
And most of Elbe sandstone in Germany.

In reply to lm610:
THat pebbly crag neear Aachen(whose name I always forget). As soon as the right pebble has a dab of chalk on it, the grade drops substantially. Wihtout chalk, it's a matter of searching the hundreds of pebbles within reach to find the one that has a usable hold behind it.

In reply to nniff:

The climbing in Utah's Maple Canyon is often like that too, except that the rock is very light so the chalk is hard to see - and then when you do see chalk it's often a red herring because people have tried and chalked every possibility, most of which are rubbish.

Great routes though!

In reply to lm610:

Shipley Glen seems to be chalk free at the moment

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Dont believe you...none at all under all the roofs? Even Guisecliffe had some chalk when I went there a couple of weeks back and I thought that was famously the most chalk free big crag in Yorkshire.

In reply to lm610:

Dover?

In reply to Offwidth:

OK, there is actually loads on the never-rained-on holds, but the whole crag has a rather neglected air. I know it's a wet summer, but I expected that being so accessible, my local crag (a short walk from my door now) would see a little more attention.

My attitude towards the Glen has (of course) changed dramatically. While I can't wax on about the beauty of the surroundings, the climbing is superb and plentiful. In fact, I'm going to go for a boulder now.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

All the easier stuff at Shipley is on our list soon when the 1st YMC volume is finished. Last time I was there was a flying visit after my mate Jeff badly sprained his ankle at Caley (from a slip at 1' on the Benign Bumbles circuit !} and after buildering a bit at the hospital in Leeds, Pete and I decided we needed a final 'hit' before we headed back south. I was very impressed; we blasted through about 40 problems whilst Jeff sunbathed and tried to get sympathy from some local girls at the top.

In reply to Offwidth:

The easy highballs like Kestrel Crack, Glen Arete etc are excellent; the V3-ish aretes, especially Vim, are also brilliant, but I haven't tried any of the harder stuff yet, I'll wait until the bouldering season begins. The hard undercut starts to the wall climbs can be a bit annoying though, and the greenness is putting me off doing any of the real highballs. Quite midge-free too since there aren't livestock about, so while it does have a fair amount of broken glass and so forth, it's certainly a good crag in my (revised) opinion.

In reply to Offwidth:

Are you sure it wasn't bird shit

In reply to Toreador:

There was vastly more bird shit than chalk.. clearly some owls around! You climbed anything there?

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Cheers: sounds like it hasn't changed much

In reply to lm610: Don't know of anywhere. Used far too frequently an on so many low grade routes where it makes no difference.