/ clip stick and quickdraw match

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Tommyads on 01 Aug 2012
Does anyone know if the following work with a clipstick?

Dmm alpha trad
Wild country helium
Any other clean nose wiregate.

Cheers
Chi Cheng - on 01 Aug 2012
In reply to Tommyads:

Hey hey,
If your clipstick is a beta stick. Mine works very well with Alpha Sports; as the Alpha sport and trad are the same shape as each other they will work well.

not sure about the other ones. You may have to bend the wires on the clipstick to get it to hold the gate open.

Hope this helps.
Chi
Tommyads on 01 Aug 2012
In reply to Tommyads:
Thanks man,

I wasnt sure because the clean nose wire gates bend in and so are quite narrow. I thought maybe too narrow for the clipstick wires.

If not a beta stick what else is there? I am using a friends beta stick just now.
Chi Cheng - on 01 Aug 2012
In reply to Tommyads:
Hey

There is home made sticks
Trango Squid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viby2fx6hZ8
And there is a few others out there.
Morgan Woods - on 02 Aug 2012
In reply to Tommyads: Keep in mInd the beta design can go around solid gates and fit between wires gates if that makes sense.
thebigfriendlymoose - on 02 Aug 2012
In reply to Tommyads:

DMM Alphas fit into a clipstick but, when new, the gates can be too stiff to be reliably held by the retainer. When I use them, the gate often closes midway through clipping.

The problem seems to diminish with use as the gates get worn in. But it is worth bearing in mind if you are clip-sticking all the way up a route. Maybe make sure you have a few wire-gates to avoid having to faff about (lowering down to retrieve a QD from lower down or trying to use the Velcro strap).
Quiddity - on 02 Aug 2012
In reply to Tommyads:

The spring/gate on the beta designs stick can be bent a little to make it a bit grippier on solid gates.

It definitely works fine with the WC helium and on pretty much most other conventionally shaped wiregates - eg. it has trouble with the DMM shield.

As Morgs has said, on wiregates you arrange the spring so it sits inside the wiregate, rather than around the outside like you would on a solid gate - very secure in this orientation.
Tommyads on 02 Aug 2012
In reply to Tommyads:

I never thought to put the beta stick wire through the wire gate carabiner. I will have to try it!

Found this http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3999

It has a table of what works with a beta stick and what doesn't. WC Heliums dont :(
ericinbristol - on 02 Aug 2012
In reply to Tommyads:

The table is definitely wrong. WC Heliums work great with a Beta clip stick. Indeed, putting the clip stick prongs inside the wire gate is really secure and yet still detaches comfortably once the bolt has been clipped.

I find that the Beta clip stick also works well with DMM Alpha Sport (solid gates), including new ones, although they are a bit hair trigger at first when the krabs are brand new.
Quiddity - on 02 Aug 2012
In reply to Tommyads:

> It has a table of what works with a beta stick and what doesn't. WC Heliums dont :(

Yes they do. The table is wrong. The spring needs to be inside the gate which may be where the confusion comes from.
cha1n on 02 Aug 2012
In reply to Tommyads:

I find it interesting that the table states the Spirits work as my spirits are the worst crab that I'ved used with a beta stick and ping closed constantly whilst trying to clipstick up a route.
Quiddity - on 02 Aug 2012
In reply to cha1n:

bend the spring on your clipstick slightly by squeezing it, mine works fine with my spirits but you need to increase the spring tension a tad.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Chi Cheng - on 02 Aug 2012
In reply to Tommyads:
Yep, my friend has Sprite and had to pinch the retainer on his clip stick to make it work.

Think the new ones have groves where the retainer will sit better.

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