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Topic - Protection for "parallel" vertical cracks

martinph78 on 25 Aug 2012
I'm leading more and more but finding quite a few places where I need to place gear but can't get anything to stick. I have hexes and nuts, but in vertical cracks that don't narrow to allow them to chock, and are wider at the front than the back, I obviously can't get them placed. Usually finger width or thereabouts sized cracks. I seem to be coming across a lot of them lately and whilst I don't place gear for the sake of it I do want to have faith in that gear I do place as it is usually before a big move or the crux.

Unless anyone has any other ideas (apart from top roping lol) am I left looking at cams? I don't fancy those for the type of cracks I'm on about either and can't really afford them (I class them as "specialist" kit in that they have one single use, unlike the rest of my rack that can be stacked, used in several ways etc).


Open to suggestions and friendly advice appreciated before I waste my limited budget of zero :o)
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