/ Where to find low grade climbing and kayaking in the Wye Valley

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Louise Stone - on 12 Sep 2012
Can anyone advise on where I can find a climbing site that is near a grade 1 kayaking site in the Wye Valley area? Ideally with decent climbing including lower grades.
gingerdave13 - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to Louise Stone: Wouldn't this fit symonds yat to a tee?

campsite, pub, canoeing (plus hire) and climbing all in the one place.. Just watch out for well used lower grade routes.
The Pylon King on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to Louise Stone:

Symonds Yat - the best crag in the Wye valley
Tommyads on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies:
> (In reply to Louise Stone)
>
> Symonds Yat - the best crag in the Wye valley

You have to be joking?
Louise Stone - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to gingerdave13: Symonds Yat sounds like the place for climbing, but the kayaking is grade 2, so might need to travel a bit to combine activities. Thanks folks.
John Willson - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to Tommyads:
> (In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies)
> [...]
>
> You have to be joking?

Mr MSD was until very recently some variation of a pylon king. Should answer your query.

Ross B - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Louise Stone:

It might be grade 2 in the book, but its an absolute doodle, and have reguarly taken people down it as an introduction to white water
The Pylon King on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to McKEuan:
> (In reply to Louise Stone)
>
> Symonds yat is complete crap. Muddy, dirty, dusty route. Unless its dry the walk in/out is a pain. Avoid. Go to shorn cliff to climb

but your logbook says this about the route Exchange at SY:

"Best VS i have ever climbed! awsome fun"
McKEuan - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Louise Stone:

Before you get all smart, check the date of that entry. Havent been since.
Rob Exile Ward on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to McKEuan: I'm not a huge fan of Symonds Yat (sorry Mark!) but it's not that bad and yours is a particularly unpleasant post.
McKEuan - on 26 Sep 2012
Ummmm in what way??
The Pylon King on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to McKEuan:

you went back two weeks later.
McKEuan - on 26 Sep 2012
Pathetic. This whole debate is because you won't allow people to have their own opinions. A few people have said they don't like SY and then they get blasted by you. Get over yourself.
The Pylon King on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to McKEuan:
> Pathetic. This whole debate is because you won't allow people to have their own opinions. A few people have said they don't like SY and then they get blasted by you. Get over yourself.

Ha ha ha,

But you seemed to like it, according to your logbooks. I dont care either way if somebody likes or dislikes a crag but SY seems to get a lot of bad press and i am simply trying to address the balance.

It is simply no where near as bad as people suggest.

Sorry to upset you.
McKEuan - on 26 Sep 2012
Love a good internet argument. Let's call it a draw. My main issues with SY is that in recent months it has become dirty and the majority of routes lack substance, plus its being brutalized by groups who have raped all the easy lines. Hence my objection of it being a good crag for newbies. I suggest somewhere less populated which hasn't had so much traffic
gingerdave13 - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Louise Stone: i wouldn't worry about the rapids - they are dead easy. However, if you take the option to explore you can do a 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 day trip from waaaaay up river.

Had a great time going from Glasbury all the way to symonds yat (80 odd miles), with fully laden canadian. Camping at several sites on the way back in April.

None of it is scary and the vast majority is flat river until the 'rapids' at symonds yat. So you'll be paddling lots and getting some good arm work in!

Have even been back recently for a stag do and did whitney to hereford camping at Bycross farm.
gingerdave13 - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to gingerdave13: also - you can go through to monmouth without issue - but i think it's after there that it gets tidal so can become more interesting for getting out of the river and paddling.
bpmclimb - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to McKEuan:

You are making very confident assertions about a crag you have relatively little knowledge of.

Going by your logbook, you have done a grand total of 13 routes at SY. Comments like "the majority of the routes lack substance" have to be based on a reasonable depth of experience at a crag, otherwise they are just hot air, I'm afraid.

Likewise, saying that all the easy lines have been "raped" is a gross overstatement. The easier lines at Introductory Rocks and parts of The Far South Buttress have suffered from group use, but SY is a very extensive crag, and many lower grade routes remain polish-free. I notice that you recently tried White Hart - did you not notice the collection of polish-free VDiffs at Waterpipe Bay?
Rob Exile Ward on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to McKEuan: You've deleted the post that I was referring to! Pathetic.
The Pylon King on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:
> (In reply to McKEuan) You've deleted the post that I was referring to! Pathetic.

Its all getting very suspect!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Tom Last - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to McKEuan:


Symonds yat is complete crap. Muddy, dirty, dusty route. Unless its dry the walk in/out is a pain. Avoid. Go to shorn cliff to climb

I've only climbed at SY once years ago, so can't really comment on its suitability, but my abiding memory of Shorncliff was that as a beginner it was a pretty alarming place, with the steep muddy top out, littered with loose rocks and diving between trees to find suitable abseils etc.It's been a while though, so perhaps memory fails me.

I reckon Fly Wall at Wintours Leap is pretty good though, although not sure how much sub vs stuff is there?
scott titt - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:
It was such an unpleasant post it has in all probability been removed by a mod (a decision I support).
bpmclimb - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to Southern Man:
> (In reply to McKEuan)
>

> I've only climbed at SY once years ago, so can't really comment on its suitability, but my abiding memory of Shorncliff was that as a beginner it was a pretty alarming place, with the steep muddy top out, littered with loose rocks and diving between trees to find suitable abseils etc.It's been a while though, so perhaps memory fails me.
>
Yes, I think these characteristics are common to most "limestone in the wood" crags. If you climb regularly in the area you just get used to it.


> I reckon Fly Wall at Wintours Leap is pretty good though, although not sure how much sub vs stuff is there?

Moth at HS is the only sub-VS route, if memory serves. I'd also have to say that the crag base there is narrow, and muddy after rain, when it's a bit worrying in a couple of places.

McKEuan - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

I havent deleted anything??
McKEuan - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb:

Just because I don't feel the need to log every climb i do doesn't mean I havent done any. Symonds yat is an overated crag with little interest once you've been there a few times. I tried to be nice but all you weekend climbers keep on having to pop up and try and argue. I hate symonds yat. its shit. The purpose of this post was asking what it was like. I Gave my opinion and have had a bunch of old men who think the wye valley and symonds yat are gods gift to climbing jump down my throat. I dont care what you think, your opinions do not matter to me. There are very few crags in the wye valley that I do climb due to its muddy and crowded status, I offered shorncliff because not many people climb there and the rock quality is good.
fred99 - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to McKEuan:

You evidently DIDN'T read the original OP properly, because it asked for climbs in the lower grades, something which ShornCliff, however much I might enjoy it, is rather short of. It's good at stiff VS to HVS.

Furthermore, because of this summer's weather - constant rain - a number of areas at ShornCliff have become more dangerous - hardly the sort of place to take people climbing in "the lower grades".

I don't know what you regard as lower grades, but I (and probably most people) think here of VD to HS at best - of course, you might think HVS, but that is not what the majority of people climb at.

Far too many people try to push beginners at ShornCliff - what are you trying to do - increase the injury figures ?

And as for getting personal - "a bunch of old men". One day you might mature, and then you'll see that your puerile slagging-off, both of this particular venue (Symonds Yat), and also a number of far more experienced and knowledgeable individuals, shows you in a rather bad light.
The Pylon King on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to McKEuan:
> (In reply to bpmclimb)

ROTFLOL!

Who's pathetic now?

> I tried to be nice but all you weekend climbers keep on having to pop up and try and argue.

Who are they? i climb during the week as bpmclimb does.

> I hate symonds yat. its shit.

Incorrect. you don't like it but others do.

> The purpose of this post was asking what it was like.

No it wasn't - it was asking about low grade climbing and canoeing in the Wye.

> I Gave my opinion and have had a bunch of old men who think the wye valley and symonds yat are gods gift to climbing jump down my throat.

What do you mean by old? Do you mean experienced? something you are obviously not.

> I dont care what you think, your opinions do not matter to me.

Thats fair enough and as i said before i am sorry to upset you, especially being so young and full of it.

Now f*ck off.

;)
McKEuan - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies:

I have not slagged anyone off or sworn at anyone so refrain from doing so at me.

To start with I stated an opinion of Symonds yat from my point saying that I didn't think it was a good crag, maybe I didn't read the original post properly but my answer was that there are better crags. I have been to shorncliff once and from my recollection it was good. Did my first trad lead there. If we are counting age as experience I think you will find that there are some elderly climbers out there doing things in a way that bow adays would be thought as as wrong. Don't mistake arrogance as experienced. Just because you take a good picture doesnt make you king. I have an opinion of Symonds yat that you don't like, deal with it don't try and shout me down saying I'm wrong. It's an opinion and I will stick to it.
Rob Exile Ward on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to McKEuan: You made a post where you referred to canoeists who maybe weren't very good as 'spastics'. I thought that sort of offensiveness had been (rightly) unacceptable for 20 years or more.

Just as a mattter of fact, judging from your logbook, and by any reasonable standard you're not a very competent climber. You might choose to reflect on that before you inflict your opinions on other people, who may be less well qualified to judge their worth than Mark or myself.
McKEuan - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

Wrong word i know, But from experience of running groups on yat rapids and constantly having to rescue day trippers I know just how congested and irritaing those rapids can be.

As for my competency as a climber have you ever heard of the exspression don't judge a book by its cover?? Before you go bashing me about my logbook just know that Rarely log climbs, in truth i can't be botherd to, the last climbs i logged where in august and I only logged a couple, before that may??

As for me having a go at you and Mark, i believe mark started it? I stated my opinion. Him, being the self proclaimed rock expert, shouted down my opinion. I responded. He didn't like it again. You may just be sticking up for him and i'm not going to start a round of who started what.

I'll reiterate that it's my opinion and i won't change it because you lot are trying to belittle me and making snide remarks about my logbook and suchlike. If it offends you that I don't keep my logbook up to date for people like you to browse and judge then sorry.
McKEuan - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

Also what is a reasonable standard?? Just because I don't, and i'll admit, don't have the donkeys to try E numbers does that make me an incompetent climber? I don't think so. Maybe, sir, you might chose to delfate your head a little when it comes to judging others.
The Pylon King on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to McKEuan:
> (In reply to Rob Exile Ward)

> As for me having a go at you and Mark, i believe mark started it? I stated my opinion. Him, being the self proclaimed rock expert, shouted down my opinion. I responded. He didn't like it again. You may just be sticking up for him and i'm not going to start a round of who started what.

Total rubbish, i never shouted down your opinion, i was just confused as you stated that SY was rubbish but then in your logbooks you claimed it was great.
I do think SY is a reasonable crag; I have certainly never proclaimed to be a rock expert. I have climbed about 250 routes at SY through all seasons and have a pretty good idea what its all about, yes, very aware of its very obvious bad points and, thankfully, the many good ones.

I actually feel your response to the OP was ignorant and misguided. simple.

and WTF has my photography got to do with it? - it is COMPLETELY irrelevant.
McKEuan - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies:

Yes but whenever I did refer to my opinion you suggested that I was wrong, and then when you had nothing better to argue about decided that insulting me as a climber would be better than realising that not everyone feels the same way as you about symonds yat. I will admit I did enjoy the exchange good climbing, just seemed that every other climb I did that day was dirty and slightly boring.

And how can my original response be misguided when it's my thoughts on the crag not something I have read so certainly not iggnorant either.

You photography is yes slightly irrelevant. Not sure why i meantioned it...
climber_medic - on 28 Sep 2012
In reply to McKEuan: Dont worry mate Mark has an opinion on everything and then emails abuse at you if you dare to argue against it. He then deletes photos of his mate and himself pegging a route having bitched about boulderers leaving chalk on problems.

And Symonds Yat is shit. So much so that I burnt the guidebook.

There you go thats my post for the month done then.
McKEuan - on 28 Sep 2012
In reply to climber_medic:

I rest my case ;)
stvredmond - on 28 Sep 2012
In reply to Louise Stone: just to provide added support to your case. have travelled to symonds yat a number of times. walked along those paths with my kit intending to climb and just think whats the point it all look rubbish and doesnt makle you motivated to climb there.

I love that place so much i have since sold my guidebooks and never intend to go back there
The Pylon King on 28 Sep 2012
In reply to climber_medic:
> (In reply to McKEuan)

> Dont worry mate Mark has an opinion on everything

Yes, true, a crime, whats wrong with a bit of arguing?

> and then emails abuse at you if you dare to argue against it.

No, i emailed you when you accused me of pegging a route and various other things that i did not do. i emailed you to keep it off the forums. no abuse apart from WTF.

> He then deletes photos of his mate and himself pegging a route having bitched about boulderers leaving chalk on problems.

Yes, I deleted the photo (not of me doing anything - i didn't put any pegs in and i didnt realise there was a law against pegging new routes anyway?) I delete many of my photos, WTF has that got to do with chalk on boulders?

> And Symonds Yat is shit. So much so that I burnt the guidebook.

I am really really pleased you have done that - it means there's one less tosser down there.

> There you go thats my post for the month done then.

Prat

The Pylon King on 28 Sep 2012
In reply to stvredmond:

> I love that place so much i have since sold my guidebooks and never intend to go back there

Good riddence
The Pylon King on 28 Sep 2012
In reply to climber_medic:
> (In reply to McKEuan)

And actually i deleted the said photo because of all the totally bollox comments you put on it. it was vile.
climber_medic - on 28 Sep 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies: 2 replies with "Vile" language. Ambassador you spoil us with your attention whoring.

My work is done here.

Toodaloo
ads.ukclimbing.com
The Pylon King on 28 Sep 2012
In reply to climber_medic:
> (In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies) 2 replies with "Vile" language. Ambassador you spoil us with your attention whoring.
>
> My work is done here.
>
> Toodaloo

Good boy, back under your stone to dream up more accusations.
climber_medic - on 28 Sep 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies: Nah I think i'll hang around a bit seeing as your biting so easily. I see you like to give it out to people but aren't too keen when your on the receiving end.

Suck it up Princess
The Pylon King on 28 Sep 2012
In reply to climber_medic:

I love it, i thrive on it, bring it on you bad boy!

But exactly what am i giving out and receiving?

I was having an argument about something with someone when you just wander up and start bad mouthing me and stating all your accusations again - accusations that i have already established were unfounded.

I am really bored of this bickering now and will no longer be looking at this thread so if you've really got such a problem with me then just email or we could meet up.

Love and Hisses.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.