UKC

Hatching winter Alpine plans. Is Supercouloir in a weekend feasible? I know plenty of people take the first cable car from Cham, ski to Gabarrou-Albinoni or Modica-Noury and climb the same morning with no problem. I presume Supercouloir is also possible although am concerned that the route may take longer to climb with the rock or mixed pitches at the start? I have also met people who have experienced rockfall on this route so question whether an earlier start is prudent to avoid? No replies re acclimatisation please as I know where I stand with this, thanks

Cheers for advice in advance,
Lee

In reply to Mr. Lee:

I think it depends whether you want to go to the top of the Supercouloir or just abb off after the main difficulties (which many do nowadays), return to the skis and ski down the Valee Blanche. When I did it we went to the top, but that meant no skis and we bivouacked on the way back to the telepherique. But another party behind us abbed off and presumably made it down in the day. It was March by the way.

In reply to Andy Nisbet:

I was likely thinking about ab'ing off above the main difficulties and then heading down Valee Blanche.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

The direct M6+ start looks pretty testy to me.

In reply to rosmat:

Yes it looked hard and just verglas on the day. We started up the Gervassutti Pillar on the right and it didn't seem to spoil it. Not going to the top would have though (for us).

In reply to Mr. Lee: I'd be surprised if you managed without some acclimatisation? You'd also be lucky to get the weather.

One of those "in theory could work" but many things have to come together for it to happen.

In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Re the start, the Gervasutti Pillar start seems by far the most frequented? The direct start seeems to need good fortunate to be properly in condition from what I understand. I'm not overly bothered which start, but probably the line of least restistance in the given conditions (likely Gervasutti Pillar start).

In reply to Fultonius:

I've done stuff before on Tacul NE side with no acclimatisation so not too concerned. I'd be slower but my head is always ok.

Obviously I would need good weather at the right time but there is always ice climbing in the valleys if the weather is bad high up, so not a total distaster not on. My main concern would be objective dangers with waiting until the first lift, such as rockfall. Supercouloir always looks largely in shade so I assume it does not have a significant rockfall issue?

In reply to Mr. Lee:

There was no rockfall when I did it (March early 80's)

In reply to Mr. Lee: HAven't actually done the route, so not sure. Just struggled badly with lack of acclimatization on the Fil a Plob. Give it a bash!

In reply to rosmat: Is there a lot of fixed pro on the direct start?

In reply to Mr. Lee: The acclimatisation bit might be your killer in that you would be slower than usual and the pillar start might feel hard at VS doing it in ski/climbing boots (if the fixed rope isnt on it.) Suppose you could just ab off whenever you wanted though, but you would have to go and try again!

Would you fly in on friday afternoon or something?

I was speaking to some guys who climbed the north face of the matterhorn on a weekend hit and also some other routes so if you are good it would be fine.

In reply to smithaldo:

I would fly on a Friday. It seems to have become a regular yearly challenge of mine to try and climb an Alpine route in a weekend. Totally silly I know and if I had more holiday allowance to do everything I wanted then I would of course take a week off. As long as there's a plan B then I'm happy, which could be a shorter route, valley ice climbing, or even le Zoo if the conditions/weather not best.

In reply to Mr. Lee: There was no rock fall problem when I did it, April 1994, we did the start up the pillar. The direct start looked nails and had a reputation at the time. A mate of mine who sometimes posts on here, Nick Donohue, has done the direct start and told me that it was spicy!
Good route, hope that you enjoy it..........GD

In reply to Ginger Dave:

Anyone done this in November? Just wondering as i have potentially a week free but obviously daylight may be a bit of an issue. Anyone know how it forms earlier in the year? I hear conditions are good right now on some ice routes.

In reply to Mr. Lee:
Can be done Mate, Ive managed to do both the Matterhorn and Eiger in a weekend trip, You have to be lucky with the weather and I did suffer a little with altitude but well worth it, was home for sunday roast, although had to heat it up in microwave.

In reply to kevin stephens:

There is a bit of fixed pro on the direct but plenty of opportunities for trad gear and defo not a clip up unless you're Ueli! I thought it felt pretty safe and Scottish VII 7 at the most. We had good nick though with some good useable ice. Amazing climbing.

I think a lot of the weekend question depends on nspeed and ability and also if you're going to the top of the Tacul.

In reply to Mr. Lee: Better get some training done on the chalk big man. However, with -18 forecast for a very cold scotland this winter looks like we'll be bashing out a few London to Scotland drives if your still game.

In reply to Mr. Lee: one problem for you may be the midi lift on a saturday morning. if you dont get yourself organised with a pre booked ticket and a first lift booking you might find yourself not getting up till midday if it is really nice weather and the vallee blanche is in good nick, especially if you just tun up in the morning.