/ Trad protection on a seawall....
Me and my climbing buddy have been top roping on a seawall in our home town for a while now (yes its the best our local climbing has to offer) It's surprisingly quite varied route wise and has a couple of crack lines going up and several other routes too.
I have been eyeing up a long traverse route that you could protect using small cams (DMM 3cu) or maybe tri-cams but I wanted to check that these will work safely in the gaps between the mortar, The wall is made of granite and is obviously very solid being a seawall. Are the cams likely to "walk" more in the gaps?
Any insight would be appreciated,
Are you placing them in mortar or granite? If it's mortar, then it might as well be butter :-#
Stopping cams walking in any scenario is usually just a question of extending them correctly.
If the granite in the cracks is clean and solid (as you might expect for a seawall) and the blocks are securely located (the blocks are secure, cracks aren't expanding) and the cracks aren't too flared or polished then you should be ok. Basically it boils down to judgement. Maybe bounce test a couple of placements from the top rope if you're not sure.
Right, That's good to know! The blocks are very solid, no movement at all.
You would need an absolutely massive amount of leverage force to move them anyway! Some gaps go back quite far into the wall, so my main concern was with loosing the smaller cams from walking too far in. The granite is also quite rough so I don't see them slipping or poping out really.
Oh and with regards to the EA, They have never stopped us top roping or bouldering the lower sections so I'm hoping they will leave us be!
Thanks for the advice, I will use my judgement and test the placements on top rope first!
If you're really in doubt you could drop test the placement with a heavy rucksack full of gear.
Elsewhere on the site
As a long-standing name in the UK rockshoe market, Scarpa have a loyal following and many much-loved models. As a fan... Read more
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more
I am Matthew Phillips, I'm nearly 14 and I was born without my right arm below the elbow. I started climbing at taster... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more