/ Trad protection on a seawall....
Me and my climbing buddy have been top roping on a seawall in our home town for a while now (yes its the best our local climbing has to offer) It's surprisingly quite varied route wise and has a couple of crack lines going up and several other routes too.
I have been eyeing up a long traverse route that you could protect using small cams (DMM 3cu) or maybe tri-cams but I wanted to check that these will work safely in the gaps between the mortar, The wall is made of granite and is obviously very solid being a seawall. Are the cams likely to "walk" more in the gaps?
Any insight would be appreciated,
Are you placing them in mortar or granite? If it's mortar, then it might as well be butter :-#
Stopping cams walking in any scenario is usually just a question of extending them correctly.
If the granite in the cracks is clean and solid (as you might expect for a seawall) and the blocks are securely located (the blocks are secure, cracks aren't expanding) and the cracks aren't too flared or polished then you should be ok. Basically it boils down to judgement. Maybe bounce test a couple of placements from the top rope if you're not sure.
Right, That's good to know! The blocks are very solid, no movement at all.
You would need an absolutely massive amount of leverage force to move them anyway! Some gaps go back quite far into the wall, so my main concern was with loosing the smaller cams from walking too far in. The granite is also quite rough so I don't see them slipping or poping out really.
Oh and with regards to the EA, They have never stopped us top roping or bouldering the lower sections so I'm hoping they will leave us be!
Thanks for the advice, I will use my judgement and test the placements on top rope first!
If you're really in doubt you could drop test the placement with a heavy rucksack full of gear.
Elsewhere on the site
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more
Nikwax’s uncompromising environmental ethos has once again been recognised and rewarded by a trusted authority in... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
Atom Series: Synthetic insulated mid layers AR: All-Round. Significantly warmer and more protective than a fleece hoody, this... Read more
Over the years I've been asked many times about work as a Rope Access technician, often by Instructors and Guides working for... Read more