UKC

Pretty much every video you see or article you read talks about using a GriGri to self belay and I'm aware of route setters using them although backed up on a separate line, but it's something that Petzl really discourage people from doing. Does anyone know why Petzl don't want people self belaying with GriGris?

In reply to jwa: Are you talking about lead belaying or top roping?

Top roping, for example where you tie in to one end of the rope and belay yourself on the other.

In reply to jwa:

Probably because they have other products they want you to buy that do the job better! In all seriousness, have you tried it? It's a bit shit. Much better with a shunt or similar.

Yes I've tried it and it is awkward as you have to keep pulling the slack through which means holding on with one hand. They definitely don't recommend the shunt for self belaying or anything where it might be shock loaded.

In reply to jwa: There are issues with the gri-gri not locking off if not loaded suddenly or the cam being caught or pressed against something preventing it from locking (this is quite possible if the system is loose when moving up and the gri-gri flops around).

In reply to jwa: Like all such systems, there is the chance that it won't lock either because you don't apply enough force when you fall, or because the cam is stopped from moving.

It is a pain to keep moving the rope through it, but less to if the rope is tied off at the top so you are only pulling half as much rope through.

It is very good a holding falls, hence many use it to practice short sections on a dynamic rope and just drop onto it (use a backup knot).

In reply to jwa:
Can't be sure but I think James Pearson was using one to self belay in the video of him working Walk of Life.

In reply to jwa:

Shunt isn't that great for TR self belaying either. But the grigri really sucks for it.

Not sure why the shunt became so popular for that use in the UK, in the US the use of minitrax/ascenders seems more popular.

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/product-experience/self-belay-solo-climbing...

In reply to needvert:

The Americans have voted Arnold Schwartznegger, George Bush (Snr and Jnr), Ronald Reagan, Joe McCarthy and a further endless list into positions of power. What is popular in the USA isn´t particularly better!
I use a Shunt.

In reply to jimtitt:

Sure, but when the French who make your devices agree with them...;P

In reply to needvert:
When I bought mine they agreed with me! That the French are fickle and change their minds often is a national trait I guess
The problem with Mini/Microtraxions is working routes, going back down to do a move again is a pain.