When you say 'tension' are you tying the rope off to something? The usual way is to tie a weight to the end of the rope (like an IKEA bag with the spare rope in it, for example). As you get towards the top, the weight below the shunt increases as you've got the full weight of the hanging rope there - there is no slack
As far as descending is concerned - shunts don't reverse without assistance. You can grab it, which is OK if you are planning to descend, but bad if it's a reflex. Alterntively, tie a single strand (not a loop)of string through the small hole in the lever - hold this string between finger tip and thumb and use it to pull the shunt down - if it all goes wrong you are more likely to lose your grip on this (and so the shunt will lock) than if you have a fistful of the thing
Don't jug up the rope, just lift your leg, wrap the rope round your foot a couple of times and stand up.
I usually extend the shunt slightly with a short sling or dogbone, and use my rack to weight the end of the rope. That is usually enough to ensure it runs okay, I also make sure I have some "escape" kit on my harness which I can use to climb the rope or ab down, ie a reverso a couple of SGs and a sling
Got one of those too and used it for TRS but I think it is considered even less suitable now and can dammage your rope.
I suppose we are talking about advanced techniques so hopefully you can asses the risks if you cant take a partner....
Go and stand in the corner and don't come out until you're a right-thinking person
As in slide down when the lever has weight on it? It's not meant to. If you do want it to release when the lever is weighted, the only real way is to pull down on the body - it's an abrupt release as you transfer the load from the lever to the body
> Go and stand in the corner and don't come out until you're a right-thinking person
What did I say?
just worth bearing in mind that if you were to have an accident you wouldn't get any kind of compensation.
Where are you shunting at? You can't unlock your shunt without either getting your weight off it or by having some 3mm ish cord through the tiny whole on the otherside of the device from where the ropes slot in and pulling hard on this. This method is totally unadvisable unless you have backup.
The reason using the shunt is iffy is because it is possible for it to not lock if you fall down the line of the rope and push the shunt down if your krab doesn't rotate to pulling it down. This nearly happened to me on memory lane which wasn't a good idea. The other essential advice is to knot the rope as you go so that if the shunt does fail it will only slide down as far as the rope.
You wrap the rope around your foot a few times, stand up to unweight the Shunt and then lower into a squatting position. Repeat as nescessary. Prctice makes perfect.
I use a spring loaded Gibbs ascender - similar to your shunt, I guess. But I simply attach it to my harness belay loop with 1.5m of 7mm cord. I pass the cord through the ascender eye and belay loop three times and tie off the tails with an EDK - done. The ascender ends up nice and close to my belay loop. Simple and no 'biner in the mix. I don't care about the naysayers who tell me never to tie anything to the belay loop. (Of course, when I tie into the rope for regular TR or lead, I use the harness tie in points) This has worked for me for over 30 years and hundreds of falls.
If you have some sort of cord over your shoulder and clipped into the shunt it will hold it out in front of you in a good position so it won't sag etc.
Basic rules are not big overhangs, and no traverses really.
Don't forget to shunt with your (overly) full rack or your making it too easy :-)
I am off on monday to try my shunt on a single 10mm rope backed up with a second skinny rope with a ropeman as a backup. my skinny rope is very abraision resistant (and therefore a pain in the ass!) I not sure if my ropeman will work on a 8.8mm rope, but it's only belt and braces. the rope drag may be terrible!
On a more encouraging note about the shunt, i have seen some dude self line right wall on the cromlec with a single full wieght rope and just a shunt! LEGEND!!
I don't understand. That's far less impressive than leading it.
Knots are a terrible idea!!!
> Knots are a terrible idea!!!
Odd response. Please back up?
The shunt is designed to stop you by sliding down the rope which takes the energy out of it and brings you to a halt (hopefully before you hit the ground!) but, if something stops it sliding (such as a knot) it has been shown to bend out of shape and potentially pop off the rope. There is a report on this somewhere but I can't seem to find it atm.
If you want a back up, the best way is with a separate rope IMHO
> The shunt is designed to stop you by sliding down the rope which takes the energy out of it and brings you to a halt (hopefully before you hit the ground!) but, if something stops it sliding (such as a knot) it has been shown to bend out of shape and potentially pop off the rope. There is a report on this somewhere but I can't seem to find it atm.
> If you want a back up, the best way is with a separate rope IMHO
That is not quite so. The Shunt is designed to stop you without slipping. If the force is too high it will slip and while the resistance to slipping will bring you to a stop it isnīt very kind to the rope at all and youīll probably want to buy a new one. In a top-rope fall you are unlikely to have this problem.
Itīs worth noting that the slip values and rope damage are very different depending on whether you use one or two strands.
I use a Shunt on one strand and usually a modded Grigri on the other as this gives redundancy and makes descending later easy.
What's the mod' on the Grigri, mate?
There are a number of ways to modify a Grigri so the rope runs through better mostly used for lead roped soloing but they help with top-rope soloing as well, you might as well use a standard one and pull the rope through occasionally if itīs only as a back-up.
To be honest i don't much like the idea of knots, just choose suitable routes and there's no problems.
Spearing , needs must, you will eventually buy a shunt and realise I'm right , its just how it is.
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