/ Old Alpine Journal article

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davidbeynon - on 13 Nov 2012
Hi,

I'm trying to track down a copy of an article in the 1899 issue of the Alpine Journal. I believe the title is "Mountaineering In Arctic Norway", author is William C. Slingsby.

If anyone has a copy they could photocopy or scan for me I would be very grateful.

Dave
Needle Sports - on 13 Nov 2012
In reply to davidbeynon: If you contact the Alpine Club in London they will photocopy it for you for a small fee.

Are you aware that Slingsby also wrote a book called Norway: The Northern Playground? It's out of print I think but there was a fairly recent paperback edition that you should be able to pick up second hand.

http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Books-Maps-DVDs/Foreign-Climbing-Guides/Europe/Scandinavia-Ice...
davidbeynon - on 13 Nov 2012
In reply to Needle Sports:

I have a copy of the book, and have been studying it fairly intensively over the last couple of weeks. It's excellent, but unfortunately covers a period that ends a few years before the trip I'm interested in.
Ian Archer - on 13 Nov 2012
In reply to davidbeynon:
Hello - I have a copy - I'll scan it tonight and get it out to you
davidbeynon - on 13 Nov 2012
In reply to Ian Archer:

That would be fantastic. Thanks!
davidbeynon - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Ian Archer:

Thanks to Ian for coming up with the goods. It arrived on my doormat this morning. Now to see if he manages to be more or less vague than my guidebooks :)
Dave - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to davidbeynon:

Is it info on the Lyngen area that you are looking for ?
davidbeynon - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Dave:

Yes, I have a trip to lyngen in the fairly advanced planning stages. We have a copy of "Walks and Scrambles in Norway", which has a couple of routes and Peter Lennons "Scandinavian Mountains" which is somewhat vague but contains plenty of leads.

For the Slingsby article I was specifically after information about the exact location of the Hastings couloir on Store Lenangstinden, as I would quite like to have a go at the FA route. Sources so far have told me where it isn't (route in WaSiN), and how much fun Slingsby had on the ascent (plenty) but are silent when it comes to details beyond roughly which side of the mountain it is on.

I think I have it figured out but if I'm right it is a long way around and I might have a job convincing my climbing partners to follow me. :)

If you do have any info or pointers to any guideooks I haven't found yet I would be v interested.
Dave - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to davidbeynon:

Might have some useful info. Are you planning to go winter/spring or summer?
davidbeynon - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Dave:

We are planning to be there for the first 2 weeks of April.
Only a hill - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to davidbeynon:
Can't help with the AJ article I'm afraid, but I'd second the recommendation for "The Northern Playground"--an excellent book.
davidbeynon - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Only a hill:

Ian Archer sent me the AJ article. It has some information, but gets a bit vague when it gets to the part I was really interested in. He does hint that the route is visible from Jaegervasstinden so I may make that the first objective and see what I can see.

The Northern Playground is indeed brilliant, but he doesn't really talk about Lyngen in it. The AJ article seems to be written in the same spirit as the book.
Dave - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to davidbeynon:
> (In reply to Dave)
>
> We are planning to be there for the first 2 weeks of April.

So its ski approaches then. There will most likely be snow down to sea level unless its been unusually warm or a poor snow year. Expect lots of relatively unconsolidated snow, especially high up. Some of the approaches to the peaks you have mentioned are quite long.

Treat the Scandiavian Mountains guidebook with a healthy degree of scepticism. I've found it rather poor and I have been told that most of the route descriptions are secondhand at best. There is no guidebook for climbing in Lyngen that I'm aware of, though there is plenty of information on the web about ski mountaineering routes, by which the majority of ascents are made in the area. Much is in Norwegian but with some useful maps e.g. http://kugo.no/2010/04/store-lenangstinden-1625-moh-3/ and http://kugo.no/2010/04/store-jaeegervasstinden-1543-moh/ might interest you. You might find some ideas here http://www.utpaatur.net/main.php and here http://www.lyngen.name/

I don't know the Hastings couloir and I've got a feeling Lenangstinden is climbed from the other side more frequently. An area with very nice mountaineering potential closer to the road is in Lakselvdalen on Lakselvtinden and Store and Lille Piggtind.

Dave

davidbeynon - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Dave:

We have had "experience" with the Scandinavian mountains guide before. The words "here be dragons" pop into mind whenever I open it. The details are a bit hazy, but involved an epic on a "straightforward grade II" '-)

The kugo page for store Lenangstinden appears to show the same route as the "Walks and Scrambles" guide, which is my plan B if we can't work out the approach for the Hastings route.

I will take a look at Lakselvdalen when I get home. Piggtind is a fine looking mountain!
Dave - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to davidbeynon:


> I will take a look at Lakselvdalen when I get home. Piggtind is a fine looking mountain!

It is, and not at all easy in winter, it's a very fine scramble with a V.Diff ish finish in summer though. Lakselvtinden is also a very fine mountain and there is a nice grade IIish gully to the summit as well as lots of other potential.

davidbeynon - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to Dave: Non mountaineering question.

This pic from your gallery looks a lot like one of the accommodation options I have been looking at near Svensby. Am I right, and if so what's it like?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=36995
ads.ukclimbing.com
davidbeynon - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to davidbeynon:

I meant to put in a link to the place, and write the question in english.

Is the pic the place as this? http://www.toftenlyngen.no/

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