/ Which redpointing draws to get?

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Ali - on 29 Nov 2012
Looking to invest in some redpointing draws - weight not so much a priority (though would be nice if they could be light!), but must be hardwearing with thick tapes. I already have a few shorter draws so probably looking at medium/long ones to start getting a full set.

Had a quick look and it seems to be between the Petzl Spirits and the DMM Alphas, though I can't find anywhere you can get the 25cm spirit draws (just the tapes). I've used spirits before, but not the alphas, and not sure I'm so keen on the karabiners.

So, are these the two leaders or are there others you'd recommend? Has anyone used both, and do you have a preference?
mkean - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to Ali:
I really like the alpha wiregates for trad but I'm not 100% convinced they are the easiest shape to clip the rope to. It feels like you need to reach an extra mile to get them onto a bolt.*


(*probably only 5mm)
Ali - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to mkean: 5mm can feel like a mile sometimes and mean the difference between 'oooo, phew, nice bolt' and 'oh my god, I'm going to take a whipper'... :-)
simonzxr - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to Ali:

Spirits are just about perfect for route working. I use 17cm for all my draws....longer seems a bit unecessary for sport.
lithos on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to Ali:

used both, but not in extremisis.

Harrogate Wall has a couple of lines with alphas and i reckon they ar pretty darn good, v easy to clip (which is redpointing style - not placing the qd) petzl were nice a well but i was onsighting outside with them and not hanging on them

i dont climb hard enough to care really - not much use - sorry
Kevster - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to Ali:
I have alphas, they are fine imo. Not used spirits extensively, though I do have petal tapes ob mine.
Outdoor show bargin last year.
K.
Si dH - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to Ali:
Spirits are great. Alphas are nice and smooth but the shape makes then awkward to strip from steep routes.
kingofthering on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to Ali:

You canīt find a place to buy the 25cm Spirits because there are no 25cm Spirits. Petzl only produces 11 and 17cm.
http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/non-locking-carabiners/spirit-express
In reply to Ali: If anyone does them with fat tapes, don't dismiss the DMM Shadows. I'm very fond of mine and feel in the hand very much like classic Spirits.

Mine are 5 years old and still going strong. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1140
sean1 - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to Ali: For the bolt carabiner the Petzl spirit is the best clipping carabiner. It has stood the test of time, for over 20 years.I have been using these as my clipping carabiner on sport routes for the past 6 years. It is a real workhorse and is the benchmark that others strive for. It is so easy to clip and strip. There are other carabiners that are very good as well made by Dmm and Stubai/austril-alpin but the spirit has the edge. There is a new spirit carabiner/quickdraw that will be released in 2-3 months that will be lighter. For the rope end carabiner there are numerous options that are as equal to each other. This is really a personal feel on clipping the rope, as this is more technical than clipping the bolt. Again the spirit and the heavier constructed carabiners will have a longer life for repeated falls than the lighter weight constructed ones. Another thing to think off is how friendly is the carabiner on your rope which is more expensive to replace and Dmm addresses this well in there line of carabiners.
The Ex-Engineer - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Ali) If anyone does them with fat tapes, don't dismiss the DMM Shadows. I'm very fond of mine and feel in the hand very much like classic Spirits.

I had exactly the same thought recently but I don't think DMM supply Shadows them with the same wide draws they supply with the Alphas.
LukeyG - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Ali: Dmm Aero straight for bolt end, petzl tapes, any big wiregate or bent solid for rope.
turtlespit - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to kingofthering:

You can buy 25cm petzl express extenders/dogbones - http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Slings-Extenders/Extenders/Express-PET...

I use a mix of 12cm, 17cm and 25cm draws for sport climbing, as some of the vertical rock I climb on has features which could have the rope biner sitting on an edge if the wrong length is used.

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