/ R1 Hoody

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Milesy - on 08 Dec 2012
Is the R1 Hoody as good as people say? Are there any cheaper alternatives. The main things I am looking for is

- wont pull up out my harness and salopettes. My current cheap microfleece always rides up and its hard to get back in on route without exposing myself to the elements in the process and losing heat.

- good neck warmth

- thumb loops (even an improvisation) - my wrists are always another achillies heel for me, and if my sleeves ride up my arms while climbing and snow gets in.. brrr.
angry pirate - on 08 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy:
I recently picked up an outdoor research radiant hoody which sounds like it would fit the bill. Plenty long enough to tuck in and I picked it up online for 23 quid in the sale.
Lots of reviews online comparing it to the r1.
My criticism is that it's not uber warm compared to polartec 100 microfleece.
If its really cold I use my me shroud which is way warmer than the radiant but a lot dearer!
Styx - on 08 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy:

Yes, it's the dogs danglies. It's my go to layer during the winter.

At the bottom there's an extra few inches of a lighter weight material that tucks in to your pants and prevents it from riding up.

The balaclava hood fits well, I kinda wish it went slightly higher to cover the nose as well as the mouth but that's my only (albeit minor) gripe.

The thumb loops work well and totally eliminate and cold spots between gloves/jacket by keeping the ends of the fleece inside your glove, again using a slightly lighter weight material to reduce bulk.

The Mountain Equipment Eclipse looks like a good alternative, I've heard good things but I've yet to try one myself.
davy_boy - on 08 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: iv had a mountain hardwear monkey man lite hoody for just over a year which is similar to the r1 and its by far the best thing iv bought use it for everything from climbing, winter climbing, skiing, walking and going to the shops pub etc, has thumb loops a decent hood that fits under my helmet and doesnt ride up at all. couldnt recommend high enough if you can find one at a decent price. theres also a version without the hood which seems more common.
Ben Watts - on 08 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: A class bit of kit! Used for climbing, MTB, running, Nordic skiing, hill walking, layer underneath my motobike jacket -wouldn't be with out it now!
Cameron94 on 08 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: Would the new M.E eclipse top be worth a shot on the R1?
STWright - on 08 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy:

By far the best mid layer, even piece of kit I have ever bought. Very versatile, comfy and super warm for the size. I'm actually wearing it right now after just coming down from Helvellyn. Warm on the climb but breathes really well for the walk out.

Patagonia is expensive but I think it's well worth it and their customer service can only be compared to Arc'teryx - superb.

Hope this helps. Si
In reply to Milesy: BTW don't dismiss the basic R1. You can find them on sale and they are superb mid-layers. Obviously you don't have the hood but you can wear a hat. I got mine ridiculously cheap some years back (30 quid I think) and it has brilliant despite lots of wear.

I'm starting to have second thoughts on thumb loops. They are excellent when you don't have gloves but not always fantastic when you do. I was wearing the Marmot variant jacket ice climbing yesterday and remembered that the thumb loops stop me being able to put certain gloves on. The R1 non-hoody doesn't have them so don't know how Patagonia's are, but the R1 Pullovers long slim sleeves mean I rarely miss not having thumb loops.
bluebealach - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to TobyA: Picked one up on Wednesday from here at this price which I didn't think was too bad!

http://www.themountainfactor.com/shop/product.php?xProd=25176&xSec=6192
steev on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy:

I LOVE my R1 hoody. I do, however, find the thumb loops make my thumbs ache if I use them when winter climbing.
Cameron94 on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: If I wear thumb loops with axes I find the seams make presure points which leave my thumbs sore and tired before they are without them.
In reply to Cameron94 and steev: agree that bad thumb loops can make your hands feel pumped. Not all thumb loops in my experience, and mainly when using with gloves, but definitely experiences similar.

bluebealach - that's where I got mine from, and 50% off too, they were just a bit cheaper back then. Anyway, hope you find yours as good and as great value as mine has been. Mine still looks neat and tidy too despite lots of wear; I still wear as a casual sweater from time to time.
bluebealach - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to TobyA:

> bluebealach - Mine still looks neat and tidy too despite lots of wear; I still wear as a casual sweater from time to time.

Toby, I got the 'cardigan' version about a year ago as they didn't have the jumpers in-stock. I agree, are an awesome piece of kit but the cardigan never quite felt at home on the hill and was better suited to the pub!!



iksander on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: I have had an R1 hoody and found it too warm for, got a Berghaus Smoulder II hoody for 50 and love it. Lowe Alpine stealth hoody, Patagonia cap 4 hoody, MEC t2 also good but not easy to get hold of...
Captain Gear - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy:

I've had a R1 Hoody since 2008 and have worn it on nearly every winter/alpine route I've done since. It is still going strong and is one of my favorite bits of kit. The long body, long arms with thumb loops and balaclava hood eliminate gaps and cold spots.

If you want the ultimate in warmth for winter climbing, combine it with a pair of powerstretch bibs (like these: http://rab.uk.com/products/mens-clothing/fleece/ps-bib.html) and say goodbye to any cold spots.

The hood is excellent and since having it I have never experienced that horrible feeling of spindrift pouring between the gap between your fleece and balaclava.

It's interesting to read the comments about the thumb loops. I wonder if these posters have longer arms than me? I always use the thumb loops as they keep my wrists warm and consequently reduce the number of times I expirence hot aches.

I've recently acquired a ME Eclipse Hoody, which is 1/3 cheaper than the R1 at full retail, 90 compared to 120. I'm yet to use it winter climbing but have been using it a lot for cycle commuting recently.

It is very similar to the R1 Hoody, with a deep front zip, balaclava hood (the one on the Eclipse is even better), long arms with thumb loops and a long body.

However the fabric is quite a bit thinner than the R1, so I would probably want to add a second fleece layer when I started the route.

Also the sizing is a little different. I'd take Medium in an R1, but would be a Large in an Eclipse.

HTH.
thomaspomfrett on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: I absolutely love my R1 hoody, I also wear it for pretty much everything (including pretending to be a ninja). I agree it's pretty pricey but you can usually get it well under RRP (I got mine for 60 in a sale). I think Urban Rock usually have good Patagonia deals:

http://www.urbanrock.com/r1-hoody

Milesy - on 10 Dec 2012
Thanks all. To everyone who has the R1; what size do you have and what weight, height are you? (as a rough buying guide)
Alex Slipchuk on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy:
> Thanks all. To everyone who has the R1; what size do you have and what weight, height are you? (as a rough buying guide)

you can try on my large if you wish. Ps have a shower first. The amount of posts on fb re whisky and buckfast would imply a porous alcoholic aroma ;)
In reply to Milesy: I've got medium in the non-hood version. I'm 176 and 75 kg. I'm pretty broad chested/shouldered and it fits perfectly - no flappyness, but not overly tight either.
iksander on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: 185cm 90kg, size large fitted me well - I was swimming in an XL
ads.ukclimbing.com
Gazlynn - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to iksander:

175cm 86kg :-( large for me.

cheers

Gaz
Alex Slipchuk on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: 6'2" 11st 10lbs size large. Snug
thebigfriendlymoose - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy:

191cm and 62kg and a large fits me - the back and arms are long enough. I have mixed feelings re my R1 hoody. On the one hand, I feel slightly ashamed of myself for spending 90 on a fleecy top, ostensibly similar to something a fraction of the price. On the other hand, the fit is fantastic and it's the base-layer I want to wear every time I go out in cold weather (only it really needing a wash ever stops me). I guess there's little point in owning umpteen lesser garments that aren't fit for purpose?
Milesy - on 10 Dec 2012
Thanks everyone. Cut backs with the baby here so the wifey is getting me a single bit of functional kit for crimbo... I have a few microfleeces etc but the before mentioned problems of riding up above harness, neck and wrists are my common complains every time I am out. I have just got the skytec argon gloves and tested them out - they are brilliant, but the cuff is way to short and only when snow got to my wrists and inside the wrists my hands were suffering. I will gladly take the thumb loops now.
Milesy - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to The Big Man:
> you can try on my large if you wish. Ps have a shower first. The amount of posts on fb re whisky and buckfast would imply a porous alcoholic aroma ;)

Ma mrs says I smell like shite actually lol. Nah a bed of roses.
thomaspomfrett on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: 175 cm, 74kg, medium
JayPee630 - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to thomaspomfrett:

75kg, 5'10". Small, I did buy a medium but it was far too big strangely as I'm usually a medium in everything. But mine's a few years old and the sizing/fit might have changed.
jonnie3430 - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy:

173cm, 75kg and medium. Great top.
nbrowne - on 11 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: Anybody know what the sizings between a ME Shroud and the R1 are like? Are they similar fitting?

I have an old shroud that is a size S - would a S R1 be similar fit?

Niall
mjotad on 11 Dec 2012
> I have an old shroud that is a size S - would a S R1 be similar fit?
>

Yes. I have a shroud and an R1 hoody, both small. They're similar. The R1 might be just a shade snugger.



Milesy - on 29 Dec 2012
My mrs got me the large which is perfect size. Glad I didnt get the medium. Cant wait to try it out :)

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