/ Ice Axe Advice Please!
I basically want a good all rounder that'll do me up to Grade V.
My current thinking is either the new Flys or some second hand new model Quarks.
Any advice on either or other suggestions would be most welcome.
the new flys are £100 each on theoutdoorshop or £110 @ field and trek
Went on sale just after I bought a set. As for what to go for no idea I am new to winter
That said, I do like the look of the new DMM range!
You can get them for £243, if you get Go Outdoor to price match at 10% less than the £135 each they are from the Outdoor Shop http://www.theoutdoorshop.com/showPart.asp?part=PN19526
Or you can get BD Reactors for £240 from the Outdoor Shop http://www.theoutdoorshop.com/showPart.asp?part=PN5322
> You can get them for £243, if you get Go Outdoor to price match at 10% less than the £135 each they are from the Outdoor Shop http://www.theoutdoorshop.com/showPart.asp?part=PN19526
> Or you can get BD Reactors for £240 from the Outdoor Shop http://www.theoutdoorshop.com/showPart.asp?part=PN5322
Or the old flies for £170 pair and have change for some ice screws.
Its difficult. Yes you might want to upgrade in a couple of years. So spend more now, or save your money and see how the flies go?
I have the old flies, they are a great all rounder. Its true I am thinking of upgrading, I will see how this winter goes, but its only my compusive shopping problem, they are
I didn't rate them 10 years ago, have I never rated them since and I do not rate them now. With the exception of Stubai Hornets I cannot think of a single less inspiring ice axe.
They are a mediocre axe for ice routes, they are a pretty poor axe for mixed routes, they are not even a fantastic axe for mountaineering routes and they are not something anyone would choose to take up an alpine North Face.
Quite simply I cannot see a single reason on God's earth to buy them apart from either blinkered loyalty to DMM or that fact you have the imagination of a turnip.
its the same mentality that has people still buying nomics, even after the f*ck ups and stupid redesigns from petzl.
fusions solved all those issues and bettered the nomic blueprint in several other ways - but still 'ooohhhh, nomics, gotta have them'.
OP: whoever suggest reactors, heed that idea. best all rounder out there with the geometry for mixed, the ergonomics for classic alpine and the add-ons for anything you can think of.
cheaper too (at least where i am).
I think flies are limited, I talk about upgrading, the only thing I am bigging up is the price.
But they have stood the test of time, they are ok, for a lot of us punters they fall into the realm if being adequate and good value. If you are able to do a lot of winter stuff that probably isn't enough, but if its the odd weekend each year may be they are enough.
However, I am not really a 'follower of fashion' when it comes to mixed climbing as I'm only now considering upgrading from Vertiges to Aliens ;-)
What he said.
> However, I am not really a 'follower of fashion' when it comes to mixed climbing as I'm only now considering upgrading from Vertiges to Aliens ;-)
i know a museum where they wouldnt notice a pair missing if youre in the market.
its the wizard not the wand....
Thanks for the advice and opinion folks.
I think I'll get Xmas out of the way and have a look for some Quarks.
The upper grip rest of the new quarks is brittle and is breaking regularly in use.
The other gripe if from what I've seen the head metal is very soft like the old quark. It's not a safety issue on my old quarks yet but it does get worn down when mixed climbing.
I've read that sentence about 10 times, and still can't work out what you are trying to say. As you're making a comparison it has to be "worse" not "worst", but then it could mean either were the best or the second from worst.
Despite being a turnip for buying Flies in the first place - where next is still a problem.
The reactors look good and good value, but come with B picks which isn't great in Scotland? There is the new apex and switch. Obviously quarks - but they have a soft head and brittle rests says curleysteveo, vipers at needlesports come in a variety of configurations including a Scottish version. Its hard.
Can't see myself climbing beyond grade 5 so not looking at anything too exotic.
When mixed climbing I still regularly place pitons/warthogs/bulldogs so I want a hammer that will function at least as well as a 600g Vertige (which isn't even that great in the first place). I also want the ability to easily torque both adze and hammer in cracks.
Put these two requirements together and I end up discounting pretty much every modern ice as they all have geometries optimised for steep ice or hooking on overhanging terrain which preclude easy hammering or torquing. Pretty much the only modern technical axe I can't discount on those grounds are Reactors fitted with BD's standard hammer and adze.
It is probably worth mentioning that I am not completely stuck in the dark ages. I've been climbing mixed leashless with Grivel triggers fitted for several years and for ice climbing I bought original Quarks soon after they cam out, which were then replaced with X-Monsters.
However, given how competitive the retail environment is in the UK, I was slightly less impressed with their prices compared to Quarks, Reactors etc..
This is what suits me all round - Reactors, big hammer, adze and jaggy picks (slightly dejagged on top) for Scotland. Skinny picks for ice falls.
Proper leashless, spike. Sane price, and they work.
I've studiously avoided trying the Nomics that belong to Sparrow (of this parish) on the basis that I might like them, when I know perfectly well that I'm perfectly happy with my Reactors. I also know that digging out cracks with a BD adze is a breeze, and a right pain with nothing but a teeny hammer.
So now I'm totally confused!
Quarks or Vipers sound like the way to go.
Bearing in mind I'm a big lad (17 stone).
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