/ How to climb this?

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BarrySW19 on 31 Dec 2012
Wondering if anyone here can throw some ideas in on how I would finish this climb (Blue route - graded 5):

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n125/BarryNL/Blue5_zps0919f94f.jpg

I've got to the position standing with right foot on the circled blue with my left side into the wall (this is about a 10deg slab). Can't see how to make further progress.

Any thoughts?
deanr - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to BarrySW19: where are your hands?
cha1n on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to BarrySW19:

Assuming that you're hands are matched on the hold up and left of the one circled, I guess you'd perform a 'rockover' so your right hand could reach the higher holds (where the rope is overlapping in the photo).
deepsoup - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to cha1n:
Yep, it looks very much like a rockover.
You can't use your hands to pull yourself up, only to help you balance as you move across to get your weight above that right foot and then push up and straighten the leg.
The mistake that people most often make with rockovers is to try to move up too soon, before they've rocked over far enough to put their weight properly over the foot.
BarrySW19 on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to deanr: where are your hands?

My hands are basically free - as it's a slab I can balance on just the right foot and move the hands around. On the other hand, the only other blue I can reach is the sloper behind me on the left (or the two just above my right foot).
The Lemming - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to BarrySW19:

Share both hands on the blue and have your right foot on the lower blue hold. Then reach up with your right hand for the blue.

Either that, or dino for the top.
deanr - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to BarrySW19: instead of standing straight up on your marked hold, can you mantel onto the two big holds to the right, this might then allow you to stand up and get the hand hold on the side wall.

Failing that, maybe a hole has dropped off!
homing-penguin - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to BarrySW19: Splice your genes with a Gecko.
The Lemming - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to The Lemming:

My bad. I though you were trying to reach the marked hold.
Tru - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to BarrySW19:

Looks like you have two options Barry, both of which have already been said.

1) Go left: One hand on far left hold, right foot on circled hold. Move your body weight to the right until your right knee is over your right foot. Then stand up and reach holds covered by the top rope.

2) Go right: This time have your left foot on the circled hold with your right foot smearing. Mantle up on the above two holds (Think getting out of a swimming pool) and this time rock over on your left foot (left knee over left foot. Reach up and grab blue hold on the right.

Give both a go I guess the first option is probably the easiest. Out of interest where is the wall?
BarrySW19 on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Tru: Out of interest where is the wall?

This one's at White Spider in Surbiton.
griffen - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to BarrySW19:

have you tried asking one of the staff there to give you a hand with an idea or two? they're all pretty friendly and helpful.
damo5000 - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to BarrySW19:

Good post this, as a newbie plastic puller myself its great to get some food for thought from the more experienced guys.

BarrySW19 on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to damo5000: Agreed - thanks to all for the ideas.
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JimboWizbo - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to BarrySW19: Next time you're there keep an eye out for someone else doing the move and take note

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