/ Winter tour of Toubkal area??? Advice needed!

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Greenman28 - on 01 Jan 2013
I'm going to be heading to the Atlas Mountains in the very near future and wanted some recommendations to get off the beaten track whilst there. I've read up on logistics concerning getting to Imlil and continuing up to Toubkal but given I've got 7-8 days to play with I'd like to see a bit more of the area.....so

.... what are your recommendations for trekking and easy winter climbing in the area? Is it possible to do a longer tour taking in Toubkal in combination with other peaks in the area, staying at different spots each evening? Will I need a tent to do this or are there other villages/huts? And is it worth getting a guide, not for Toubkal, but maybe useful to organise accommodation as part of the round trip? Or will it just be a case of staying at the Mouflon hut and going out for day trips??

Thanks for any help you can offer!
cousin nick - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Greenman28:

We've not been to Toubkal area yet, but have been further south in the Jebel Sirwa region. In general terms, I would recommend getting a guide. The cost is relatively cheap and you get a lot of local knowledge and guides have their network of contacts for transport, accomodation etc.
Consider some of the trek providers too, eg. KE Adventure - most of their Morrocan trips are very good value for money (No connection, other than very satisfied client).
Morocco is a fascinating and friendly country, wellworthy of exploration.
N.
Iain Thow - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Greenman28: From Imlil cut over to Tachdirt (CAF hut) and do the West Ridge of Anrhemer (I/IIish), something on the huge N face of Akhsoual (over 1000m high with loads of Grade I/II/III stuff, just follow your nose, scramble along the ridge & bumslide back down a suitable gully). Angour is OK too, or a snow plod up the Iguenouane. From the Neltner Hut below Toubkal there are several other goodies, Afella, Akhioud & Binguinoussene have fun I/II ish stuff, with harder possibilities. Ras & Tazaghrart are nice too, as is the scrambly ridge traverse SE of the hut. I got 6 cracking mountain days at Grade II into a 9 day winter trip a few years ago (one day stormed off plus a day between bases and a walk in day).Lovely people too. Have fun.
Iain
Mountain Llama - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Greenman28: Going myself in Feb - using this "mountaineering in the moroccan high atlas" by cicerone as a starter for ideas.

HTH Davey
Sheffield Mick - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Mountain Llama:
> (In reply to Greenman28) Going myself in Feb - using this "mountaineering in the moroccan high atlas" by cicerone as a starter for ideas.
>
> HTH Davey

Des Clark the author of the Cicerone Guide has lots of useful info on www.toubkalmountainguides.blogspot.com
thinbennyboy - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Greenman28: I have spent about a month in the High Atlas both summer and winter last year and I love it! As far as logistics in Morocco don't bother booking anything its all part of the Adventure!And you really will never be stuck. Once in Imilil people will come up to you asking if you need accom, Mules etc. All the stuff I have done has been from the Mouflon hut as its really cheap as long as you barter with them a bit. I think there is some multi day type stuff you can do but I have not done it.The Des Clark book is amazing, I am pretty new to the Winter stuff, but I learnt loads while I was there and I would not bother getting a guide, its cheap but again it takes away a sense of adventure and potential for learning and its a pretty safe place. If you need any more info feel free to message me.
Ben
KennyWright - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to Iain Thow:
This might be a daft question but are there many unclimbed winter lines in the High Atlas? Would it be feasible to go there on a two week trip (if the weather co-operated), find a valley base and climb easy (Scottish grade III) new routes?
Mountain Llama - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to Sheffield Mick: Thanks 4 info Mick.

Cheers Davey
Greenman28 - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Iain Thow:

Thanks for all the info folks, bought the cicerone guide and getting a wish list together, will probably stay around the Tachedirt and Mouflon huts and go from there, can't wait!
Greenman28 - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to KennyWright:
> (In reply to Iain Thow)
> This might be a daft question but are there many unclimbed winter lines in the High Atlas? Would it be feasible to go there on a two week trip (if the weather co-operated), find a valley base and climb easy (Scottish grade III) new routes?

Not daft, but not looking for new routes just areas that aren't heaving and a touch quieter! I am however hoping for good weather.....
In reply to Greenman28: Have you seen the video on youtube? Just happened across it tonight, but the climbing looks great!
clochette - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Sheffield Mick: Another vote for Des's book. For winter trips to Morocco he's definitely your man. He also does excellent guided trips.
tskelhon - on 11 Jan 2013
I've just come back from 3 weeks climbing in the Toubkal valley. We managed to jump on a load of high routes plus a considerable amount of ice climbing.

Other than the tourist routes up Toubkal and Ras, we wouldn't see anyone all day, and this was over Xmas and New year.

Des' cicerone book is an excellent guide, and I thoroughly recommend the Toubkal SE and SW ridges (D- and AD+) especially if the snow is a bit rubbish (no neve whilst we were there). Take a pair of axes and some screws as there is plenty of grade 3/4 ice surrounding the refuges - including that cool waterall from the youtube video!

The mouflon is slightly more expensive than the CAF, but the CAF was heaving and the mouflon has a log fire! And take a good sleeping bag! We walked all of our kit (tent, stove, sleeping bags etc) from Imlil to the refuges - 7 hrs and 1400m ascent - it's bearable, but you can organise mules super easy in Imlil.

If you want any more info, just PM me with your questions. I recently put a blog post up if you want to see what it all looks like at the mo: http://alpinetom.blogspot.co.uk/

thanks, Tom
Mark Handford - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to Greenman28: Mouflon hut all day long! get a room on the 1st floor to benefit from the heat from the fire. tuck shop open each evening to buy essentials and snacks etc. You could go straight up to Mouflon in a day, not recommended though as you will get a bad head from to much height in one day. do an aclimatisation day first and then end up in Imlil for overnight, day 2 go up to refuge, stay overnight then do a day hike to one of the smaller peaks for acclimatisation, night in refuge then next day tackle whichever higher peak you want to do, plenty of big hills up there as well as Jebel Toubkal. Im out there atleast twice a year in winter. have fun.
ti.williams - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to Greenman28:

Get to Imlil and ask for lessain, and do not take the advice of Abdul who works at the refuge there!
We did a seven day trek with lessain beginning at Imlil and ending with an ascent of Toubkal and it was excellent!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Dogbury - on 25 Jan 2013
Just to expand on llama's post here, I climbed Toubkal and Raz with Des Clarke's company this winter. Excellent all round service, a great guide called James and fantastic support from Mohamed. Link to Nomadicmorocco here if this doesn't break any forum rules: http://www.nomadicmorocco.com

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.