/ Anyone been to Diran Peak, Pakistan

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deadpoet - on 04 Jan 2013
Hi guys and happy new year,

I am planning an expedition to Diran peak in Pakistan for the following summer. I have found few agencies from Pakistan that will arrange everything. We are not getting a guide for the mountain and was wondering if anyone here has been to Diran peak to share some information.

Cheers
L.A. on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to deadpoet: Tried it one December in the mid 90s so this will have absolutely no relevance to a summer trip.
We used Jasmine Tours who were pleasant to deal with and did everything that was required of them without any fuss or problem.
KKH was closed by the Mujahedin so we ended up flying up to Gilgit to buy supplies, then a short jeep ride to Minapin village where we arranged porters
People in Minapin were great,really helpful, friendly and good porters for the 2 day walk up to the BC ( insisted we watch Neighbours on the only telly in the village + suggested we come back on a Saturday as that was when Baywatch was on- the longer the trip went on the more that option appealed !)
As far as the trip went, minus 25c and lower at BC was daunting, vast amounts of waist deep unconsolidated snow meant that, what is a 5 hour walk across the glacier to C1 in summer, took us 4 days of really hard slog. Avalanches pouring off Rakaposhi to our right were discouraging,avalanches pouring down the main icefall towards us were a bigger problem though. Fortunately at that point sanity took over and we retreated to the relative 'warmth' of BC
All in all it was genuinely a great trip.Its a fantastic area with good people and appears to be a reasonably safe (in summer) mountain.
Doug Scott has a bit about it in his book Himalayan climber
I think Simon Yates went in summer 2000 he may be able to give you more relevant info on it
Damo on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to L.A.:
> (In reply to deadpoet)
> People in Minapin... insisted we watch Neighbours on the only telly in the village ...

That explains why something as abhorrent as waterboarding is needed to torture the Taliban! :-)

I've only looked at it from afar - Diran that is, not Neighbours - and it looks nice, but I always thought the normal route traversing up diagonally was exposed to lots from above. I know there's been at least one fatal avo there. The north ridge looks better but the description I read sounded pretty hard.

Given the current peak fee structure and proximity to the road, if it is safe then it's a good objective I reckon. Currently expeds are using armed escorts for convoys ISB to Chilas.
Big Lee - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to deadpoet:

Just PM'ed you with some info...
deadpoet - on 04 Jan 2013

Hey L.A.,

thanks very much for the info, I had already contacted Jasmine tours, so I am glad you have had good experience with them.
Did you guys have a guide? do you believe it can be done without a guide on the mountain?I met Simon Yates last summer in the Pamirs so I will definetely ask him. As for the "neighbours" and "Baywatch" maybe I should not introduce them to new soap operas....
Thanks again and enjoy the winter
Big Lee - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to deadpoet:

> do you believe it can be done without a guide on the mountain?

If you are asking the question then you maybe you need a guide??? Particularly with the avalanche risk of Diran.
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L.A. on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to deadpoet: No we didnt have a guide. The route is obvious from BC (seen on Thomas Passmores pics as as grassy area on R)
Just beware the diagonal traverse through the seracs and go quickly ! Maybe contact DesperateDan through these forums as hes got pics of climbing on the N ridge of Diran and take note of the text under the last photo
http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?text=diran&x=0&y=0
Good luck with it.

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