/ alpine grades ?
sure we will do some bolted climbs in our usual style but would also like to climb some peaks.
how do the grades F .PD .ED etc compare to uk grades.or what they like in real terms?
Routes are graded for good conditions and many routes get regraded due to changing conditions such as rockfall / climate etc. So it is important to get up to date information on routes. For example Cosmiques Ridge and Midi Plan used to be graded PD but both get AD now.
F: Simple glacier, snow to 40 degrees, scrambles
PD: Crevassed, short exposed 45-50 degrees slopes, narrow ridges, long rock scrambles and shorter rock routes with some pitches aound Diff but sometimes one or two harder moves
AD: Snow / ice to 55 degrees ( grade 1/2 ) may require belays, sustained narrow ridges, rock scrambling possibly up and down, rock pitches around V. Diff but can be severe or occasional harder move, abseils may be needed
D: Snow / ice to 60 degrees ( grade 2/3 ) long exposed narrow ridges, mixed climbs, rock around Severe possibly VS
TD: Long routes, snow ice to 75 degrees ( grade 3/4 ) with more complex route finding or harder sections, sustained mixed routes or rock routes VS /HVS
ED: Major routes, snow / ice to 90 degrees, long and serious mixed routes perhaps wuth considerable objective danger, sustained rock with HVS / E1 or harder
There are also +/ - for each grade and there can be a big difference in difficulty between them. A pure rock route graded D+ may feel easy in rock boots ( around Hard Severe / VS ) but a route at altitude with big boots / sack and possibly crampons may have short sections of the same grade and feel a lot harder.
( Thanks to Martin Moran / Alpine Club for grade info )
Castle = AD-, Tower = AD, NE Buttress = AD+
trying to find good sites to give plenty of info for the mont blanc area.andi knows guides in cham from when he did his m.i.a.although neither of us have much ice experience we are not idiots on the rock.
I think we need to do some homework!
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