/ Tenerife - HIT LIST

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Rich Jenkin - on 22 Jan 2013
I'm leaving for Tenerife on Friday and the guide book has arrived but there is no star system or anything to give an opinion of the better quality routes!! :(

So if any of you have been and can think of any memorable lines, anything from 5's up to 7a (preferably more technical than powerful as recovering from elbow injury)
that are definitely worth a visit please could you let me know!!


Cheers guys!
Rich


BALD EAGLE - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Rich Jenkin:

Hi Rich
I've been back for just over a couple of weeks having had another great weeks holiday climbing and walking in Tenerife so enjoy!
This UKC article is well worth checking out if you haven't already seen it;
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4410
Obviously Arico is probably the best Sports venue and the UKC logbook has stars to give you an idea of quality:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2374
However if you are feeling adventurous I can highly recommend climbing in the amazing Roques de Garcia, especially the Via Normal on La Catedral, if you like multi-pitch routes in an incredible setting. All the belays are equipped and the cruxes are bolted, though you need a small rack of nuts + a few friends to supplement the bolts. If interested in viewing a short film I made of climbing the Via Normal on La Catedral then use the following link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyiShmjNUHA
No climbing topos for Roques de Garcia are included in the latest Tenerife Escalada guide but those kind folks in Tenerife Outdoor have topos you can view and copy!
Cheers
Dave

Rich Jenkin - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
Cheers Dave, just watched the video and looks amazing up on those 4th and 5th pitches, would definitely be a nice day out thanks for the recommendation!

Quick question tho..
I dont really want to take a second rope with me so do you think I could get away with just using my sport rope and 5 or 6 slings to extend some of the placements?
Or is it it all a bit to all over the place?!

Cheers Rich
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BALD EAGLE - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to Rich Jenkin:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE)
> Cheers Dave, just watched the video and looks amazing up on those 4th and 5th pitches, would definitely be a nice day out thanks for the recommendation!

Thanks for the kind words Rich it was a most excellent outing!

> I dont really want to take a second rope with me so do you think I could get away with just using my sport rope and 5 or 6 slings to extend some of the placements?
> Or is it it all a bit to all over the place?!

The “Via Normal” on the East face of La Catedral gets the sun from about 9.30 in the morning and it is no more than a 10 minute walk from the obvious viewing platform by La Ruleta parking and should take up to 3 hours or so to climb the 5 pitches for a reasonably competent team.
I would defintely recommend 2 ropes and my partner and I used 2 x 60 metre ropes (though 2 x 50's would do). We took a skinny 1 x 60 single (to be also used for Sports climbing) and a 1 x 60 half. The problem is not the length or weaving about of the pitches on Via Normal but the abseil descent.
The abseil descent is pretty obvious down the East face via 2 abseils of about 30M and 45M + a loose scramble (I'll PM you a topo) and you may wish to remain roped up for the scramble descent section.
All the belays are equipped with bolts, so no anchors are required and are on spacious ledges. The cruxs of each pitch are bolted (shown “chapas” on the topo I'll send you). The 2 best + “hardest” pitches are Pitch 2 (a short exposed traverse of about 10M or so) and Pitch 4 (climb up a chimney with a large chockstone then step left (facing in) + climb up the beautiful fluted slab with 3 bolts and the cruxs are no harder than UK 4a/b IMHO.
Hope this helps! :-)
Cheers Dave

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