/ Crampon considerations...
Which is more secure, crampomatic or newmatic style front bindings/bails? I've had both come off, but am starting to think the wire bail is not so clever on well-worn boots, or that it even contributes to the front of the sole unit lifting out? The flip side is that it does seem to set the points further forward.
I never felt that the secondary points on my G14s did all that much, which is one of the reasons I stopped using them on ice - would anyone suggest whether the Lynx or Cyborg are any more convincing in this respect? And what other pros and cons to these models?
All ideas, anecdotes and chat welcome.
The original cyborgs were notoriously bad in that retrospect - I believe BD redesigned them though. How did you managed to lose a newmatic type crampon!?
Er, it fell off. Fortunately I'd just topped out.
G20s look great, but I can't reconcile to the idea of a non-replaceable front-point.
You'd have to be a mixed climbing monster to wear them out in a season, Mine have done 5 long days and show no wear at all. Guess you'd have to consider longevity VS lighness <sounds like you have already> I went for lighness. I'd be happy with 3 seasons all things considered.
I have now used the Petzl Lynx with wire toe bail and centre set monopoint on B3 boots for two seasons without any problens, No issue with looseness.
The only disadvantage that i have found is that the buckle on the strap is fairly small making it very fiddly when wearing gloves, easily surmounted though.
Advantages, you can choose and swap between toe bail or plastic toe cup (sorry cant think of proper name) at any time, meaning that as your boots wear you can adapt the crampons; front points are changeable; adjustable between mono and duo; able to be offset and able to adjust the front point length.
All in all a very satisfied customer.
The best one is the one that fits best.
In this respect, the Lynx is the best option on paper.
However, what really matters is how a particular crampon fits on your particular boot. The nature of the front bail is secondary.
Unlike the BD and Grivel crampons I've got, I can get the Lynx on both mine and my missus boots without recourse to swapping any bits between crampons to get a fit, etc. That doesn't mean it doesn't take some fiddling to get the perfect fit, but it's acheivable.
They're pricey, but I've seen them for Ł165 which isn't that much more than the competetors. On the other hand, if a BD or a Grivel crampon fit your boot, then that's the one to go for.
In what way? Would you care to elaborate? I think I am climbing on the original Cyborgs and I haven't found them particularly bad but then again I haven't climbed on anything else for years so I don't know any different. Would I likely find that I have much better footwork if I change to Lynx's, G20's or similar?
i got 2 seasons/70 days out of my first pair, 2nd pair this season has had about 30 days so far and looking to get about the same.
a mix of about 25% approachs, 50% ice and 25% alpine mixed.
In what way? What crampons were they replacing?
I appreciate that you climb lots of mixed but like you i found it a struggle to climb any ice in my G14s, esp in mono mode.
I still have the g14s but have been using full bale vasaks on ice this year. What a difference, cant tell you how much better they are. Solid, agressive, great secondary points for dropping down on to.
I have gone back to G12 crampons for all general mountaineering and for ice climbing. The mono point G14's just come out for harder mixed stuff (they have not been used at all this year).
You will of course have noticed the two front point holes rather than one when copying my route choice all last week :-)
Ooop. Sorry Toby/Jamie.
I meant Sarkens.
The new Sarkens do look good. I like the look of those front points. I believe Petzl have beefed the metal up a bit, due to a few reported failures?
Out of interest, how have you found them on hardish Scottish gullies and mixed, need much filing to keep them sharp ish?
Were you using them in mono or dual mode?
Dek. I ve not used them on mixed but have used them on smiths gully and kings ransom recently. I felt more stable on them than on much easier stuff in g14s. The points still very sharp and the amount of bite is pretty incredible.
i have an almost new pair of Grivel Rambo evo 4's i will do you cheap if your interested? :D
Absoulutely, when I first got my terminators I discovered exactly the same - you can be slightly "duck footed" for the front point to be sticking out the front of boot. Much much more comfy a stance particularly on narrow pillars I've found. Have stuck with Terminators for 12 years now! Always tempted by fancy new light things (Darts, G20s etc) but the Terminators keep on truckin' and doing it well!
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