In reply to Dave Searle: Hi Dave, impressive stuff; we're heading out in a couple of weeks and intend to climb the courtes, we've got ski mountaineering tackle but will probably leave them at the base of the route, what descent would you recommend on foot, returning to the argentiere glacier, cheers
In reply to Dave Searle: The best descent is the northeast slope. This involves an exposed but straightforward descending ridge from the summit, and then, from the top of the obvious broad couloir, about 800m of steadily descending snow slope at the sort of angle where you will want to face in, but probably not rope up. Just be careful and don't trip up. Towards the bottom there will be the usual bergschrunds. Best to abseil over it/them. There are good rock anchors on the true left bank (right hand side facing in). After that you are down. Easy flat glacier back to the hut.